mike mo - Lead - 20/Jun/14 with Edd
done as one pitch. used 120cm sling on fixed cam under roof above sentry box- no issues with rope drag.
Dave Thompson - Lead - 03/Jun/14 with Mark Lee
Tried to link as one pitch. Got scared swinging onto the arete so went back to belay ledge and brought JP up. Gave it another go. Got scared. Got sandy hands. Got over the roof! The crux is the scary sand covered move under the first roof. the roofs themselves are good.
mc fifi - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Jonathan Pearson
Such a good effort from fi!
funsized - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Fi
bede.west - AltLd O/S - 25/May/14
Hidden - AltLd - 19/May/14
Tom Livingstone - AltLd rpt - 07/May/14 with Alex Hallam
P1, glad I didn't lead P2 not ard but scary. BACK UP.
Alex Hallam - AltLd β - 07/May/14 with Tom Livingstone
Lead p2. Will be scary when the pegs have gone!
Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14 with Adam Ryan
Lead P1. The moves on the second pitch were exciting.
adam 24 - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14 with Stuart Johnstone
Intended to do it in one pitch, got to the first roof, but could not arrange the gear I'd be happy with to commit to the step onto the arete. Got lowered back to the sentry box and brought Graham up for moral support. Went up again, this time with a bit more resolve. All good, but traversed too far left and had to abandon a wire and a sling to be able to reverse back to under the crux. From there on all went fine, just a few strenuous pulls on good holds. Not my best performance.
Kirill - Lead - 30/Mar/14 with Berta Lopez, Graham Dolman
Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/14
Fell after clipping the peg past the crux, too pumped. The crux section is too sandy. (Also, don't climb trad with new shoes till they soften)
sarpedon - Lead dog - 29/Sep/13
very sandy and a bit greasy
Martin Bagshaw - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Ian Pegg
Matthew Robinson - AltLd dnf - 26/Jul/13 with Joe
Dusty bottom half, greasy upper half (although it might be OK with a bit of chalk).
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/13 with alex malins
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/13
Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/13
P2. Sandy. Moves to the arete felt insecure because of the sand on all the holds. Found good small gear in the roof (by the rusted peg), then you can reach through to a good (looking) peg. Enjoyable crux moves. Second crux was fun and well-protected too. An enjoyable steep route. Well done to Colin for P1 with one piece of gear :)
ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Colin Peck, Nadir Khan
Led P2 after backing off two years ago. Move left under the roof still feels committing.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 01/Jun/13 with Lawrence Dudley
Georgia H - 2nd - Jun/13
Led P2 went a little off route after pulling through but what can you do? Read the guidebook I guess.
Stroppy - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/13 with Roger Kirke
Fell when a rock broke off.
Roger Kirke - AltLd - 30/Apr/13 with Edward Hastrop
ianto - 2013
in 1 pitch , easy for e1 and mostly solid apart from the very top
misterb - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/12 with justin
Justin T - 2nd - 02/Dec/12 with Nick B
Kevster - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/12 with Tony Johnson
tonevert - 2nd - 30/Sep/12
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/12
Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/12 with josh cooper
Rained off The Heat, led second pitch of Spooks, but not much left in the arms on day 2 of the annual outing!
ellis - 2nd rpt - 02/Sep/12 with Tom Holdsworth, Tom Bridgeland
jcook1980 - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/12 with Dan Moore
Not much peg left take big cam
LukeyG - Lead - 23/May/12
P2 Needed the guns. Great route.
paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 17/May/12 with Will I Am
3 Names - Lead O/S - 17/May/12 with Ed Bulman
will moy - AltLd O/S - 16/May/12 with paul taylor
Beta warning - there is a lot of gear under the roof but you need to extend it massively to get around the roof. the break is sandy and damp and although the move onto the arete is quite easy it is insecure. i slipped trying to back climb to a rest having placed gear. i ended up lobbing about 6m to land below the belayer and just missing the ledge. felt like a lucky escape. having a really big cam would help avoid this risk
Mark Warnett - Lead dog - May/12
Hidden - AltLd dog - 24/Apr/12
Simon Allcock - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/12 with Wilki
Had a good faff moving onto the arete once i got there and discovered a lack of gear and slightly damp, sandy holds. Once i committed tho it was easier than i thought and had satisfying exposure.
Alan100 - AltLd - 22/Jan/12
Led first pitch Alan Second. 1st Peg below roof in 2nd pitch totally knackered now.
