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The War of the Wardens 5c

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[Dancing Ledge from The War Of The Wardens, 2 kb]10m. A well-loved and well-used line that has become polished. © ROCKFAX
FA. Mark Williams 17.5.94 17/May/1994

Photo: Dancing Ledge from The War Of The Wardens © jonny_spiderman
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 229 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Climbed before. In heat, hard to read, so knackered came off it. Got back on it to battle it out :-)
andyman666999 - Lead RP - Jun/14 with Cathryn Johnson

sbattams - Lead - 05/May/14 with sarah davies

Fatclimber - Lead dog - 05/May/14 with Steven-B

AdamH - TR - 12/Apr/14

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 20/Aug/13 with Clare

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/13 with Richard

Not much fun
Pete Dangerous - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Kamil

lewiz - Lead rpt - 10/Aug/13 with Pete Gagie

andyclimber - 2nd dog - 03/Aug/13

2 stars for the intricacy and route finding. Again hard on a sweaty day with very dusty holds causing slippage!
sshandy - Lead dog - 03/Aug/13 with MTB Andy Potter, Zoe Pickering

tomB - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Juliette, Jody

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Jun/13

Krista - Lead - 15/Jun/13 with Altai

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

CallumSmith - Lead - Jun/13

Keiran.A - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Tibor

Several easy low routes
Banana Cockroach - TR RP - 26/May/13 with the boys. manda and stephen

JDG2428 - 2nd - 2013

horrible polished route, didnt fancy the lead
the ant hill mob - TR RP - 29/Sep/12

mattshort - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

mr random - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/12 with Lotty, Mike H

lewiz - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Klara Vlckova, Martin Holecek, Kirsten Donovan

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Clare

Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/12

gibsond - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/12 with Jan

Alex Norman - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Jul/12

Ffej - TR dog - 17/Jun/12 with Graeham Whitty

birthers - Lead β - 16/Jun/12 with Caroline C

caroline256 - Lead dog - 16/Jun/12 with Tom B

graemecw - Lead - 16/Jun/12

This was a lot less greasy than the last time I did it.
gibsond - Lead RP - 14/Jun/12 with Paul Jackson

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Jun/12

sam_craddock - Lead dog - 14/Apr/12

Hidden - TR - 14/Apr/12

el_monty - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12 with lydia Mashin

Done once never again...thought this was gash
drewish - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12

Hidden - TR rpt - 11/Feb/12

Stroppy - 2nd - Feb/12 with Tom Bushell

Danny_boulders - Lead β - Jan/12

tombushell - Lead - 2012 with Ed Hastrop

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Dec/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Nov/11

Andrew Taylor - 2nd dog - 15/Oct/11 with Jason Garnham

Hidden - Lead - Oct/11

Hidden - Lead - 25/Sep/11

deejmonkey - Lead - 17/Sep/11

i_a_coops - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11

Beaten by the polish, OH and my lack of skill and strength :-) Next year maybe !!
mungo - Lead dnf - 17/Aug/11 with Liz Ireland

Gazleah - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with linda ford

mrs mungo - 2nd dnf - 17/Aug/11 with mungo

stephen.W-S - Solo - 14/Aug/11

The holds are so hard to hold onto at the start. gets better as the climb goes on.
Hinchrn - TR RP - 31/Jul/11 with Michael Henesy

benren - 2nd dog - 31/Jul/11 with Tom

Blinded by the sun glinting off the rock, teflon coated. Secumed to siege tactics. All three made it in the end.
mikehenesy - Lead dog - 31/Jul/11 with Ben with the tats, Tom Hinchcliffe aka Tom M.

lioness84 - 30/Jul/11

painfully polished... like an ice-rink
alexanderjwatts - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/11

jimecallaw - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with David, Danny

Dannywallcrawler - TR O/S - 02/Jul/11 with jim wallace

Tadams - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11

Chris Redding - Lead dog - 25/Jun/11

Chris Redding - Lead dog - 25/Jun/11

Chris Redding - Lead dog - 25/Jun/11

Chris Redding - Lead RP - 25/Jun/11

So polished! I found this harder than Ozark Mountain Daredevils
davewing - Lead dnf - 11/Jun/11 with Andy H

