UKC
300m. Climbs the prominant ridge to the right of Gastronomes Gully in seven good pitches, starting in the snow bay to the right of Gastronomes Gully direct start icefall. The corner above this leads over chockstones and into a bay, following the same line. This in turn leads to an ice chimney and then heads up left to the edge overlooking Gastronomes Gully. The climb then moves up and right to a notch on the skyline beofre taking a final pitch up another steep section. Easy ground then leads to the top (not included in length). Perfect conditions on this ascent with good belays and runners and very well frozen. May well be harder under less good or snowy ones.

Neil Wilson and John Mackenzie 24/Jan/2010.

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Slick Ops '22 - Stars only

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Route of Interest
Top of Penguin Gully III
Penguin Gully

Grade: III 4 ***
(Beinn Dearg)

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