50m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Three fine pitches right of Warlord. Technical and sustained with small wires essential. Start 20m right of Oceanid at two converging cracks. The finish to the top pitch needs care.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb halfway up the right-hand crack, then step left into a scoop. Ascend a short corner to a slab, then traverse along until is possible to reach the higher slab (peg). Continue left to the belay on Oceanid. Friable rock.
2) 5c, 10m. Trend right to the roof (large cam) then move over this. Undercut right along the lip then move up to belay (peg) below a short corner in the next roof.
3) 6a, 20m. Gain a corner and pull over the roof onto a narrow ledge (peg). Climb the wall just right (bold) to a rest in a flake-crack, then tackle the steep white wall on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 21/Aug/1983

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

WB 31/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy M
AlexD 25/Oct/14 2nd dog

Reachy through the two rooves and on top wall. Quality though!

with Ed
Ed Babs 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Great. First pitch much more enjoyable than expected. The second and third pitches are excellent. Ran them together as suggested below. Tried to go straight up the head wall for a while before I remembered the guidebook description. Doh.

with AlexD
ianto ??/2013 -
nickdonohue ?/Sep/12 2nd

Quite nervy to second due to long traverse on 1st pitch, also a traversey bit on the 2nd pitch.

with Frank ?, Ian Bryant
jacobjlloyd 22/Jan/12 Lead β

Seconded this in 2009, as my first proper trad experience. Felt great to get back on it for the lead! Can't claim the onsight, but it wasn't much help as i misremembered where i was meant to go and ended up on the top face for two hours trying to force a direct line through hard ground above a dodgy peg and a nest of shallow microwires. Bumped the loose block off and all, knocked it with my foot! What a punter. Still a big loose flake above the second roof to watch out for. Wont hit the belay if it comes off, and you dont need to go near it, but dont try to put gear behind it or you'll likely get hurt. When I gave up with my mis-remembered beta and followed the natural line, it gave brilliant climbing that didn't disappoint! A genuinely very worthwhile route. Classic Swanage esoterica at the start and finish, a glorious sequence through the upper roof, and really good climbing on the top face with just enough gear uncertainty to keep you focussed. No point doing this in three pitches. Running the top two pitches together makes more sense, safer for the second (not under any loose rock) and there are no issues with rope drag to worry about.

with Jenni
Hidden 22/Jan/12 2nd dog
feilx 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 28/Feb/09 2nd dog
with Felix
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead
Bern ??/2006 -
ellis ?/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
with Pete Collins
Tim M ??/2000 2nd
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
Robmwatt ??/1994 -
keefe ??/1990 -
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 7
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set