Rockfax Description
A direct corner and crack climb starting as for Tensor II. Follow a corner past a spike and peg to pass a big roof on the right. A chimney allows access to the fault-line and a huge ledge (possible belay). Climb the continuation crack to the top. A helmet jam has been used to great effect by more than one team on this route. © Rockfax

FA. A.Webster, D.Hadlum 27.3.67 27/Mar/1967

Ticklists: Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Tubs 12/Sep 2nd O/S
with AJM
Pat Sollom 12/Sep 2nd O/S
Julian Prieto 12/Sep Lead dog

Took a big fall (around 50 feet) on easier ground near the top. Not quite sure what happened but a few weeks of sleep deprivation (newborn baby, trans-Atlantic jet lag, boozy nights) possibly contributed to a lapse of concentration. Fortunate to only end up with some bruising, cuts and a sore head (cracked my helmet). Had no problem with the crux (which I've done before).

Richard L 09/Aug 2nd dog

Had to prusic past crux. Tony led climbing in a 3 with Amy

with Amy Devereux, Tony Johnson
tonevert 09/Aug Lead O/S
with Ami Deveaux, Richard Long
Hidden 04/Aug Lead dnf
Hidden 04/Aug 2nd
GPN 03/Jul Lead

Good route! Helmet jam not required.

with Annette
net 03/Jul 2nd

Ace route!

with George
alice270 ?/Jul 2nd

Fell off at over hang. Used head to get around corner! Seconded after Ben.

Robin Brooke ?/Jun Lead
Pryan ?/Jun 2nd
FlavioL1989 09/May 2nd O/S
Julian Prieto 30/Nov/14 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 30/Nov/14 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Aug/14 2nd dog
mikehenesy 30/Aug/14 Lead dog

Bugger me, got it all wrong. couldnt figure the roof and headed out on to the face and got exhausted. headed out came back, went again set a cam, came back to the corner , came back rested, headed out again came back etc etc until Ivx couldnt do it any more and rested on the bomber gear. Had to decend a bit to sort the screwed gear and from there sussed it. Not that hard in the end. Take a good look and figure it before getting in to the corner. But hey Sonia and Shy both fell off, which made me feel better.

with Sonia
sonic46 30/Aug/14 2nd

Awkward move around roof, slipped off trying to pull around. Great climb straight up face instead of the roof . . Good effort Mike, well persevered :)

CurlyStevo 30/Aug/14 2nd

started up the E2 on the right and finished up this

with clipskipper
paultaylor 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Matt Roberts
roberts1234567890 18/Jul/14 AltLd
with Paul Taylor
RKirke 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
BenL 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mc fifi 30/May/14 2nd O/S

bit of a sandbag. very awkward. use of head necessary

funsized 30/May/14 Lead
with Fi
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead rpt
brian watson 11/May/14 2nd rpt
Sophie Nunn 11/May/14 Lead rpt
with Scott, Brian
bede.west 11/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 2nd
crossdressingrodney 22/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 02/Jun/13 2nd
with Colin Peck, Nadir Khan
Monkey_Alan 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/May/13 Lead O/S
Peter Lovell 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/13 Lead rpt
uncontrollable 26/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Max
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Dave Mahon ??/2013 2nd dog

eventful. Matt fell, rope got stuck, I fell off crux and had to prusik up 5m

LJKing 30/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Rob Marson
saz_b 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Great moves to get around roof - loving the head jam :-) little scary top out, more wobbly blocks. Swanage!

with Rollo
Rollo 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Saz manned up big-time and lead this one.

with Saz
Sam Husband 16/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Basically just one big move round the bulge, guide book is definitely right the head jam is very useful!

with Ed
Stroppy 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Helmet Jam!!! Just a couple of horrible but well protected moves, the rest is straight forward.

tsyrett 12/Sep/12 2nd dog
Tom Livingstone 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S
jcooper8 10/Sep/12 2nd
Chris Sansum 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jwhp 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S

First testing trad lead. took me ages to pluck up the courage to get round the crux to the chimney section. took so much time i was super pumped. definitely employed the helmet jam to great effect. At the roof placed a cam very poorly without extension. On reaching top of chimney section one of the ropes became stuck. Had to down climb to the crux, free rope and repeat - this happened twice! My second said the cam was really badly placed any way! bugger. great climb

therat 04/Aug/12 Lead
jcook1980 31/Jul/12 Lead
with John Night
Hidden 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 05/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

Led the top section after James had to belay due to excessive rope drag.

Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 03/Jun/12 2nd rpt

Love the helmet jam!

with Dougie
dswansonlow 03/Jun/12 Lead O/S
skunky456 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Awesome committing move getting past the roof into the chimney, sorta used a helmet jam. Being inside the chimney is a much appreciated rest! The roof move is the only thing that makes it HVS 5b, the rest is more like VS 5a

nic42 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with air, stef, simon
harold walmsley 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Very tough for HVS unless I misread the crux. Hardest move done all week (5b/c?) and loose and nasty at the top. Hard to allocate stars as it is very good up to the ledge then bad. May be best to belay and finish up Tensor II?

with Paul Evans
AlexD 20/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Darren
riddle 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
rd20 17/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Patrick
Graham Westbrook 06/Jul/11 Lead O/S
wi11 05/Jul/11 AltLd O/S


james.pilbeam 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
La Mont 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 11/Jun/11 Lead RP

Finally managed to get into the chimney on lead.

Julian Prieto 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/11 2nd
davewing 22/May/11 2nd
with Lee
MarkRyder 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S

No helmet jam, but a good bit of back and footing. Move around the roof not as hard as it looks at first glance.

with Mark
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead
sammycolon 19/Feb/11 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Kevster 19/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 30/Jan/11 Lead dnf

Got up under the roof, tried several times to get into the chimney, lowered off. Tom then gave it a go, and had the same trouble, taking two good falls. Had one more go as it was starting to get dark, but still couldn't do it. Ris had taken up his ab. rope earlier and the other pair at the crag had already left...

Hidden 30/Jan/11 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead β
Monkey_Alan 07/Nov/10 2nd

Climbed to recover gear after Andre failed to second.

Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
3 Names 12/Sep/10 2nd
Geoffers 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Tim
Ceridwen 01/Jul/10 Lead rpt
matt.jj ?/Jul/10 Lead dog

Loved the climb. Traversed right too low to avoid overhang and moved into 'E' territory, hence the fall. On second attempt used the helmet jam to great effect.

hrgcb 20/Jun/10 Lead

Loved the move past the roof

with Jenny
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
davenev 06/Mar/10 2nd O/S

Committing move into the chimney - helmet jam followed by squirmy body jam - nice route

with luke
Mr Tickle 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Nice climb, just the move under roof makes it HVS. No helmet jam for me thank god.

with davenev
Marti999 03/Mar/10 2nd
ChrisBrooke 03/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Marti Hallet
Hidden 07/Feb/10 Lead
colkurtz 07/Feb/10 2nd
with Robb
colkurtz ?/Feb/10 2nd
with Robb
Monkey_Alan 12/Sep/09 2nd
Indy Nile 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Max lead, Alan 2nd, me 3rd

with Max Streeton, Alan Blanchflower
pelvoux 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Mario
jacobjlloyd 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Tim
jezb1 13/Jun/09 2nd
clipskipper 13/Jun/09 Lead
with Jez B
Ceridwen 08/Jun/09 Lead dnf

damp, greasy got stuck, fell on the traverse....yuck!

Ceridwen 08/Jun/09 2nd rpt
Sophie Nunn 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
lyneux 10/May/09 2nd O/S
with Chris Bull
Rob84 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Andy F
TiffTiff 10/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Alex More ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with bob
Hidden ??/2009 -
metal arms 27/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/08 Lead O/S
RocknRoll 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S

REally hard move up around the roof, very strenuous and totally commiting. Used the helmet jam method. Felt more like 5b but my partner witnessed somone else making that move lower down and with a lot more finesse and ease.

with Peter Murphy
Ed Babs 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S
clipskipper 05/Apr/08 2nd O/S

Tricky crux round the roof, but not so taxing on second.

with Ed Babington
tobydunford 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah Wysling
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
cmsg 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Luke Gannarelli
cmsg 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Luke Gannarelli
Danos ?/Apr/07 2nd
with Barry
Hidden 17/Mar/07 -
dan gibson 15/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
timharrison 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 11/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Tim
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
mat cooper ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 -
MontyH 08/Oct/06 2nd

Very tough moves to get into the chimney/corner

with Brian
Ramon Marin 08/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with Salomon Fernandez
Different Steve 23/Sep/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Jul/06 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Apr/06 2nd
Marq 08/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
Bern ??/2006 -
chrisbevins ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Boxy 25/Jun/05 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2005 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2004 -
with Paul H
cem 10/Nov/01 Lead O/S
with Ian Folcard
Hidden ?/Feb/01 Lead
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
kp64zl ?/Dec/91 -
with Giles
steve taylor ?/Aug/89 Lead
with Ket
Dave Musgrove 28/Feb/87 AltLd O/S
with Richard Crewe
Russell Lovett 03/Jun/84 Lead O/S
with Tim Freeman
Nigel Coe 02/May/82 -
with Tim Dunsby
Chris Terrey ?/Oct/80 Lead
with Pete Hevezi
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ciderslider, alice270, mattprince, Hidden, Hidden, andyfeds, Hidden, jamie ward, Hidden, Hidden
High E1
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Votes cast 46
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
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Low 5b
High 5a
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Votes cast 44
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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