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|Gwynedd > Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders) >
|Passchendale Direct|| V 5|
|250m, 6 pitches. Starts as for Passchendale at the upper main cliff above the pre-amble, taking either start to gain the ramp.
125m Pre-amble as Passchendale.
1. 60m (4) Follow the obvious turfy grooves trending rightwards to a ramp going right & then up. Quite a bold pitch & a poor belay on frozen turf. The steeper groove on the right provides a harder alternative to gain the ramp.
2. 60m (4) Follow the line of turfy grooves & ledges directly above to an ancient (Great War?!) in situ belay which can be backed up. Spaced but good gear. (The more rightward trending grooves you could be aiming for may be unattainable!)
3. 60m (5) Climb directly above the belay & then traverse 5m right to the bottom of the chimney/groove. Well protected but difficult moves over a chockstone & another steep move above that lead to a bay & easy climbing to the ridge.
4. 40m (1) Easily to the top.|
Chris Ayres & Len Lovatt 16/Feb/1990
This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
Rob Pitt - AltLd O/S - 06/Jan/11 with Lee Roberts
& Tom L. Very turfy and very bold! Got dark on top pitch!
Cardi - 2nd - 07/Dec/10 with Tom R
Tom Livingstone - 2nd O/S - 07/Dec/10 with Gareth James, Tom Ripley
Sustained, final chimney tech 6? a brilliant route
david morse - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/10 with chris+lole
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/10
superb climbing..... as good as the sticil face
phil64 - AltLd O/S - 30/Nov/10 with tim neill