Californian Arete*** E1 4c
[James Rushforth onsight soloing Californian Arete (E1, 4c), 3 kb]46m.

Rockfax Description
A classic line of the quarries, and a must for any wannabe Slatehead. There is a poor lonely wire above all the hard climbing, and an even worse sling. It is recommended that you trail a rope up to abseil off, although you will need two to reach the ground unless using a 70m. From the blast shelter that runs through the base of the arete, mantel onto the roof and follow a line of juggy hand holds out right to gain the arete, crux. Once on the arete, compose yourself and climb up to reach a heartstoppingly-airy high step. The climbing after this eases even more, and the route switches to the opposite side of the arete. Finish up a short groove on the left side of the arete from a ledge near to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Dinorwig Essentials, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, a State of Slate, UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist.

Photo: James Rushforth onsight soloing Californian Arete (E1, 4c) © James Rushforth
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This climb is in 114 logbooks, and on 44 wishlists.

First half consists of no good gear.
KeenClimber - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/15 with Ian Dugdale

nowhere near as bad as I thought, massive holsd all the way, one hard move low down before you move right then easy trucking and a little tricky to finish
JamesWilliams - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/15

Started on the right...oops
wi11 - Solo O/S - 19/Jun/15

Well decent, fully deserves 3 stars, but spoilt by the ledge after the high step as it interrupts the climbing when you're already in the solo mindset, cosmic
James Beaumont - Solo O/S - 07/Jun/15

alicee - 2nd - 10/Apr/15

Enjoyable but not as good as expecting, exposed gear less very easy climbing/scrambling for the most part with the odd wobbly hold but mostly solid
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/15 with Richard Williams

Dan Geh - TR O/S - 26/Oct/14 with Izzy, CGDStewart, Adam Jordan

AMJ098 - TR O/S - 26/Oct/14 with Charlie stewart, Dan Geh

Hidden - TR O/S - 26/Oct/14

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 28/Jul/14

jamestaylor92 - Solo O/S - 21/Jun/14

Great takes quite a few slings.
greenclimb - Lead O/S - 29/May/14 with Sarah

Stefan_Morris - Solo O/S - 15/May/14

Downclimbed it too to save having to walk all the way around to get my bag. A little trickier on the way down, bulges hide some vital footholds.
shed_hed - Solo rpt - 15/May/14

Joe Innes - Solo O/S - 21/Apr/14

Ed morris - Solo O/S - 19/Apr/14 with -

Pointless to lead
J.Wells - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/14 with Sadie Renwick

Rock a bit wobbly at the top, but otherwise ace.
BenRyle - Solo O/S - 30/Sep/13 with Tim Exley

tim exley - Solo O/S - 30/Sep/13 with ben ryle

tim newton - Solo O/S - 02/Sep/13

Somewhat disappointing.
Paul Figg - Solo - 13/Aug/13

Hidden - Solo - 03/Aug/13

Tom Livingstone - Solo O/S - 30/May/13 with Henry Francis

UncleMephisto - Solo - 11/Mar/13

air - Solo O/S - 2013 with rich

gw3285 - Solo - 04/Nov/12

Lovely. Thanks world for that magnificent climb!
ryangibson92 - Solo β - 07/Oct/12 with Darren Mcmaster1

Nice climb. Warmed up on this, fair to say there is no point leading it!
shed_hed - Solo O/S - 07/Oct/12 with Ryan Gibson

cool climbing can see why people solo it great exposure its not chossy and the climbing is easy.
charlietorrance - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/12 with callum

Hidden - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/12

dan ely - Solo O/S - 05/May/12

FIRST EVER SOLO, epic jug pulling with amazing exposure. Buzzing at the top :-) ***
brew_guru - Solo O/S - 16/Apr/12

Awsome, full cudos to the 2 Mike and Paul Soloing it first
Ross B - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/12 with Paul S

Hidden - 2012

Huw Mithan - 2nd - 10/Jul/11

SAF - 2nd - 02/Jun/11 with katie haston

Rachel Slater - Solo O/S - 01/Jun/11 with Sarah Rixham, Chi Huo Cheng

Chi Cheng - Solo O/S - 01/Jun/11 with Rachel Stater

"Lead" but only found three worthwhile gear placements in the 46m of climbing.. awesome route though.. quite sustained
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Olly

ollyhorst - 2nd O/S - 28/May/11 with mat rust

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/May/11

smallerrich - Solo rpt - 25/May/11 with Franco

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/11

fantastic position. walk off more dangerous than the climb
nadeem - Solo O/S - 05/Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

