UKC

11m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the central pillar, moving right to a lower-off. Unstable. © Rockfax

FA. Stephen Woods 2003.

Ticklists

Winspit Sport Climbs , Swanage Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
thehonestwanderer 20 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Easier for a shorter climber for sure. The gap between the main shelf and the roof is easier to rest on with short limbs. Rest before stepping the right foot out onto the west facing wall to save your arms for the laid back moves.
Show beta
βeta: Easier for a shorter climber for sure. The gap between the main shelf and the roof is easier to rest on with short limbs. Rest before stepping the right foot out onto the west facing wall to save your arms for the laid back moves.
treesrockice 18 Feb, 2018 Show βeta
βeta: NOW UNSTABLE !!!!!!!!!! Chest sized block detatched!!!!!!! Lead the route leaving the draws in for my partner to climb afterwards. Using slightly different beta he climbed to about the height of the lip of the cave, at which point he pulled on a block a little before the first clip which detached. Managed to half catch him and get both of us out the way safely although the block landed on my rope mashing 15-20m of it. It is possible that this block was supporting others above it so the entire start of the route may now be compromised. Would be good if someone who knows more about rock quality could confirm.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: NOW UNSTABLE !!!!!!!!!! Chest sized block detatched!!!!!!! Lead the route leaving the draws in for my partner to climb afterwards. Using slightly different beta he climbed to about the height of the lip of the cave, at which point he pulled on a block a little before the first clip which detached. Managed to half catch him and get both of us out the way safely although the block landed on my rope mashing 15-20m of it. It is possible that this block was supporting others above it so the entire start of the route may now be compromised. Would be good if someone who knows more about rock quality could confirm.
Alex More 29 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Is it safe to climb?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is it safe to climb?

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pregnant Pause

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor Central)

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