Rockfax Description
Classy climbing with a definite crux section. Reaching the lower-off is a touch bold. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 31.12.87 31/Dec/1987

Ticklists: A Guide for Progress in Dorset, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Winspit apprenticeship, SW Climbs - Swanage, Winspit Sport Climbs.

BenL 25/May Lead rpt
with Angus Webb
Linc 07/May Lead rpt
with Kay
alexspurling 30/Apr Lead RP

Very fun. The run outs make it another route altogether but falls are clean. 2nd try.

Laurence Everitt 23/Apr Lead RP
Edward Kwong 09/Apr Lead RP

Tried on top rope a year ago on first ever sport trip. Nice that the moves still came back and sent first go. Underrated route of the crag, though tricky for the short.

Martin Bagshaw 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Rafal Malczyk
Rafal Malczyk 11/Oct/15 TR O/S
with Martin Bagshaw
Ramon Marin 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with viki harvey
jonleighton 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
ian d f 07/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Richard J
Neal Jobling 18/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Dom
Wise 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Exciting at the top.

with Nev
Hidden 28/Jul/15 Lead dnf
AJM 08/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/15 Lead dog
Monkey_Alan 03/Jul/15 TR rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/15 TR RP
etrillaud 21/Jun/15 Lead dnf
chris_woodsy 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Adamwillclimb 19/Jun/15 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Jun/15 Lead RP
ian d f 09/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Adam, Richard J
goi.ashmore 27/May/15 Lead O/S
with Alice Howe
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead O/S
Wendy 24/May/15 Lead O/S
with Tom Ball
felixizzy 23/May/15 Lead dog
with Bernard
ian d f 21/May/15 Lead dog

Got pumped and scared near the top and rested. Should get it clean next time if I'm not so wimpy, not to difficult.

with Richard J
MontyH 20/May/15 Lead dnf
with Brian
MontyH 20/May/15 TR
brian watson 20/May/15 2nd
with Hobbsey
tsyrett 16/May/15 Lead rpt
tsyrett 16/May/15 Lead rpt
jjdaly 16/May/15 Lead dog
jjdaly 16/May/15 TR dog
elliptic 04/May/15 Lead β
with Nicky
rachelvlc 04/May/15 2nd
paultaylor 20/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
anthony henry 05/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Ali
drifterjoe ?/Apr/15 Lead dog
Matti Puckridge ?/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 01/Mar/15 Lead dog
CristinaB 18/Jan/15 TR dog
Beefy Bert ??/2015 Lead RP
La Mont 06/Dec/14 -
with John Hogan
Shane Willis 30/Nov/14 Lead RP

1st redpoint, really nice route!

Hidden 29/Nov/14 Lead O/S
philhaigh 06/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Steve Hau, Mike Gubbins, Barry Kerslake, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Gem Minihan, Natalie Haigh
Gem Minihan 06/Sep/14 TR dog
with Vic Hau, Mike Hawkins, Steve Hau, Barry Kerslake, Nat Haigh, Phil Haigh
philhaigh 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Mike Gubbins, Barry Kerslake, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Gem Minihan, Natalie Haigh
Gem Minihan 05/Sep/14 TR dog
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Aug/14 Lead dog
Swampy167 09/Aug/14 Lead dnf

No fingers left for the top move! Great line though.

Hidden 09/Aug/14 TR dog
Hidden 12/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead β
Alex Hallam 14/Jun/14 Lead dog

Still too hard, must return with better tekkers.

rustaldo 14/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Quite straightforward when you know where all the good holds are, no distinct crux but sustained.

with Alex
Alex Hallam 01/Jun/14 TR dog

Almost got it in a oner, but fell at the last move. Cracking route though and will be back to bag it once and for all.

rustaldo 01/Jun/14 Lead RP

First RP (sort of). Quite good moves, no real crux but quite full on from 2nd bolt onwards.

with Alex
Hidden 23/May/14 Lead RP
will moy 12/May/14 Lead RP
with tom thorne
Hidden 12/May/14 Lead dog
lewiz 11/May/14 Lead rpt
paultaylor 06/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/May/14 2nd rpt
AlexD 18/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 18/Apr/14 Lead dog
Luxulyan 18/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Alex, Sophie
feilx 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt
BenL 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
Shane Willis ??/2014 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2014 Lead RP
tsyrett 01/Dec/13 Lead RP

