Rockfax Description
A great top pitch up the leaning white headwall at its highest point. Start on the huge boulders right of the sea cave.
1) 5a, 20m. As for Oceanid.
2) 6a, 24m. Move diagonally left, then back rightwards above an overhang to a small ledge and a peg. Follow the tapering crack above, past a large wedged cornflake, to fingery moves that gain the final, slightly broken wall. The crack has many rusty pegs in place but a number have narrow eyes, so some narrow-nosed karabiners will be found useful to clip them. © Rockfax
FA. Brian Snell, Keith Knight (aided) 21.2.1976. FFA. Steve Monks, Steve Findlay 28.11.1981.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes , Swanage wild pumpfests , UK Lonely Leads , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| TonyM | 12 Dec, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Had a similar experience to Matt yesterday. Never 6a, just very sustained at 5c. Wish I'd known about the peg eyes - they didn't like my modern lightwt hot forged krabs much! Top out is absolutely fine. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Had a similar experience to Matt yesterday. Never 6a, just very sustained at 5c. Wish I'd known about the peg eyes - they didn't like my modern lightwt hot forged krabs much! Top out is absolutely fine. |
||||
| matt perks | 22 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I think the hard bit on the second pitch is only 5c but had to rest anyway because by the time I got there I was pumped stupid. Comment about small peg eyes is accurate, though they're not ridiculously small. There are a couple of loose flakes on this pitch but nothing to worry about. The top-out is not bad for Swanage - requires care but it's not bad. First pitch is a bit friable but there is gear and it's not hard. Very good overall. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I think the hard bit on the second pitch is only 5c but had to rest anyway because by the time I got there I was pumped stupid. Comment about small peg eyes is accurate, though they're not ridiculously small. There are a couple of loose flakes on this pitch but nothing to worry about. The top-out is not bad for Swanage - requires care but it's not bad. First pitch is a bit friable but there is gear and it's not hard. Very good overall. |
||||
| doylo | 29 Aug, 2001 |
Show βeta
βeta: Sandbag for 5c! Otherwise ok. Ace top pitch! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Sandbag for 5c! Otherwise ok. Ace top pitch! |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Guillemot Ledge
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Bare Reputation
Grade: E4 6b ***
(Cave Hole)