Reachy through the two rooves and on top wall. Quality though!
AlexD - 2nd dog - 25/Oct/14 with Ed
Great. First pitch much more enjoyable than expected. The second and third pitches are excellent. Ran them together as suggested below. Tried to go straight up the head wall for a while before I remembered the guidebook description. Doh.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/14 with AlexD
ianto - 2013
Quite nervy to second due to long traverse on 1st pitch, also a traversey bit on the 2nd pitch.
nickdonohue - 2nd - Sep/12 with Frank ?, Ian Bryant
Seconded this in 2009, as my first proper trad experience. Felt great to get back on it for the lead! Can't claim the onsight, but it wasn't much help as i misremembered where i was meant to go and ended up on the top face for two hours trying to force a direct line through hard ground above a dodgy peg and a nest of shallow microwires. Bumped the loose block off and all, knocked it with my foot! What a punter. Still a big loose flake above the second roof to watch out for. Wont hit the belay if it comes off, and you dont need to go near it, but dont try to put gear behind it or you'll likely get hurt. When I gave up with my mis-remembered beta and followed the natural line, it gave brilliant climbing that didn't disappoint! A genuinely very worthwhile route. Classic Swanage esoterica at the start and finish, a glorious sequence through the upper roof, and really good climbing on the top face with just enough gear uncertainty to keep you focussed.
No point doing this in three pitches. Running the top two pitches together makes more sense, safer for the second (not under any loose rock) and there are no issues with rope drag to worry about.
jacobjlloyd - Lead β - 22/Jan/12 with Jenni
Hidden - 2nd dog - 22/Jan/12
feilx - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/09 with Jake
jacobjlloyd - 2nd dog - 28/Feb/09 with Felix
Hidden - Lead - 28/Sep/08
Bern - 2006
ellis - AltLd O/S - Sep/00 with Pete Collins
Tim M - 2nd - 2000
Richard White - Lead O/S - 1998 with Matt King
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/95
Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe
jasper11 - 1994
keefe - 1990
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc