Restricted Access
Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.
Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place. Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge. This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season.
Rockfax Description
Good exposed climbing up the right-hand arete of the west face, spoilt by some poor rock. A rope for the finish should be pre-placed. Climb a bulging crack on the seaward side, then move onto the arete. Step right, level with a ramp on the left, and follow the arete past a bulge and crack to easier but loose ground. © Rockfax
FA. John Williams, Pete Oxley 21/Apr/1988.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| matt perks | 14 Dec, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Something funny has happened here as this is not the description for Cosa Nostra. Cosa Nostra has a hard start, then an easy bit, then a steep, pumpy crack to finish, which suffers from a bit of looseness that affects the quality of the gear but doesn't make much difference to the actual climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Something funny has happened here as this is not the description for Cosa Nostra. Cosa Nostra has a hard start, then an easy bit, then a steep, pumpy crack to finish, which suffers from a bit of looseness that affects the quality of the gear but doesn't make much difference to the actual climbing. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blackers Hole
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Tudor Rose
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Guillemot Ledge)