Vikings** E4 6a
50m, 3 pitches. Three fine pitches right of Warlord. Technical and sustained with small wires essential. Start 20m right of Oceanid at two converging cracks. The finish to the top pitch needs care. 1) 5a, 22m. Climb halfway up the right-hand crack, then step left into a scoop. Ascend a short corner to a slab, then traverse along until is possible to reach the higher slab (peg). Continue left to the belay on Oceanid. Friable rock. 2) 5c, 10m. Trend right to the roof (large cam) then move over this. Undercut right along the lip then move up to belay (peg) below a short corner in the next roof. 3) 6a, 20m. Gain a corner and pull over the roof onto a narrow ledge (peg). Climb the wall just right (bold) to a rest in a flake-crack, then tackle the steep white wall on the left. © ROCKFAX
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 21/Aug/1983

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 16 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

ianto - 2013

Quite nervy to second due to long traverse on 1st pitch, also a traversey bit on the 2nd pitch.
nickdonohue - 2nd - Sep/12 with Frank ?, Ian Bryant

Seconded this in 2009, as my first proper trad experience. Felt great to get back on it for the lead! Can't claim the onsight, but it wasn't much help as i misremembered where i was meant to go and ended up on the top face for two hours trying to force a direct line through hard ground above a dodgy peg and a nest of shallow microwires. Bumped the loose block off and all, knocked it with my foot! What a punter. Still a big loose flake above the second roof to watch out for. Wont hit the belay if it comes off, and you dont need to go near it, but dont try to put gear behind it or you'll likely get hurt. When I gave up with my mis-remembered beta and followed the natural line, it gave brilliant climbing that didn't disappoint! A genuinely very worthwhile route. Classic Swanage esoterica at the start and finish, a glorious sequence through the upper roof, and really good climbing on the top face with just enough gear uncertainty to keep you focussed. No point doing this in three pitches. Running the top two pitches together makes more sense, safer for the second (not under any loose rock) and there are no issues with rope drag to worry about.
jacobjlloyd - Lead β - 22/Jan/12 with Jenni

Hidden - 2nd dog - 22/Jan/12

feilx - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/09 with Jake

jacobjlloyd - 2nd dog - 28/Feb/09 with Felix

Hidden - Lead - 28/Sep/08

Bern - 2006

ellis - AltLd O/S - Sep/00 with Pete Collins

Tim M - 2nd - 2000

Richard White - Lead O/S - 1998 with Matt King

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/95

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

jasper11 - 1994

keefe - 1990

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Voting
Total votes cast 18
hard E50 of 6
E50 of 6
easy E50 of 6
hard E44 of 6
E42 of 6
easy E40 of 6
hard E30 of 6
E30 of 6
easy E30 of 6
hard 6b0 of 6
6b0 of 6
easy 6b0 of 6
hard 6a0 of 6
6a4 of 6
easy 6a2 of 6
hard 5c0 of 6
5c0 of 6
easy 5c0 of 6
3 Stars2 of 6
2 Stars2 of 6
1 Star2 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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