Rockfax Description
Fine wall climbing on the initial pitch, rounded off by a challenging top pitch. High in the grade. Start just left of a big groove/corner.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the wall, trending left to a down pointing spike. Move left and up past a bulge (peg) into a shallow groove. Continue to a belay on the left at the faultline.
2) 5b, 20m. Trend steeply rightwards under blocks, then over to a small ledge. Move on and rightwards, around an arete, into a corner with a large flake. Finish up this, exiting left. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, A.Wilde, P.Crewe 03/Apr/1972.
Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth
User | Date | Notes | ||
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JamesHopper | 12 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Fun one with Jamie nearly dieing | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fun one with Jamie nearly dieing |
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Marq | 10 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Climbed on 8 April 06. First pitch felt more like 5a then 5b. Second pitch was def harder than first. Rockfall may have been the wedged boulder, because there wasn't one! Belayed off the peg and a couple of nuts in the cramped space. Good route though! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed on 8 April 06. First pitch felt more like 5a then 5b. Second pitch was def harder than first. Rockfall may have been the wedged boulder, because there wasn't one! Belayed off the peg and a couple of nuts in the cramped space. Good route though! |
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clipskipper | 20 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: Some rockfall from lower pitch, so it looks like this needs to be regraded. Volunteers? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some rockfall from lower pitch, so it looks like this needs to be regraded. Volunteers? |
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Jon Greengrass | 22 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: Classic E1 a nice wall to start then a cool traverse and some nice technical moves onto a slab. The Belay is indeed cramped but atmospheric, and the anchors seemed to block holds that would have been handy for leaving the tiny ledge, (crux) a scary but adequately protected traverse leads into nowhere but then jugs arrive and you can romp up enormous flakes to the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Classic E1 a nice wall to start then a cool traverse and some nice technical moves onto a slab. The Belay is indeed cramped but atmospheric, and the anchors seemed to block holds that would have been handy for leaving the tiny ledge, (crux) a scary but adequately protected traverse leads into nowhere but then jugs arrive and you can romp up enormous flakes to the top. |
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purple sue | 9 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Yeah, echo Mikes comments about grades. Give it two stars for two really absorbing pitches. A big thankyou to the beneavolent soul who supplied the bomber new belay stake above the top pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Yeah, echo Mikes comments about grades. Give it two stars for two really absorbing pitches. A big thankyou to the beneavolent soul who supplied the bomber new belay stake above the top pitch. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)