250m, 6 pitches. Starts as for Passchendale at the upper main cliff above the pre-amble, taking either start to gain the ramp.

125m Pre-amble as Passchendale.

1. 60m (4) Follow the obvious turfy grooves trending rightwards to a ramp going right & then up. Quite a bold pitch & a poor belay on frozen turf. The steeper groove on the right provides a harder alternative to gain the ramp.
2. 60m (4) Follow the line of turfy grooves & ledges directly above to an ancient (Great War?!) in situ belay which can be backed up. Spaced but good gear. (The more rightward trending grooves you could be aiming for may be unattainable!)
3. 60m (5) Climb directly above the belay & then traverse 5m right to the bottom of the chimney/groove. Well protected but difficult moves over a chockstone & another steep move above that lead to a bay & easy climbing to the ridge.
4. 40m (1) Easily to the top.

Chris Ayres & Len Lovatt 16/Feb/1990


ClimberDateStyle
Rob Pitt 06/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Lee Roberts
Cardi 07/Dec/10 2nd

& Tom L. Very turfy and very bold! Got dark on top pitch!

with Tom R
Tom Livingstone 07/Dec/10 2nd O/S
david morse 03/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Sustained, final chimney tech 6? a brilliant route

with chris+lole
Hidden 03/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
phil64 30/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

superb climbing..... as good as the sticil face

with tim neill
geoff b 09/Jan/10 AltLd

Lots of snow on the route made this heavy going, whilst the lack of an accurate topo or description at the time also exacerbated route finding. Scary at times on the lower pitches but well protected on the harder higher pitches, if memory serves!

Hidden 09/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Voting
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