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The War of the Wardens 5+

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[Dancing Ledge from The War Of The Wardens, 2 kb]10m. A well-loved and well-used line that has become polished. © ROCKFAX
FA. Mark Williams 17.5.94 17/May/1994

Photo: Dancing Ledge from The War Of The Wardens © jonny_spiderman
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 224 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

AdamH - TR - 12/Apr/14

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 20/Aug/13 with Clare

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/13 with Richard

Not much fun
Pete Dangerous - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Kamil

lewiz - Lead rpt - 10/Aug/13 with Pete Gagie

andyclimber - 2nd dog - 03/Aug/13

2 stars for the intricacy and route finding. Again hard on a sweaty day with very dusty holds causing slippage!
sshandy - Lead dog - 03/Aug/13 with MTB Andy Potter, Zoe Pickering

tomB - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Juliette, Jody

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

Keiran.A - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Tibor

Several easy low routes
Banana Cockroach - TR RP - 26/May/13 with the boys. manda and stephen

JDG2428 - 2nd - 2013

horrible polished route, didnt fancy the lead
the ant hill mob - TR RP - 29/Sep/12

mattshort - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

mr random - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/12 with Lotty, Mike H

lewiz - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Klara Vlckova, Martin Holecek, Kirsten Donovan

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Clare

Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/12

gibsond - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/12 with Jan

Alex Norman - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Jul/12

Ffej - TR dog - 17/Jun/12 with Graeham Whitty

birthers - Lead β - 16/Jun/12 with Caroline C

caroline256 - Lead dog - 16/Jun/12 with Tom B

graemecw - Lead - 16/Jun/12

This was a lot less greasy than the last time I did it.
gibsond - Lead RP - 14/Jun/12 with Paul Jackson

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Jun/12

sam_craddock - Lead dog - 14/Apr/12

Hidden - TR - 14/Apr/12

el_monty - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12 with lydia Mashin

Done once never again...thought this was gash
drewish - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12

Hidden - TR rpt - 11/Feb/12

Edward Hastrop - 2nd - Feb/12 with Tom Bushell

Danny_boulders - Lead β - Jan/12

tombushell - Lead - 2012 with Ed Hastrop

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Dec/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Nov/11

Andrew Taylor - 2nd dog - 15/Oct/11 with Jason Garnham

Hidden - Lead - Oct/11

Hidden - Lead - 25/Sep/11

deejmonkey - Lead - 17/Sep/11

i_a_coops - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11

Beaten by the polish, OH and my lack of skill and strength :-) Next year maybe !!
mungo - Lead dnf - 17/Aug/11 with Liz Ireland

Gazleah - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with linda ford

mrs mungo - 2nd dnf - 17/Aug/11 with mungo

stephen.W-S - Solo - 14/Aug/11

The holds are so hard to hold onto at the start. gets better as the climb goes on.
Hinchrn - TR RP - 31/Jul/11 with Michael Henesy

benren - 2nd dog - 31/Jul/11 with Tom

Blinded by the sun glinting off the rock, teflon coated. Secumed to siege tactics. All three made it in the end.
mikehenesy - Lead dog - 31/Jul/11 with Ben with the tats, Tom Hinchcliffe aka Tom M.

lioness84 - 30/Jul/11

painfully polished... like an ice-rink
alexanderjwatts - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/11

jimecallaw - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with David, Danny

Dannywallcrawler - TR O/S - 02/Jul/11 with jim wallace

Tadams - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11

Chris Redding - Lead dog - 25/Jun/11

Chris Redding - Lead dog - 25/Jun/11

Chris Redding - Lead dog - 25/Jun/11

Chris Redding - Lead RP - 25/Jun/11

So polished! I found this harder than Ozark Mountain Daredevils
davewing - Lead dnf - 11/Jun/11 with Andy H

So polished you can see your face in it!
andyhurford - Lead β - 11/Jun/11 with Dave Wing

lozowen - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11 with Justin Field

gnat - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Wayne Clark

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/May/11

Hidden - TR - May/11

djking1983 - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/11 with Steve Knaggs

karen87 - TR dnf - 06/Apr/11

adambaker - Lead - Apr/11

hp8g12 - Lead - Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

ben51234 - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Mar/11

Hidden - TR O/S - 07/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/11

Got upto the first clip, the route was soaked, loads of seepage. Decided to back off.
Chris Perry - Lead dnf - 08/Jan/11

