Sugar Ray** 7a+

Rockfax Description
A neat stamina pitch up the flowstone face that is deceptively tough. The start to gain a jug over the second roof is a V2 boulder problem. © ROCKFAX

FA. Pete Oxley 8.4.92. The first route in the U.K. to have staple bolts - how they have spread! 08/Apr/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dancing Ledge apprenticeship, Dancing Ledge Sport Climbs.

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This climb is in 55 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead RP - 08/Aug/15

MontyH - TR - 22/Jul/15 with brian and Pete

Sophie Nunn - Lead dog - 21/Jul/15 with Matt W

Excellent route.
Ed Babs - Lead RP - 07/Jul/15 with Alan Blanchflower, Brian Watson, Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - Lead dog - 07/Jul/15 with Ed B

1st red point. The chalk sent me the wrong way on my first look at it.
Shane Willis - Lead RP - 30/Apr/15

Cracking routes, dropped the last hard move on the on-sight... gutted
BRoe - Lead RP - Apr/15 with Seamus, Will Lord, Millard, DanG

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Aug/14

Hidden - 12/Jul/14

adam 24 - Lead RP - 05/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jul/14

hervenuttall - Lead O/S - Jul/14 with calum

dmoir - Lead RP - 23/Aug/13 with Oli

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Aug/13

Jon_Warner - TR dog - 04/Aug/13 with Jonny

Hidden - TR dog - 04/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Aug/12

Really good climbing on slots up to the amazing under-cling. The next section was definitely the crux, where you end up on two very poor holds and have to clip. This feels harder than other 7a in the other area.
marcb - Lead dog - 17/Jun/12 with Alice Hafer, Amy Nash

Remember trying this once years ago. Hardly remembered it so almost an on-sight...
quiffhanger - Lead RP - 03/Jun/12

chakrit - Lead β - 18/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/Mar/12

Jonathan Emett - TR dog - 24/Dec/11 with james bisset, paulj

Hidden - TR dog - 18/Dec/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 18/Dec/11

Hidden - TR dog - 18/Dec/11

Hidden - TR dog - 09/Dec/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Aug/11

Sophie Nunn - 2nd dog - 07/Aug/11 with Brian

brian watson - TR dog - 07/Aug/11 with Sophie Nunn

Couldn't clip the 4th bolt! Spent quite a bit of time trying different things but couldn't sus it. Got to a thin crimp but where after that?! Has this lost a hold? Couldn't see any chalk after this point...
Sami Mandeel - Lead dnf - 31/Jul/11

Partner's project. Start a V3 boulder problem apparently though felt harder to me... tiny sharp hold almost went through left forefinger!
andyjirvin - TR dnf - 08/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 05/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - TR dog - 11/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/10

pretty tough! got it 4th go this time. sustained climbing with no real rest after the start boulder problem. completely sequency and can be hard to fathom if not chalked... chuffed to get this.
mark_wellin - Lead RP - 21/May/10

good climbing when its dry
Martin Krasnansky - Lead RP - 14/Mar/09

pezzerrr - Lead RP - 30/Dec/08

sam_cox - Lead - Dec/08

feilx - Lead RP - 12/Aug/08 with Heather

feilx - Lead dog - 10/Aug/08 with Bern

Hidden - Lead RP - 12/Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 05/Aug/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2007

bigie bob - Lead RP - 09/Jun/06

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Jun/06

feeko - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead - Aug/99

sadams - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/96 with Dixon/Fletcher

steve taylor - Lead - 1995

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
selman, Richard Horn

Total votes cast 41
hard 7b0 of 25
7b0 of 25
easy 7b0 of 25
hard 7a+1 of 25
7a+0 of 25
easy 7a+18 of 25
hard 7a4 of 25
7a2 of 25
easy 7a0 of 25
3 Stars2 of 16
2 Stars10 of 16
1 Star4 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean RP