ColinD - 2011

Hidden - Solo β - 20/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Jun/10

david morse - Solo - 10/Jun/10 with Lawrence

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Jun/10

Nice...pretty sure I was still drunk from the night before which didn't help.
farmus21 - Solo - 07/Mar/10 with Rich Cannell

Really glad I did this, warmed up by soloing solistce and equonix before hand. Not that hard, thinking back I was so needlessly nervous.
Ewan Russell - Solo O/S - 18/Sep/09 with Myself!

beci tointen - Solo O/S - Jul/09 with Jamie Kean

mr mills - Solo - 28/May/09

All about the exposure
smallerrich - Solo O/S - 23/Apr/09 with Me

Rachel Stroud - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Noodles

Scary but fun non the less
Noodles - Lead - 22/Apr/09 with Rachel "Piglet" Shroud

Hidden - Solo O/S - 22/Apr/09

Klingon - 2nd - 22/Apr/09 with Tim Neill (PYB)

midnightsparks - 2nd - 22/Apr/09 with Tim Neill (PYB)

Hidden - Solo O/S - 18/Apr/09

Hidden - Solo rpt - 11/Apr/09

climbingpixie - Solo O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Andy Hobson

Steady enough clmbing. Good exposure and an impressive solo for E1 leaders.
Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Steve Ramsden

Ram MkiV - Solo O/S - 15/Mar/09

Sally Lisle - 2009

Hidden - Solo - Oct/08

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/Sep/08

Hidden - Solo O/S - 30/Aug/08

Unnecessary nervousness distilled into mild fear! Excellent climb.
Cragrat Rich - Solo O/S - 20/Jun/08

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Jun/08

the juicy dangler - Solo O/S - 08/Jun/08

Sgt. Vest - Solo O/S - 06/Jun/08

Sgt. Vest - Solo O/S - 06/Jun/08

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Jun/08

Brown - Solo O/S - 13/May/08

Hidden - Solo O/S - 02/May/08

Matt Vigg - Solo - 2008

Hidden - Solo - 2008

tumbling wizard - 2008

tumbling wizard - 2008

Pretty much a solo. More like HVS as there are no moves harder than 4c on the route.
Oliver Sherman - Lead - 01/Sep/07 with Ian Frith

Renegade_Pony - 15/Jun/07 with Sean Barron Malone

benchwarmer - 2nd - Jun/07 with Owen Barnicott, Justin Hughes

Nicos - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/07 with rich howels

barni - Solo O/S - 2007 with Paul James

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2007

C coldwell-storry - Solo O/S - 2007 with Adam Gill

Hidden - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Suzie Wilson - 2nd - 2006 with pete

Nice exposed arete climbing - just don't fall!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Solo O/S - 2004

Nice exposed arete climbing - just don't fall!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Solo O/S - 2004

Dringo - 2003

paul m hadley - Solo - 2001

WB - Solo O/S - Sep/00

MjrTom - Solo O/S - Jul/99

Tim W - Lead O/S - 24/May/99 with Will Frost

Chad123 - 1999

BenTiffin - Lead - 23/Sep/98 with Graham Bromley

Neil Curtis - 2nd - 25/Jul/98 with Glenn Kelly

kristian - 2nd O/S - 1996

Nigel R Lewis - 2nd - 22/Jul/95 with Gary Lewis

Hidden - Solo O/S - 1993

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 14/Dec/91 with Pam Holt

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 04/May/91 with Rowan

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 22/Mar/90

Billg - Solo O/S - 1990

Hidden - 2nd - 16/May/87

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jamie Skelton, KeenClimber, Larey, jordangolding, Oliver.Pickup, mapperley samurai, badgerjockey, MichaelGallimore, Fatmanscoop, climbEdclimb, humptydumpty, Dean177, Sol Armer, ojgrant, Barrez, Rebecca Earnshaw, bpempire, Just Another Dave, rustaldo, Dan Lane, ben360, jezb1, a13x, willotheward, gd303uk, Superchop75, Oliver Branagan, ChalkBall, sgl0jd

Total votes cast 87
hard E20 of 29
E20 of 29
easy E20 of 29
hard E10 of 29
E19 of 29
easy E117 of 29
hard HVS2 of 29
HVS0 of 29
easy HVS1 of 29
hard 5a0 of 29
5a0 of 29
easy 5a0 of 29
hard 4c0 of 29
4c4 of 29
easy 4c18 of 29
hard 4b6 of 29
4b1 of 29
easy 4b0 of 29
3 Stars25 of 29
2 Stars4 of 29
1 Star0 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat