300m, 7 pitches. VIII 7/8. An outstanding outing which takes a direct line up a series of grooves and corners in the shallow buttress between Imminent Conflict and Broken Ceasefire. Each pitch provide good climbing and the crux pitch is one of the best around giving sustained climbing on torques, hooks and turf with adequate but hard-won gear. Take a good selection of pegs and turf protection.
Start at the direct start for Central Gully Direct.
Chris Parkin & Pete Harrison 17/Feb/2010
Seconded all the hard bits. Climbed during really heavy snow, both Parkin and I found it hard on the crux pitch; subsequent parties have found it much easier - around VI or VII. Choose a bare ass day and it may well be. halfmanhalfbiscuit - AltLd O/S - Feb/10