Matt250 - Lead O/S - 2011

willreddin - TR dog - 2011

jacko1485 - 2nd - 2011

Cold, couldn't feel my fingers.
notclive - Lead dog - 27/Nov/10 with Murray

MontyH - Lead - 13/Nov/10 with Paul Milton

manwithacam - 2nd - 23/Oct/10 with Joris

alexanderjwatts - Lead - 12/Oct/10

rbcr106 - Lead dog - 17/Sep/10

gibsond - Lead dog - 05/Sep/10 with Steve Newman, Pilar Martinez

Some guy wanted his rope putting up to the lower-offs so his son could climb higher up. Didn't realise he didn'e have a harness and was body belaying for his son. Had to get guy to belay me up.
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Jess and Guy

tobydunford - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/10

MD - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/10

Tricky top section
J.Atkins - Lead - 16/Aug/10

TomOsterwold - Lead O/S - Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jul/10

Stuart Johnston - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with Helen White

ollie1 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/10

Manchi - Lead dog - 24/Apr/10 with tim_mcd

tim_mcd - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Manchi

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/10

brian watson - Lead rpt - 02/Jan/10

j miller - 2010

MontyH - Lead - 12/Dec/09 with pete frost

JGW - Lead - Oct/09 with Tall John

Alex Munnery - Lead - 16/Sep/09 with Dave Guilfoyle

Joemanglerocks - Lead dog - 12/Sep/09 with Tim Knight

TimKnight - TR - 12/Sep/09 with Paul Anker

Charlie Evans - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/09 with Phil Roberts, Aggie Moskala

horrible route!
tsyrett - Lead dog - 19/Aug/09

langar27 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Tom Syrett

Ade7 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Liz

More polished than the start of Climber's Club Direct. Terrible route. Not that I have sour grapes after falling off it and watching my wife cruise the route
TonyB - Lead dog - 15/Aug/09 with Gwilym

AnniH - TR - 15/Aug/09 with Gwilym

Hard for the grade and polished
eugeneth - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Ian

Got to second bolt no problem but took a few good falls trying to make the third. It's starting to get very polished now.
JonnyT - Lead dog - 31/Jul/09 with Ferg

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Jul/09

The start, middle and particularly the end was difficult. Really hard for the grade.
Hamish777 - 2nd dog - 26/Jul/09 with Andrea

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09

candicegallab - TR - 03/Jul/09

davespider - Lead - Jul/09 with Laura Barclay

d_meacher - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/09 with David Webster

horribly pollished
Webster - 2nd dog - 16/Jun/09

michpaulatto - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09

so polished that it shines in the sun
SGD - Lead - 22/May/09 with Tom Relf

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/09

bigbobbyking - Lead - 02/May/09

Mozzy - Mar/09 with Dan j

Too cold to make the moves!
Fatclimber - Lead dog - 31/Jan/09 with Dean Chapman

thompson1000 - 2009

trev_f - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Dec/08

MarkRyder - Lead RP - 29/Nov/08 with Rich

nickwhimster - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/08 with Brian Cox

Found big layaway on second attempt.
Scott McRae - TR RP - 27/Sep/08 with Tim Gledhill

MontyH - Lead - 10/Sep/08 with pete frost

rubben - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/08

Could not even get to first bolt.
Steve954 - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/08 with Rich

Got slightly further than leading but still not good
Steve954 - TR dnf - 16/Aug/08 with Rich

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Aug/08

djp1 - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Greg

jez_palmer - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/08

adrianjenner - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08

Monk - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/08 with Mandy

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/08

ArranR - Lead O/S - Apr/08

Kyle F - Lead - Apr/08

vertigo - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Cat Higgs

wet and polished!!!!!!!!!!!
MontyH - Lead - 19/Jan/08 with Lee Lander

Hidden - TR - 19/Jan/08

mark_wellin - Lead - 2008

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 01/Dec/07 with Alistair Everet

mol - 2nd - 01/Dec/07 with Jesse

Alistair Everett - 2nd - 01/Dec/07 with Jesse Dufton

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - Oct/07

chris sm - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/07

pete.hutchings - Lead dog - Aug/07

JPGR - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with Yvette

MontyH - Lead rpt - 07/May/07 with Paul Milton

hapymike - Lead - 07/May/07

Hidden - Lead dog - May/07

trevor macalonan - Lead RP - 05/Apr/07 with Abi

What a grease fest!
tobydunford - Lead dog - 11/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Richard White - 2007

lyneux - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/06 with Laurence Weil