So polished you can see your face in it!
andyhurford - Lead β - 11/Jun/11 with Dave Wing

lozowen - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11 with Justin Field

gnat - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Wayne Clark

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/May/11

Hidden - TR - May/11

djking1983 - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/11 with Steve Knaggs

karen87 - TR dnf - 06/Apr/11

adambaker - Lead - Apr/11

hp8g12 - Lead - Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

ben51234 - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Mar/11

Hidden - TR O/S - 07/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/11

Got upto the first clip, the route was soaked, loads of seepage. Decided to back off.
Chris Perry - Lead dnf - 08/Jan/11

Matt250 - Lead O/S - 2011

willreddin - TR dog - 2011

jacko1485 - 2nd - 2011

Cold, couldn't feel my fingers.
notclive - Lead dog - 27/Nov/10 with Murray

MontyH - Lead - 13/Nov/10 with Paul Milton

manwithacam - 2nd - 23/Oct/10 with Joris

alexanderjwatts - Lead - 12/Oct/10

rbcr106 - Lead dog - 17/Sep/10

gibsond - Lead dog - 05/Sep/10 with Steve Newman, Pilar Martinez

Some guy wanted his rope putting up to the lower-offs so his son could climb higher up. Didn't realise he didn'e have a harness and was body belaying for his son. Had to get guy to belay me up.
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Jess and Guy

tobydunford - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/10

MD - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/10

Tricky top section
J.Atkins - Lead - 16/Aug/10

TomOsterwold - Lead O/S - Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jul/10

Stuart Johnston - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with Helen White

ollie1 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/10

Manchi - Lead dog - 24/Apr/10 with tim_mcd

tim_mcd - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Manchi

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/10

brian watson - Lead rpt - 02/Jan/10

j miller - 2010

MontyH - Lead - 12/Dec/09 with pete frost

JGW - Lead - Oct/09 with Tall John

Alex Munnery - Lead - 16/Sep/09 with Dave Guilfoyle

Joemanglerocks - Lead dog - 12/Sep/09 with Tim Knight

TimKnight - TR - 12/Sep/09 with Paul Anker

Charlie Evans - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/09 with Phil Roberts, Aggie Moskala

horrible route!
tsyrett - Lead dog - 19/Aug/09

langar27 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Tom Syrett

Ade7 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Liz

More polished than the start of Climber's Club Direct. Terrible route. Not that I have sour grapes after falling off it and watching my wife cruise the route
TonyB - Lead dog - 15/Aug/09 with Gwilym

AnniH - TR - 15/Aug/09 with Gwilym

Hard for the grade and polished
eugeneth - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Ian

Got to second bolt no problem but took a few good falls trying to make the third. It's starting to get very polished now.
JonnyT - Lead dog - 31/Jul/09 with Ferg

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Jul/09

The start, middle and particularly the end was difficult. Really hard for the grade.
Hamish777 - 2nd dog - 26/Jul/09 with Andrea

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09

candicegallab - TR - 03/Jul/09

davespider - Lead - Jul/09 with Laura Barclay

d_meacher - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/09 with David Webster

horribly pollished
Webster - 2nd dog - 16/Jun/09

michpaulatto - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09

so polished that it shines in the sun
SGD - Lead - 22/May/09 with Tom Relf

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/09

bigbobbyking - Lead - 02/May/09

Mozzy - Mar/09 with Dan j

Too cold to make the moves!
Fatclimber - Lead dog - 31/Jan/09 with Dean Chapman

thompson1000 - 2009

trev_f - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Dec/08

MarkRyder - Lead RP - 29/Nov/08 with Rich

nickwhimster - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/08 with Brian Cox

Found big layaway on second attempt.
Scott McRae - TR RP - 27/Sep/08 with Tim Gledhill

MontyH - Lead - 10/Sep/08 with pete frost

rubben - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/08

Could not even get to first bolt.
Steve954 - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/08 with Rich

Got slightly further than leading but still not good
Steve954 - TR dnf - 16/Aug/08 with Rich

