Restricted Access
Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.
Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place. Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge. This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season.
Rockfax Description
A varied climb up the centre of the west facing wall, starting at a groove/ramp just right of Giantslayer. Well protected.
1) 6a, 20m. Ascend the ramp to its top (peg). Make tricky moves to start the crack out right which leads strenuously to a ledge.
2) 5c, 10m. Climb another ramp up left (peg) then pull direct over an exposed bulge to easier ground. Stake belay.
FF. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 28.8.1983 © Rockfax
FA. Kevin Turner, Nick Buckley 1980. FFA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 28.8.83.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| matt perks | 14 Dec, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Perhaps only E3 but the gear on the first pitch that protects the crux is quite fiddly and strenuous to place properly. The peg on the top pitch is not in good condition and, although there is some stuff to back it up the rock is quite soft, so I don't recommend falling off the steep moves over the bulge. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Perhaps only E3 but the gear on the first pitch that protects the crux is quite fiddly and strenuous to place properly. The peg on the top pitch is not in good condition and, although there is some stuff to back it up the rock is quite soft, so I don't recommend falling off the steep moves over the bulge. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blackers Hole
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Crystal Voyager 2
Grade: E4 6a ***
(The Promenade)