40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Fine wall climbing on the initial pitch, rounded off by a challenging top pitch. Start just left of a big groove/corner.

1) 5b, 20m. Climb the wall, trending left to a down-pointing spike. Move left and up past a bulge (peg) into a shallow groove. Continue to a belay on the left at the fault-line.
2) 5b, 20m. Trend steeply rightwards under blocks, then over to a small ledge. Move on and rightwards, around an arete, into a corner with a large flake. Finish up this, exiting left. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, A.Wilde, P.Crewe 3.4.72 03/Apr/1972

Ticklists: Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012.

rajeshwarbisht 04/Jul 2nd O/S
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 04/Jul Lead O/S
islandlynx 27/Jun AltLd O/S

Led p2. Tom didn't seem too comfortable on the belay, not sure who was most worried while I made the crux moves.

TomRiddelsdell 27/Jun AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

Hidden 11/Jun 2nd O/S
Tim_C7 03/May AltLd O/S
with Luke Williams
London Luke 03/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Mar Lead O/S
Shane Willis 24/Jan Lead O/S

Great route! Led both pitches. Tricky swapping with my second on the tiny belay stance! But worth it. The first pitch is good climbing, the second pitch is fun climbing! :P Was a hard E1 though.

kp64zl ?/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

I led 2nd pitch.

julesmckim 31/Oct/14 AltLd

Two great contrasting pitches. Looks loose on the top pitch but is mostly solid. Good gear throughout

with Rob Smart
Hidden 09/Sep/14 Lead
Rachel Slater 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S


Duncan Campbell 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2 which had a tricky/slopey crux section.

with Rach
mikeyjbs 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with mat downes
Stuart Johnston 04/May/14 AltLd

Lead p2. Awesome!

adam 24 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. Very contrasting pitches, open wall climbing to exciting exposure on P2.

mike lawrence? 11/Apr/14 Lead
with Paul
Martin Haworth 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 15/Mar/14 AltLd dog

Led second pitch. One fall on initial traverse, quite a stiff move across. Fortunately soft landing on top of martin!

Hidden 24/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Nick Clement 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
Sophie Nunn 27/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Richard
Luxulyan 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Matthew Robinson 24/Jul/13 AltLd
with Joe
crossdressingrodney 23/Jun/13 2nd O/S

In one pitch.

Hidden 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Stroppy 30/Apr/13 2nd dog

Well... we did P1 then Rog went pretty far off route and I finished up the top of Batt crack. Hold snapped off in my hand (fell) whilst on second.

RKirke 30/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
ianto ??/2013 -
misterb 02/Dec/12 AltLd

quality first pitch . p2 has a hard start.good climbing but has a serious feel .many big hand and foot holds if you trust them to stay attached!

with justin
Justin T 02/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with Nick B
Hidden 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
AlexD 30/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Alor_lab 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
3 Names 06/Aug/12 2nd
with Dan Craig
pelvoux 04/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Second the first pitch and lead the second. Long traverse after the belay not well protected then plenty of gear.

with Chris Bull
Hidden 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S
paultaylor 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

Top pitch is poo

will moy 29/May/12 AltLd O/S
with paul taylor
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 11/Mar/12 2nd rpt

Gave it everything on the start of P2, got totally pumped and let Tom lead it. Was still pumped when I was seconding it!

clipskipper 19/Feb/12 2nd β
Dave89 22/Jan/12 AltLd

Led first pitch Alan Second. Had to rest on rope to get gear out on 2nd pitch

with Fat Al
Alan100 22/Jan/12 AltLd

Lead p2. Briefly strenuous but well protected with rests.

PAJames ??/2012 -
Kirill 13/Nov/11 AltLd dog

led p2, dogged the start of it

cem 13/Nov/11 AltLd rpt

Led p1. Can't understand the votes for E2. Start of p2 is potentially thuggy but it's possible to use a bit of finesse making the move across under the O/H (don't go up too high)

Monkey_Alan 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Nice and technical, unlike the thuggy P2.

