Rockfax Description
A neat stamina pitch up the flowstone face that is deceptively tough. The start to gain a jug over the second roof is a V2 boulder problem. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 8.4.92. The first route in the U.K. to have staple bolts - how they have spread! 08/Apr/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dancing Ledge apprenticeship, Dancing Ledge Sport Climbs.

Hidden 08/Aug Lead RP
MontyH 22/Jul TR
with brian and Pete
Sophie Nunn 21/Jul Lead dog
with Matt W
Ed Babs 07/Jul Lead RP

Excellent route.

with Alan Blanchflower, Brian Watson, Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 07/Jul Lead dog
with Ed B
Shane Willis 30/Apr Lead RP

1st red point. The chalk sent me the wrong way on my first look at it.

BRoe ?/Apr Lead RP

Cracking routes, dropped the last hard move on the on-sight... gutted

with Seamus, Will Lord, Millard, DanG
Hidden 17/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Jul/14 -
adam 24 05/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead RP
hervenuttall ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with calum
dmoir 23/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Oli
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead RP
Jon_Warner 04/Aug/13 TR dog


with Jonny
Hidden 04/Aug/13 TR dog
Hidden 25/Aug/12 Lead RP
marcb 17/Jun/12 Lead dog

Really good climbing on slots up to the amazing under-cling. The next section was definitely the crux, where you end up on two very poor holds and have to clip. This feels harder than other 7a in the other area.

quiffhanger 03/Jun/12 Lead RP

Remember trying this once years ago. Hardly remembered it so almost an on-sight...

chakrit 18/Mar/12 Lead β
Hidden 07/Mar/12 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 24/Dec/11 TR dog
Hidden 18/Dec/11 TR dog
Hidden 18/Dec/11 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Dec/11 TR dog
Hidden 09/Dec/11 TR dog
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead dog
Sophie Nunn 07/Aug/11 2nd dog
with Brian
brian watson 07/Aug/11 TR dog
Sami Mandeel 31/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Couldn't clip the 4th bolt! Spent quite a bit of time trying different things but couldn't sus it. Got to a thin crimp but where after that?! Has this lost a hold? Couldn't see any chalk after this point...

andyjirvin 08/Mar/11 TR dnf

Partner's project. Start a V3 boulder problem apparently though felt harder to me... tiny sharp hold almost went through left forefinger!

Hidden 05/Feb/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Sep/10 TR dog
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead
mark_wellin 21/May/10 Lead RP

pretty tough! got it 4th go this time. sustained climbing with no real rest after the start boulder problem. completely sequency and can be hard to fathom if not chalked... chuffed to get this.

Martin Krasnansky 14/Mar/09 Lead RP

good climbing when its dry

pezzerrr 30/Dec/08 Lead RP
sam_cox ?/Dec/08 Lead
feilx 12/Aug/08 Lead RP
with Heather
feilx 10/Aug/08 Lead dog
with Bern
Hidden 12/Jul/08 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Aug/07 2nd dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 09/Jun/06 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/99 Lead
sadams 21/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with Dixon/Fletcher
steve taylor ??/1995 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
selman, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Richard Horn
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set