Dorset > Guillemot Ledge >
 
Sapphire** E1 5b

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The Spook >>
30m, 2 pitches. A much-attempted route that features a spectacular and powerful top pitch. Start beneath a huge rectangular depression that meets the overhangs at the fault-line. 1) 4b, 18m. From right of the low overhangs, move leftwards above them and climb the steady wall, with little in the way of gear, to a thread and nut belay in the rectangular depression. 2) 5b, 16m. Gain the fault-line beneath the overhang and move left to an arete (large cam useful). Pull over the roof (2 pegs) to reach the next roofs. Traverse rightwards underneath these and finish up a crack, past a bulge to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. G.Smith, K.Winkworth 03/Apr/1972

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 115 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Intended to do it in one pitch, got to the first roof, but could not arrange the gear I'd be happy with to commit to the step onto the arete. Got lowered back to the sentry box and brought Graham up for moral support. Went up again, this time with a bit more resolve. All good, but traversed too far left and had to abandon a wire and a sling to be able to reverse back to under the crux. From there on all went fine, just a few strenuous pulls on good holds. Not my best performance.
Kirill - Lead - 30/Mar/14 with Berta Lopez, Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/14

Fell after clipping the peg past the crux, too pumped. The crux section is too sandy. (Also, don't climb trad with new shoes till they soften)
I_hang_dog - Lead dog - 29/Sep/13

very sandy and a bit greasy
Martin Bagshaw - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Ian Pegg

Matthew Robinson - AltLd dnf - 26/Jul/13 with Joe

Dusty bottom half, greasy upper half (although it might be OK with a bit of chalk).
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/13 with alex malins

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/13

P2. Sandy. Moves to the arete felt insecure because of the sand on all the holds. Found good small gear in the roof (by the rusted peg), then you can reach through to a good (looking) peg. Enjoyable crux moves. Second crux was fun and well-protected too. An enjoyable steep route. Well done to Colin for P1 with one piece of gear :)
ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Colin Peck, Nadir Khan

Led P2 after backing off two years ago. Move left under the roof still feels committing.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 01/Jun/13 with Lawrence Dudley

Georgia H - 2nd - Jun/13

Led P2 went a little off route after pulling through but what can you do? Read the guidebook I guess.
Edward Hastrop - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/13 with Roger Kirke

Fell when a rock broke off.
Roger Kirke - AltLd - 30/Apr/13 with Edward Hastrop

ianto - 2013

in 1 pitch , easy for e1 and mostly solid apart from the very top
misterb - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/12 with justin

Justin T - 2nd - 02/Dec/12 with Nick B

Kevster - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/12 with Tony

tonevert - 2nd - 30/Sep/12

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/12

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/12 with josh cooper

Rained off The Heat, led second pitch of Spooks, but not much left in the arms on day 2 of the annual outing!
ellis - 2nd rpt - 02/Sep/12 with Tom Holdsworth, Tom Bridgeland

jcook1980 - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/12 with Dan Moore

Not much peg left take big cam
LukeyG - Lead - 23/May/12

P2 Needed the guns. Great route.
paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 17/May/12 with Will I Am

3 Names - Lead O/S - 17/May/12 with Ed Bulman

will moy - AltLd O/S - 16/May/12 with paul taylor

Beta warning - there is a lot of gear under the roof but you need to extend it massively to get around the roof. the break is sandy and damp and although the move onto the arete is quite easy it is insecure. i slipped trying to back climb to a rest having placed gear. i ended up lobbing about 6m to land below the belayer and just missing the ledge. felt like a lucky escape. having a really big cam would help avoid this risk
Mark Warnett - Lead dog - May/12

Hidden - AltLd dog - 24/Apr/12

Simon Allcock - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/12 with Wilki

Had a good faff moving onto the arete once i got there and discovered a lack of gear and slightly damp, sandy holds. Once i committed tho it was easier than i thought and had satisfying exposure.
Alan100 - AltLd - 22/Jan/12

Led first pitch Alan Second. 1st Peg below roof in 2nd pitch totally knackered now.
Dave89 - AltLd - 22/Jan/12 with Fat Al

PAJames - 2012

sparkass - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11 with Gary Wood

mikeyjbs - 2nd β - 01/Oct/11 with Roger Hamilton-Smith

One rest on a very hot day
riddle - Lead dog - 01/Oct/11 with Mike Stephenson

dswansonlow - 2nd - 02/Aug/11 with John Tanner

John Tanner - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/11 with Dougie Swanson-Low

RD P1
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/11 with Patrick

james.pilbeam - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/11

Led P1. Shook myself up leading the first pitch, and backed off the second. Awkward moves under the roof to gain the slab above the arete.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Sophie Nunn, Brian Watson

led 2nd pitch
Sophie Nunn - AltLd rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Alan, Brian

brian watson - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Sophie Nunn

lead first pitch, came off on pitch 2
uncontrollable - AltLd dog - 09/Apr/11 with Daj

