Dorset > Dancing Ledge >
 
Sugar Ray** 7a

Adjacent Climbs
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Names is for Tombstones, Baby >>
10m. A neat stamina pitch up the flowstone face that is deceptively tough. The start to gain a jug over the second roof is a V2 boulder problem. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pete Oxley 8.4.92. The first route in the U.K. to have staple bolts - how they have spread! 08/Apr/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dancing Ledge apprenticeship.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 44 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

adam 24 - Lead RP - 05/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jul/14

nutallovertheface - Lead O/S - Jul/14 with calum

dmoir - Lead RP - 23/Aug/13 with Oli

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Aug/13

Eeeesk...
Jon_Warner - TR dog - 04/Aug/13 with Jonny

Hidden - TR dog - 04/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Aug/12

Really good climbing on slots up to the amazing under-cling. The next section was definitely the crux, where you end up on two very poor holds and have to clip. This feels harder than other 7a in the other area.
marcb - Lead dog - 17/Jun/12 with Alice Hafer, Amy Nash

Remember trying this once years ago. Hardly remembered it so almost an on-sight...
quiffhanger - Lead RP - 03/Jun/12

chakrit - Lead β - 18/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/Mar/12

Jonathan Emett - TR dog - 24/Dec/11 with james bisset, paulj

Hidden - TR dog - 18/Dec/11

found it a hard one for the grade but a good route none the less 3* for me
Phil Belcher - Lead RP - 18/Dec/11 with Paul

Hidden - TR dog - 18/Dec/11

Hidden - TR dog - 09/Dec/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Aug/11

Sophie Nunn - 2nd dog - 07/Aug/11 with Brian

brian watson - TR dog - 07/Aug/11 with Sophie Nunn

Couldn't clip the 4th bolt! Spent quite a bit of time trying different things but couldn't sus it. Got to a thin crimp but where after that?! Has this lost a hold? Couldn't see any chalk after this point...
Sami Mandeel - Lead dnf - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - TR dnf - 08/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 05/Feb/11

Really great little power endurance route. 3 working goes and 2 RP's over two days. Feels solid 7a+ to me and probably quite a hard onsight. 800th route in my logbook
Quiddity - Lead RP - 12/Sep/10 with Curious Yellow

Hidden - TR dog - 11/Sep/10

pretty tough! got it 4th go this time. sustained climbing with no real rest after the start boulder problem. completely sequency and can be hard to fathom if not chalked... chuffed to get this.
mark_wellin - Lead RP - 21/May/10

good climbing when its dry
Martin Krasnansky - Lead RP - 14/Mar/09

pezzerrr - Lead RP - 30/Dec/08

sam_cox - Lead - Dec/08

feilx - Lead RP - 12/Aug/08 with Heather

feilx - Lead dog - 10/Aug/08 with Bern

Hidden - Lead RP - 12/Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 05/Aug/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Richard White - 2007

bigie bob - Lead RP - 09/Jun/06

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Jun/06

feeko - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead - Aug/99

sadams - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/96 with Dixon/Fletcher

steve taylor - Lead - 1995

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Quiddity, Hidden, RockSteady, Hidden, Hidden, Richard Horn

Voting
Total votes cast 39
hard 7a+1 of 24
7a+0 of 24
easy 7a+17 of 24
hard 7a4 of 24
7a2 of 24
easy 7a0 of 24
hard 6c+0 of 24
6c+0 of 24
easy 6c+0 of 24
3 Stars2 of 15
2 Stars9 of 15
1 Star4 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent

Lead29 of 44 (65.9%)
Followed2 of 44 (4.5%)
Toproped9 of 44 (20.5%)
Unknown4 of 44 (9.1%)

'Climbed'8 of 44 (18.2%)
clean O/S3 of 44 (6.8%)
clean β1 of 44 (2.3%)
clean RP16 of 44 (36.4%)
dogged13 of 44 (29.5%)
dnf3 of 44 (6.8%)