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Aug/08

djp1 - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Greg

jez_palmer - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/08

adrianjenner - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08

Monk - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/08 with Mandy

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/08

ArranR - Lead O/S - Apr/08

Kyle F - Lead - Apr/08

vertigo - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Cat Higgs

wet and polished!!!!!!!!!!!
MontyH - Lead - 19/Jan/08 with Lee Lander

Hidden - TR - 19/Jan/08

mark_wellin - Lead - 2008

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 01/Dec/07 with Alistair Everet

mol - 2nd - 01/Dec/07 with Jesse

Alistair Everett - 2nd - 01/Dec/07 with Jesse Dufton

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - Oct/07

chris sm - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/07

pete.hutchings - Lead dog - Aug/07

JPGR - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with Yvette

MontyH - Lead rpt - 07/May/07 with Paul Milton

hapymike - Lead - 07/May/07

Hidden - Lead dog - May/07

trevor macalonan - Lead RP - 05/Apr/07 with Abi

What a grease fest!
tobydunford - Lead dog - 11/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Richard White - 2007

lyneux - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/06 with Laurence Weil

Very, very, very polished, up into 6a due to that fact!!
JDSwain - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/06 with Ben Candlin

MontyH - Lead rpt - 04/Sep/06 with pete frost

Hidden - Lead - 16/Jul/06

winter_burn - TR O/S - 14/Jul/06

MontyH - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/06 with pete frost

Rebecca Buckenham - Lead dog - 15/Jun/06 with Andre

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/06

thelizard - Lead β - 15/Apr/06

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Paul Watkinson

aged_ape - Lead β - Apr/06 with Nige T

feeko - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/05

Rob in a Field - Lead - Jun/05

MontyH - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/05 with Paul Milton

Rokmunky - Lead O/S - Mar/05

Phil Belcher - 2005

Hidden - Lead dog - 2005

Haglington - Lead O/S - Jul/04

runwildjohn - 2nd - 17/Apr/04 with Roger Pleasant, Alice Horton

timharrison - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/04

timharrison - Lead O/S - Mar/04 with Dominic Holdem

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 2004

chrisbevins - Lead O/S - 2004

MontyH - Lead rpt - 18/Sep/03

Martin - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/03

Martin - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/03

mikeshewring - Lead - 17/Apr/03

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 2003 with Chris Havill

Rockclimber67 - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/01

andybenham - 2001

Jason Gotel - Lead - Aug/00 with Tim Weekes

Fatclimber - Lead dog - Jul/00 with Nigel Cook

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/99

Jacob Ram - Lead - 07/Nov/99 with elisa shub

cem - TR O/S - 23/Oct/99

kp64zl - 2nd - Oct/99 with Philip S

Charlie Williams - Lead O/S - May/99 with Pete Stiffell

Hidden - Lead - 13/Mar/99

Indy Nile - Lead RP - 01/Nov/98 with Trelawny Burt, Jonathan Lewis

A slippery start to this 5 Bolt Route. Quite balancey between 2nd & 3rd bolts. Last move has to be taken in the right order (Left foot first). Had tried TR a number of times, but failed every time before 2B. Took big fall from 3B to 1m above deck. Finally led cleanly.
climbingrev - Lead RP - 30/Sep/98

MontyH - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/98

Gareth - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/97

andyfeds - Lead - 03/Mar/97 with Steve S

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 1997

Scott McRae - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/96 with Steve Lucas

kp64zl - Lead - Jan/96 with James B

tomkhoward - Lead O/S - 1996 with SICMC

Hidden - Lead - 1996

steve taylor - Lead - 1995

Dringo - 1995

kristian - Lead O/S - 1995

jonberry791 - Lead β - 1995

Approx date
Nigel Coe - 1995

r0b - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/94 with Andy Jefferies

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/94

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
shaws, Hidden, MichaelAzzopardi, Hidden, nublet

Voting
Total votes cast 60
hard 6a0 of 22
6a0 of 22
easy 6a5 of 22
hard 5c12 of 22
5c4 of 22
easy 5c1 of 22
hard 5a0 of 22
5a0 of 22
easy 5a0 of 22
3 Stars1 of 38
2 Stars1 of 38
1 Star1 of 38
0 Stars17 of 38
Bag of .....18 of 38
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 229 (0.4%)
Lead179 of 229 (78.2%)
Followed17 of 229 (7.4%)
Toproped20 of 229 (8.7%)
Unknown12 of 229 (5.2%)

'Climbed'68 of 229 (29.7%)
clean O/S81 of 229 (35.4%)
clean β6 of 229 (2.6%)
clean rpt17 of 229 (7.4%)
clean RP12 of 229 (5.2%)
dogged37 of 229 (16.2%)
dnf8 of 229 (3.5%)