WB 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

frightening. tricky climbing and lots of loose holds. harder than the e2s!

with Guy
Dan Lane 17/Sep/11 2nd O/S

In one pitch, good climbing and not as hard as it looks, still hard though!

with Martin Kocsis
GuyM ?/Sep/11 AltLd

First pitch good - second pitch a bit serious and loose..

with will
dswansonlow 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with John Tanner
John Tanner 01/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Dougie Swanson-Low
benjino 06/May/11 AltLd O/S

Lead Second Pitch

jezb1 26/Apr/11 2nd

Good meaty middle

Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead
colkurtz 23/Apr/11 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
cymjt ??/2011 -
Hidden 07/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Bern 07/Mar/10 2nd rpt
Ceridwen 08/Jun/09 AltLd dog

The second pitch was brutal! The first was exactly what it says in the guide, nice wall climbing. The second pitch was scary, thuggy, steep and the start was frankly dangerous (potential fall strait onto the belayer). I hung around securing a decent nut on in situe and crap gear before setting off to prevent a potential factor 2 fall onto the belay. Did the rest clean. Very enjoyable once away from belay.

Sophie Nunn 08/Jun/09 AltLd
petegruf 10/May/09 AltLd O/S

My first Swanage E1. Lead P1. Felt easy for 5b though the gear wasn't great. P2 strenuous but not that difficult. Great route and I'm well chuffed.

with Chris B
Mr Tickle 09/May/09 Lead O/S

start of 2nd pitch was hard, felt harder than E1. First pitch was lovelt though.

with davenev
davenev 09/May/09 2nd dog

Start of Second pitch felt very, very hard

with luke
feilx 28/Feb/09 2nd rpt
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S

one pitch

with Felix
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead
Ed Babs 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S

+ AltLd (P2) with Iain Moodie 07/Aug/10

with John Vet
tobydunford 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Lovely sustained first pitch and a nice belay stance. almost lost it going over the bulge on second pitch thanks to a crumbling hand hold, the rest was pretty nice and on big holds!!

LiLaMont 23/Aug/08 2nd β
Oli 17/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Toby Burrell
Tobes ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Oli
Owen W-G 04/May/08 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. P1 pleasantly enjoyable but first 5m of P2 felt well hard, straight from the belay. Had a bit of a moment after mounting the bulge - scared, gripped, too pumped to place pro, you know the feeling. Tony looked a bit worried too, especially since I'd ignored instruction to belay on L, such that he was right underneath a wobbling leader! A bit E2ish?

with Tony Seale
pezzerrr 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Jenga finish.

sadams 23/Feb/08 AltLd

Led second pitch 5b

with Eric Hildrew
clipskipper 19/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

My first E1. Seconding the wall on the first pitch the 'downward-pointing spike' came off in my hand. Leading the top pitch a foot-hold broke off as I mantled over the roof. Great atmospheric climbing that I enjoyed immensely!

with Davey Boy
tonanf ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Pep
dan gibson 15/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Richard Horn 10/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
chrisbevins ??/2007 Lead O/S
Different Steve 29/Jul/06 AltLd dog

Led P1 clean - nice climbing after initial sandy section. Fall 2nding pitch 2 - loose rock?

Marq 08/Apr/06 2nd

DD, Mark backed off 2nd pitch

with Daniel Dennehy
Bern ??/2006 -
feilx ??/2005 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2004 -
with Paul H
cem 28/Sep/03 Lead O/S

Led both pitches

with Rod Strachan
tapley 26/Oct/00 2nd
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
kp64zl ?/Jul/91 -
with Paul
Hidden 11/Feb/89 AltLd
Nigel Coe 02/May/87 -
with Tim Dunsby
turnerk ??/1979 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, LJKing, Ash Sayers, Ropeboy, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 39
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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