35m, 2 pitches.
Rockfax Description
A big pitch with quality moves but little gear. Start beneath a large roof at 15m.
1) 5c, 15m. A short wall leads to a ledge (peg). Move left (peg) then climb direct on blind edges to a ledge. Serious.
2) 5b, 20m. Follow a corner and trend right then left past a faultline to a nose (peg). Traverse left to a V-shaped overhang and finish up it. © Rockfax
FA. B.Snell, W.Lyons. FFA. George Hounsome, G.De Lacy 07/Apr/1974.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Climber_Bill | 5 Jul, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very bold. This is a scary E4 not E3. The peg is poor and there is little other reliable gear. A cluster of small things in a flake on the right might slow you down a bit, maybe! Good moves, but as Steve says "pretty harrowing" Do not fall off this one! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Very bold. This is a scary E4 not E3. The peg is poor and there is little other reliable gear. A cluster of small things in a flake on the right might slow you down a bit, maybe! Good moves, but as Steve says "pretty harrowing" Do not fall off this one! |
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Route of Interest
Melpomene
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)