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Dorset > Guillemot Ledge >
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| Fly Crazy But Free |  E5 6b |
Adjacent Climbs
<< Oceanid |
Warlord >> |
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50m, 2 pitches. Technical and pumpy climbing blasting up the white face just right of Oceanid pitch 2. An airily-positioned top pitch that is high in the grade.
1) 5a, 20m. As for Oceanid.
2) 6b, 30m. Climb diagonally left then back right, above an overhang, to a small ledge (peg). Swing left and pass a niche to ascend twin cracks above. A hard move on the left gains a good horizontal break. Continue up the technical, leaning headwall (2 pegs) to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Martin Crocker, D.Light 26.9.83 26/Sep/1983
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This climb is in 4 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.
Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Feb/12
E6 to O/S i reckon. E2 up to some good gear, pull out left for the crux, then sustained 6a up the head wall which is hard to read because there are loads of red herring holds. Fell off (onto insitu peg) just beneath last peg and good hold. So close. F7b.
Alex Mason - Lead dog - 13/Aug/10 with Mikey G
Felt E6 for sure, bearing in mind grading is for the onsight - crux is tough and you dont have time on the headwall to hang around and figure out a sequence. Lacking the stamina to onsight this kinda route at the moment!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead dog - 13/Aug/10 with alex mason
Rob Kennard - 2007
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mike Goldthorp |
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