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/11

al99 - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - 2nd - 02/Apr/11 with Al Benson

AlexD - 2nd - 08/Nov/10 with Sophie

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 08/Nov/10 with Alex

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10

jtree03 - Lead - 15/Aug/10 with dazza

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10

Had been intimidated by this route for years for no good reason. Not particularly hard for Swanage E1 (felt easier than The Spook) and pretty safe on whole with great exposure on the steep bits. I received a good tip to rack a friend 4 to back up the first (and worst) of the three pegs without which the sandy traverse under main roof would be quite scary. 2 pegs above in reasonable condition, a decent breather then an easier-than-expected juggy romp through the upper bulge. Pitch 1 is one to let your mate lead - thanks Andy!
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Andy G

Excellent climb
manwithacam - 2nd - 18/Jul/10 with Mike R

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/10 with Emma Hawkins, Clio Jameson

Clee - 2nd - 20/Jun/10 with Steve

led 1st pitch
breed - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Ellis Bird

Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with tommy

Bern - Lead rpt - 07/Mar/10 with Richard White

tscoobydoo - AltLd O/S - Mar/10 with phillip belcher

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Feb/10

colkurtz - AltLd - 07/Feb/10 with Robb

Lead first pitch - not really an E1 pitch, but a pleasant warm-up. Second pitch was tricky approaching the crux. Would recommend replacement of the peg underneath the roof. Failed to remove David's cam from the roof and the RP next to the peg. David later abseiled down to retrieve the gear but had to abandon the cam.
petecallaghan - AltLd O/S - 17/Jan/10 with David Coley

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/09

Ceridwen - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/09 with Jacob

jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/09 with Ceri Hutchinson

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jun/09

clipskipper - AltLd dog - 13/Jun/09 with Jez B

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/May/09

Hidden - 2009

Both pitches in 1 runout
metal arms - Lead O/S - 27/Dec/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08

GPN - AltLd - Oct/08 with Paul James

+ 2nd with Iain Moodie 07/Aug/10 + Matt Perks 17/Mar/11
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08 with John Vet

Hidden - Sep/08

Brown - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Henry

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Toby Dunford

I think Jamie you will remember I lead both pitches!!
tobydunford - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Jamie Ward

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08 with anna barnes

Hidden - Lead dnf - 23/Feb/08

MD Dan fell off top pitch
Marq - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Daniel Dennehy

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/07

Led p2
cem - AltLd rpt - 29/Apr/07 with Clive

Holds on crux were covered in mud and the pegs to protect it were virtually rusted through.
timharrison - Lead dnf - 08/Apr/07 with Trevor Macalonan

second climb of the year, better than first,fell off crux, pulling flat hand under undercut flake, hand slipped out. Didnt enjoy.
tonanf - Lead dog - Apr/07 with burt

Rob Kennard - 2007

Richard White - 2007

chrisbevins - Lead O/S - 2007

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/06 with Salomon Fernandez

1 rest on the crux - Damn!
Different Steve - Lead dog - 23/Sep/06 with Martin Hore

Bern - 2006

Led p2
cem - AltLd rpt - 11/Dec/05 with Graham Dolman

feilx - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/04

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/02

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jun/02

Led both pitches
cem - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/01 with Ian Folcard

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/99

WB - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/98 with Guy

Roget - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/98 with jon

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 22/Aug/96 with Lee Bartrop

jasper11 - 1994

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/93

sdht - 1993

kp64zl - AltLd - Oct/91 with Simon T

Nigel Coe - 03/May/90 with Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby

pulled on peg!
steve taylor - AltLd - Aug/88 with mark grover

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1988

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 14/Aug/83 with Pete Oxley

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 21/Feb/81 with Mike Butler

3 pts aid
Nigel Coe - AltLd dog - 15/Jun/80 with Dave Kyle

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Matt250, Hidden, johnpr, Hidden, timharrison

Voting
Total votes cast 123
hard E20 of 44
E20 of 44
easy E213 of 44
hard E123 of 44
E15 of 44
easy E13 of 44
hard HVS0 of 44
HVS0 of 44
easy HVS0 of 44
hard 5c0 of 39
5c0 of 39
easy 5c5 of 39
hard 5b24 of 39
5b10 of 39
easy 5b0 of 39
hard 5a0 of 39
5a0 of 39
easy 5a0 of 39
3 Stars2 of 40
2 Stars31 of 40
1 Star7 of 40
0 Stars0 of 40
Bag of .....0 of 40
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Style of ascent

Lead44 of 115 (38.3%)
Followed16 of 115 (13.9%)
Alt Leads44 of 115 (38.3%)
Unknown11 of 115 (9.6%)

'Climbed'39 of 115 (33.9%)
clean O/S55 of 115 (47.8%)
clean β1 of 115 (0.9%)
clean rpt7 of 115 (6.1%)
dogged10 of 115 (8.7%)
dnf3 of 115 (2.6%)