Very, very, very polished, up into 6a due to that fact!!
JDSwain - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/06 with Ben Candlin

MontyH - Lead rpt - 04/Sep/06 with pete frost

Hidden - Lead - 16/Jul/06

winter_burn - TR O/S - 14/Jul/06

MontyH - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/06 with pete frost

Rebecca Buckenham - Lead dog - 15/Jun/06 with Andre

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/06

thelizard - Lead β - 15/Apr/06

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Paul Watkinson

aged_ape - Lead β - Apr/06 with Nige T

feeko - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/05

Rob in a Field - Lead - Jun/05

MontyH - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/05 with Paul Milton

Rokmunky - Lead O/S - Mar/05

Phil Belcher - 2005

Hidden - Lead dog - 2005

Haglington - Lead O/S - Jul/04

runwildjohn - 2nd - 17/Apr/04 with Roger Pleasant, Alice Horton

timharrison - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/04

timharrison - Lead O/S - Mar/04 with Dominic Holdem

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 2004

chrisbevins - Lead O/S - 2004

MontyH - Lead rpt - 18/Sep/03

Martin - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/03

Martin - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/03

mikeshewring - Lead - 17/Apr/03

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 2003 with Chris Havill

Rockclimber67 - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/01

andybenham - 2001

Jason Gotel - Lead - Aug/00 with Tim Weekes

Fatclimber - Lead dog - Jul/00 with Nigel Cook

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/99

Jacob Ram - Lead - 07/Nov/99 with elisa shub

cem - TR O/S - 23/Oct/99

kp64zl - 2nd - Oct/99 with Philip S

Charlie Williams - Lead O/S - May/99 with Pete Stiffell

Hidden - Lead - 13/Mar/99

Indy Nile - Lead RP - 01/Nov/98 with Trelawny Burt, Jonathan Lewis

A slippery start to this 5 Bolt Route. Quite balancey between 2nd & 3rd bolts. Last move has to be taken in the right order (Left foot first). Had tried TR a number of times, but failed every time before 2B. Took big fall from 3B to 1m above deck. Finally led cleanly.
climbingrev - Lead RP - 30/Sep/98

MontyH - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/98

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead O/S - Jun/98 with CUMC

Gareth - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/97

andyfeds - Lead - 03/Mar/97 with Steve S

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 1997

Scott McRae - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/96 with Steve Lucas

kp64zl - Lead - Jan/96 with James B

tomkhoward - Lead O/S - 1996 with SICMC

Hidden - Lead - 1996

steve taylor - Lead - 1995

Dringo - 1995

kristian - Lead O/S - 1995

jonberry791 - Lead β - 1995

Approx date
Nigel Coe - 1995

r0b - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/94 with Andy Jefferies

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/94

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
shaws, Hidden, MichaelAzzopardi, Hidden, nublet

Voting
Total votes cast 60
hard 6a0 of 22
6a0 of 22
easy 6a5 of 22
hard 5+12 of 22
5+4 of 22
easy 5+1 of 22
hard 50 of 22
50 of 22
easy 50 of 22
3 Stars1 of 38
2 Stars1 of 38
1 Star1 of 38
0 Stars17 of 38
Bag of .....18 of 38
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 224 (0.4%)
Lead174 of 224 (77.7%)
Followed17 of 224 (7.6%)
Toproped20 of 224 (8.9%)
Unknown12 of 224 (5.4%)

'Climbed'65 of 224 (29.0%)
clean O/S81 of 224 (36.2%)
clean β6 of 224 (2.7%)
clean rpt17 of 224 (7.6%)
clean RP11 of 224 (4.9%)
dogged36 of 224 (16.1%)
dnf8 of 224 (3.6%)