48m, 2 pitches.
Serious technical climbing on spaced gear and despite cleaning in 2015 there is an ever-present risk of loose rock. Route finding is baffling but rewards patience. Ideally take cams and hand-placed pegs (or tricams) for boreholes and pre-place a belay rope if your ropes are shorter than 60m.
Climb to the second hole, then traverse left into the groove proper. Technical zig-zagging enables height to be gained to a goal of two boreholes in the white wall, one above the other. The second one has an excellent thread. Make a slightly rising traverse 5m leftwards to ledges, then boldly climb the rib beside the red corner, before moving right to gear behind a white inset block. Follow a crack direct to the overhang and climb it with difficulty just right of its widest point to a good crack (cams). Bear right across the top of a steep corner to a hollow sounding flake in a corner which is gently caressed en-route to good gear cracks in the final corner.
Ed Grindley & Pat Littlejohn (AL) 25/Oct/1970