Warlord*** E4 6a
45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great top pitch that heads up the leaning white headwall at its highest point. Start on the huge boulders right of the sea cave.
1) 5a, 20m. As for Oceanid.
2) 6a, 24m. Move diagonally left, then back rightwards above an overhang to a small ledge and a peg. Follow the tapering crack above, past a large, wedged cornflake, to fingery moves that gain the final, slightly broken wall. Belay on fence posts. The crack has lots of pegs insitu, however some of them have very narrow eyes, so some narrow-nosed karabiners will be found useful to clip them. © ROCKFAX

FA. Brian Snell, Keith Knight 21.2.76 (aided). FFA. Steve Monks, Steve Findlay 28.11.81. 21/Feb/1976

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Swanage wild pumpfests, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

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This climb is in 38 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

ian bryant - 2015

Awesome top pitch. Struggled on it and rested several times. Top section was confusing, think I needed to step right to some finger jams, but had to unclip a peg on the left. Was all over the place as a result. Very loose top out - beware!
julesmckim - AltLd - 31/Oct/14 with Rob Smart

Top roped second pitch clean
Sophie Nunn - TR - 19/Aug/13 with Richard

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead - Aug/13 with Mal Scott

ianto - 2013

Marti999 - Lead dog - 04/Oct/12 with Debbie

debbie roberts - 2nd - 04/Oct/12 with Marti999

At last! Fourth time lucky. Quite hard. Spectre krabs fine for pegs.
Ed Babs - Lead RP - 30/Sep/12 with AlexD

AlexD - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/12 with Ed

AlexD - 2nd dog - 21/Aug/12 with Ed

A really disappointing effort on this. Totally underestimated my weediness from weeks of disjointed climbing during the recent monsoon and ran out of strength and quick-draws below the top. Took a rest to recover my arms and to sort out my gear before finishing in very unsatisactory style. A fantastic route and brilliant setting but just a pity I didn't leave it for another day!
KRB - Lead - 01/Aug/12 with Oliver Bridges

Pegs ok, and back up-able.
pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 22/Nov/11

Sophie Nunn - 2nd dog - 04/Oct/11 with Toby

Awesome, though i thought that facedancin' was better. Fine to do in one pitch, but take a lot of draws. Take care with the top!
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11 with Sophie Nunn

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/11

Surely the E3 vote is a joke, or has it lost holds. Felt hard for E4, some big blind moves near the top. Good butch climbing with some suspect rock.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10 with Mikey G

dan gibson - Lead RP - 02/Aug/09 with jacquie robinson

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Aug/09

TiffTiff - 2nd dog - 31/Jan/09 with Felix

Awesome route. Didn't clip any of the pegs on p2 mainly because i only had one quick draw left but there is good gear directly before and after the crux. I'd read comments hear, so i was surprised to find the crux felt every bit of 6a, i'll blame cold fingers but it could equally have been down to a bad sequence.
feilx - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/09 with Tiff

Hidden - Lead - 28/Sep/08

i lead 1st pitch clean, pep led second, i fell crux of second, hard
tonanf - AltLd dog - Aug/07 with Pep

Hidden - Lead - Oct/06

Bern - 2006

Tim M - Lead dog - 2000

Tim M - Lead dog - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Roget - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/98 with jon

Southern Mark Smith - Lead O/S - 1998

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/95

Robmwatt - 1994

keefe - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/92 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 31/Aug/92 with keefe

steve taylor - Lead dog - Aug/92 with Rich Brookes

Approx date
Nigel Coe - 1990 with Tim Dunsby, Ray Mardon

Very good
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1988 with Richard Newey

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

I have to admit I, err, encouraged Chris to lead me up this monster, but he wasn't exactly reluctant and cruised up it. I had to have a tight rope on the top section due to wimpy forearms.
barny - 2nd dog - 1980 with Chris Massey

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
quiffhanger, Justin T, Ian Jones, Kyuzo

Total votes cast 41
hard E50 of 16
E50 of 16
easy E50 of 16
hard E45 of 16
E49 of 16
easy E40 of 16
hard E32 of 16
E30 of 16
easy E30 of 16
hard 6b0 of 9
6b0 of 9
easy 6b0 of 9
hard 6a2 of 9
6a2 of 9
easy 6a2 of 9
hard 5c3 of 9
5c0 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
3 Stars13 of 16
2 Stars3 of 16
1 Star0 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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