UKC

170m, 6 pitches. The Pumprisse (Pump Cracks) was the first route in the eastern Alps to be graded UIAA VII, after years in which the scale had been closed-ended with a highest grade of VI. The route starts 100m up the Fleischbank Pillar to the right of the main east face and climbs a succession of steep wide cracks, many of which can only be protected, if at all, with Camalot 6s. The start can be reached via the first three pitches of the Rebitsch/Spiegl (not the same route as the Rebitsch/Spiegl on the main east face) or by the Brandler Start.

The first ascensionists requested that the route should remain bolt- and peg-free. A few pegs have been added, but no bolts, and most of the climbing must still be protected by natural means.

The Pumprisse enjoys something of the same reputation as a Whillans E2, and
while it has kept its guidebook grade of VII it is considered harder.

Helmut Kiene, Reinhard Karl 1977.

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Route of Interest
Nordverschneidung

Grade: VII ***
(Laliderer Spitze)

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