Dave89 - AltLd - 22/Jan/12 with Fat Al
PAJames - 2012
sparkass - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11 with Gary Wood
mikeyjbs - 2nd β - 01/Oct/11 with Roger Hamilton-Smith
One rest on a very hot day
riddle - Lead dog - 01/Oct/11 with Mike Stephenson
dswansonlow - 2nd - 02/Aug/11 with John Tanner
John Tanner - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/11 with Dougie Swanson-Low
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/11 with Patrick
james.pilbeam - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11
bigie bob - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/11
Led P1. Shook myself up leading the first pitch, and backed off the second. Awkward moves under the roof to gain the slab above the arete.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Sophie Nunn, Brian Watson
led 2nd pitch
Sophie Nunn - AltLd rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Alan, Brian
brian watson - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Sophie Nunn
lead first pitch, came off on pitch 2
uncontrollable - AltLd dog - 09/Apr/11 with Daj
Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/11
al99 - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Martina Zandonella
martinazando - 2nd - 02/Apr/11 with Al Benson
AlexD - 2nd - 08/Nov/10 with Sophie
Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 08/Nov/10 with Alex
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10
jtree03 - Lead - 15/Aug/10 with dazza
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10
Had been intimidated by this route for years for no good reason. Not particularly hard for Swanage E1 (felt easier than The Spook) and pretty safe on whole with great exposure on the steep bits. I received a good tip to rack a friend 4 to back up the first (and worst) of the three pegs without which the sandy traverse under main roof would be quite scary. 2 pegs above in reasonable condition, a decent breather then an easier-than-expected juggy romp through the upper bulge. Pitch 1 is one to let your mate lead - thanks Andy!
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Andy G
manwithacam - 2nd - 18/Jul/10 with Mike R
Different Steve - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/10 with Emma Hawkins, Clio Jameson
Clee - 2nd - 20/Jun/10 with Steve
led 1st pitch
breed - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Ellis Bird
Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with tommy
Bern - Lead rpt - 07/Mar/10 with Richard White
tscoobydoo - AltLd O/S - Mar/10 with phillip belcher
Hidden - AltLd - 07/Feb/10
colkurtz - AltLd - 07/Feb/10 with Robb
Lead first pitch - not really an E1 pitch, but a pleasant warm-up. Second pitch was tricky approaching the crux. Would recommend replacement of the peg underneath the roof. Failed to remove David's cam from the roof and the RP next to the peg. David later abseiled down to retrieve the gear but had to abandon the cam.
petecallaghan - AltLd O/S - 17/Jan/10 with David Coley
Hidden - AltLd - 29/Aug/09
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/09
Ceridwen - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/09 with Jacob
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/09 with Ceri Hutchinson
lead the easy first pitch. second pitch was fierce enough just following!
jezb1 - AltLd - 13/Jun/09
clipskipper - AltLd dog - 13/Jun/09 with Jez B
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/09
Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/May/09
Hidden - 2009
Both pitches in 1 runout
metal arms - Lead O/S - 27/Dec/08
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08
GPN - AltLd - Oct/08 with Paul James
+ 2nd with Iain Moodie 07/Aug/10 + Matt Perks 17/Mar/11
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08 with John Vet
Hidden - Sep/08
Brown - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Henry
jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Toby Dunford
I think Jamie you will remember I lead both pitches!!
tobydunford - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Jamie Ward
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08 with anna barnes
Hidden - Lead dnf - 23/Feb/08
MD Dan fell off top pitch
Marq - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Daniel Dennehy
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/07
cem - AltLd rpt - 29/Apr/07 with Clive Marston
Holds on crux were covered in mud and the pegs to protect it were virtually rusted through.
timharrison - Lead dnf - 08/Apr/07 with Trevor Macalonan
second climb of the year, better than first,fell off crux, pulling flat hand under undercut flake, hand slipped out. Didnt enjoy.
tonanf - Lead dog - Apr/07 with burt
Rob Kennard - 2007
Richard White - 2007
chrisbevins - Lead O/S - 2007
Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/06 with Salomon Fernandez
1 rest on the crux - Damn!
Different Steve - Lead dog - 23/Sep/06 with Martin Hore
Bern - 2006
cem - AltLd rpt - 11/Dec/05 with Graham Dolman
feilx - 2005
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/04
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/02
Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jun/02
Led both pitches
cem - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/01 with Ian Folcard
Marti999 - Lead - 2000
Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000
Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/99
WB - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/98 with Guy
Roget - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/98 with jon
Mark Kemball - AltLd - 22/Aug/96 with Lee Bartrop
jasper11 - 1994
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/93
sdht - 1993
kp64zl - AltLd - Oct/91 with Simon T
Nigel Coe - 03/May/90 with Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby
pulled on peg!
steve taylor - AltLd - Aug/88 with mark grover
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1988
Nigel Coe - AltLd - 14/Aug/83 with Pete Oxley
Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 21/Feb/81 with Mike Butler
3 pts aid
Nigel Coe - AltLd dog - 15/Jun/80 with Dave Kyle