Dorset > Guillemot Ledge >
 
Strapiombo** HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Tensor II
 
Helen's Return >>
30m. A direct corner and crack climb starting as for Tensor II. Follow a corner past a spike and peg to pass a big roof on the right. A chimney allows access to the fault-line and a huge ledge (possible belay). Climb the continuation crack to the top. A helmet jam has been used to great effect by more than one team on this route. © ROCKFAX
FA. A.Webster, D.Hadlum 27.3.67 27/Mar/1967
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 131 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Roger Kirke - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Ben Lloyd

BenL - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Roger Kirke

bit of a sandbag. very awkward. use of head necessary
mc fifi - 2nd O/S - 30/May/14 with Jonathan Pearson

funsized - Lead - 30/May/14 with Fi

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/May/14

brian watson - 2nd rpt - 11/May/14 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - Lead rpt - 11/May/14 with Scott, Brian

bede.west - 2nd O/S - 11/May/14

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Aug/13

crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/13 with alex malins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13

ChrisBrooke - 2nd - 02/Jun/13 with Colin Peck, Nadir Khan

Monkey_Alan - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/13 with Lawrence Dudley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/13

Peter Lovell - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Feb/13

uncontrollable - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/13 with Max

ianto - 2013

Hidden - 2013

eventful. Matt fell, rope got stuck, I fell off crux and had to prusik up 5m
Dave Mahon - 2nd dog - 2013

LJKing - Lead rpt - 30/Oct/12 with Rob Marson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

Saz manned up big-time and lead this one.
Rollo - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Saz

Basically just one big move round the bulge, guide book is definitely right the head jam is very useful!
Sam Husband - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Ed

Helmet Jam!!! Just a couple of horrible but well protected moves, the rest is straight forward.
Stroppy - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Sam Husband

tsyrett - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/12

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/12 with josh cooper

Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Chakrit Suriyo

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/12

First testing trad lead. took me ages to pluck up the courage to get round the crux to the chimney section. took so much time i was super pumped. definitely employed the helmet jam to great effect. At the roof placed a cam very poorly without extension. On reaching top of chimney section one of the ropes became stuck. Had to down climb to the crux, free rope and repeat - this happened twice! My second said the cam was really badly placed any way! bugger. great climb
jwhp - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12

therat - Lead - 04/Aug/12

jcook1980 - Lead - 31/Jul/12 with John Night

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/12

Led the top section after James had to belay due to excessive rope drag.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 05/Jul/12 with James Bisset

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/12

Love the helmet jam!
jacobjlloyd - 2nd rpt - 03/Jun/12 with Dougie

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/12 with jacob loyd

Awesome committing move getting past the roof into the chimney, sorta used a helmet jam. Being inside the chimney is a much appreciated rest! The roof move is the only thing that makes it HVS 5b, the rest is more like VS 5a
skunky456 - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

nic42 - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with air, stef, simon

Very tough for HVS unless I misread the crux. Hardest move done all week (5b/c?) and loose and nasty at the top. Hard to allocate stars as it is very good up to the ledge then bad. May be best to belay and finish up Tensor II?
harold walmsley - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Paul Evans

AlexD - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/11 with Darren

riddle - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Mike Stephenson

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Claire Duffield

rd20 - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/11 with Patrick

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/11

P2
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/11 with Graham Westbrook

james.pilbeam - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

La Mont - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Lisa Paling

Finally managed to get into the chimney on lead.
Monkey_Alan - Lead RP - 11/Jun/11 with Julian Prieto, Max Streeton

Julian Prieto - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Max Streeton, Alan Blanchflower

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/11

davewing - 2nd - 22/May/11 with Lee

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with James P

No helmet jam, but a good bit of back and footing. Move around the roof not as hard as it looks at first glance.
jamespilgrim - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Mark

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/11

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Rich

Hidden - Lead - 02/Apr/11

sammycolon - 2nd dog - 19/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/11

Kevster - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/11

Got up under the roof, tried several times to get into the chimney, lowered off. Tom then gave it a go, and had the same trouble, taking two good falls. Had one more go as it was starting to get dark, but still couldn't do it. Ris had taken up his ab. rope earlier and the other pair at the crag had already left...
Monkey_Alan - Lead dnf - 30/Jan/11 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead β - 07/Nov/10

Climbed to recover gear after Andre failed to second.
Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 07/Nov/10 with Andre Clarke, Tom Thorne

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10

3 Names - 2nd - 12/Sep/10 with Sumee Holloway

Geoffers - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Tim

Ceridwen - Lead rpt - 01/Jul/10

Loved the climb. Traversed right too low to avoid overhang and moved into 'E' territory, hence the fall. On second attempt used the helmet jam to great effect.
matt.jj - Lead dog - Jul/10

Loved the move past the roof
hrgcb - Lead - 20/Jun/10 with Jenny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10

Committing move into the chimney - helmet jam followed by squirmy body jam - nice route
davenev - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with luke

Nice climb, just the move under roof makes it HVS. No helmet jam for me thank god.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/10 with davenev

Marti999 - 2nd - 03/Mar/10

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/10 with Marti Hallet

Hidden - Lead - 07/Feb/10

colkurtz - 2nd - 07/Feb/10 with Robb

colkurtz - 2nd - Feb/10 with Robb

Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 12/Sep/09 with Max Streeton

Max lead, Alan 2nd, me 3rd
Indy Nile - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Max Streeton, Alan Blanchflower

pelvoux - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Mario

jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Tim

jezb1 - 2nd - 13/Jun/09

clipskipper - Lead - 13/Jun/09 with Jez B

damp, greasy got stuck, fell on the traverse....yuck!
Ceridwen - Lead dnf - 08/Jun/09 with Sophie Nunn

Ceridwen - 2nd rpt - 08/Jun/09 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/09

lyneux - 2nd O/S - 10/May/09 with Chris Bull

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/09 with Andy F

TiffTiff - Lead O/S - 10/Jan/09 with Heather

Alex More - AltLd O/S - 2009 with bob

Hidden - 2009

metal arms - Lead O/S - 27/Dec/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/08

REally hard move up around the roof, very strenuous and totally commiting. Used the helmet jam method. Felt more like 5b but my partner witnessed somone else making that move lower down and with a lot more finesse and ease.
RocknRoll - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Peter Murphy

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Lee Mercer

Tricky crux round the roof, but not so taxing on second.
clipskipper - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Ed Babington

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Sarah Wysling

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07

cmsg - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Luke Gannarelli

cmsg - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Luke Gannarelli

Danos - 2nd - Apr/07 with Barry

Hidden - 17/Mar/07

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/07 with helen gibson

timharrison - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07 with Trevor Macalonan

trevor macalonan - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/07 with Tim

Rob Kennard - 2007

mat cooper - Lead - 2007

Richard White - 2007

Very tough moves to get into the chimney/corner
MontyH - 2nd - 08/Oct/06 with Brian

Ramon Marin - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/06 with Salomon Fernandez

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 23/Sep/06 with Martin Hore

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Apr/06

Marq - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/06 with Daniel Dennehy

Bern - 2006

chrisbevins - Lead O/S - 2006

Jim Walton - 2006 with Dawb Oxbrough

Boxy - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/05

feilx - 2005

Jon Greengrass - 2004 with Paul H

cem - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/01 with Ian Folcard

Hidden - Lead - Feb/01

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

kp64zl - Dec/91 with Giles

steve taylor - Lead - Aug/89 with Ket

Dave Musgrove - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/87 with Richard Crewe

Nigel Coe - 02/May/82 with Tim Dunsby

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ciderslider, Hidden, Hidden, andyfeds, Hidden, jamie ward, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 120
hard E10 of 44
E10 of 44
easy E12 of 44
hard HVS22 of 44
HVS17 of 44
easy HVS2 of 44
hard VS1 of 44
VS0 of 44
easy VS0 of 44
hard 5b0 of 42
5b0 of 42
easy 5b24 of 42
hard 5a9 of 42
5a8 of 42
easy 5a1 of 42
hard 4c0 of 42
4c0 of 42
easy 4c0 of 42
3 Stars2 of 34
2 Stars25 of 34
1 Star6 of 34
0 Stars0 of 34
Bag of .....1 of 34
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Style of ascent

Lead72 of 131 (55.0%)
Followed40 of 131 (30.5%)
Alt Leads6 of 131 (4.6%)
Unknown13 of 131 (9.9%)

'Climbed'39 of 131 (29.8%)
clean O/S70 of 131 (53.4%)
clean β1 of 131 (0.8%)
clean rpt13 of 131 (9.9%)
clean RP1 of 131 (0.8%)
dogged5 of 131 (3.8%)
dnf2 of 131 (1.5%)