A great route for a first 6c, love the bold finish

trev_f 24/Nov/13 Lead rpt
tsyrett 24/Nov/13 TR β
Nick Clement 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
Luxulyan 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
ardzeiem 15/Jun/13 2nd
with Nic
paultaylor 07/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/13 Lead O/S
anthony henry 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Nov/12 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Nov/12 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Nov/12 Lead dog
Ian Ash 27/Oct/12 Lead RP
Marti999 22/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Debbie
debbie roberts 22/Oct/12 2nd
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt
drewish 13/Oct/12 Lead β
Hidden 22/Sep/12 TR dog
drewish 07/Sep/12 TR O/S

Didnt think i was warm enough to jump on lead at the time...nevermind. Brilliant

Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 12/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Wayne Gaudin, Dean Merchant
Wayne.Gaudin 12/Aug/12 Lead dog

Two failures, but at least I got to the top this time

with Dean and Dibben
Dean177 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Wayne Gaudin, Alan Dibben
gibsond 06/Aug/12 Lead rpt

Second go for my first clean accent of this route this year.

gibsond 03/Aug/12 Lead dog

Still struggling to get this clean this year....need to climb more!!!

Hidden 29/Jul/12 TR dog
Hidden 29/Jul/12 TR dnf
Hidden 27/Jul/12 TR dog
Linc 17/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Dibdawg 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Wayne Gaudin
Wayne.Gaudin 15/Jul/12 Lead dog

buggered after Chrissy!

with Dibben
Stuart Johnston 24/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Ian, Daniel Tipton
Linc 20/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 22/May/12 TR rpt
gibsond 22/May/12 Lead dog

Struggled to get it clean tonight.

Sami Mandeel 04/May/12 Lead dog
Monkey_Alan 24/Apr/12 TR rpt
Sophie Nunn 24/Apr/12 TR dnf
with Scott
gibsond 24/Apr/12 Lead dog

No strong enough yet this season.

Hidden 24/Apr/12 TR
lewiz 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 18/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Alex, Toby
Toby Dunn 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Alex Dennis, Sophie Nunn
Graham Westbrook 01/Feb/12 Lead
adam 24 ?/Jan/12 Lead β
Hidden ??/2012 Lead RP
RadekNowak ??/2012 Lead RP
Sami Mandeel 18/Dec/11 Lead RP
with Rob
MarkRyder 22/Oct/11 Lead RP
with Ivan M
Hidden 29/Sep/11 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Sep/11 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 18/Sep/11 Lead β
with daniel, darryl
gibsond 18/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Much smoother than RP ascent.

Hidden 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Chris_barr 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Theo, Bob
gibsond 29/Aug/11 Lead RP

Finally got it :-)) Used new sequence for my feet and felt fairly easy this time and got it first go.

gibsond 16/Aug/11 Lead dog

Another two attempts. Still struggling to make the move up from the last bolt.

Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
chakrit 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
gibsond 26/Jul/11 Lead dog

Attempt 1: got feet wrong on crux and could not seem to sort out. Attempt 2: Hold broke off!!!! Attempt 3: Too tired.

Sophie Nunn 26/Jul/11 TR rpt
with Darrel
brian watson 26/Jul/11 TR rpt
with anne marie sheppard
gibsond 19/Jul/11 Lead dog

Worked out the crux sequence again and top moves to the lower-off so hope to get this next time

with Anne-Marie Sheppard
Hidden 15/Jul/11 Lead rpt
littleluke 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead dog
gibsond 14/Jun/11 Lead dog

I seem to be getting worse on this one! A bad night.

Gareth 03/Jun/11 TR

Feeling weak

with Mark
gibsond 31/May/11 TR dnf

Too tired!

with Neil Weymouth
Sophie Nunn 31/May/11 Lead dog
with Brian
Sophie Nunn 31/May/11 TR dog
with Brian
brian watson 31/May/11 TR rpt
Sophie Nunn 26/May/11 Lead dog
with Alex
Hidden 24/May/11 TR RP
Monkey_Alan 24/May/11 Lead RP

Got it! A slight heistation at the crux meant I was too pumped to make the final mantle and took a good fall onto the bolt. After a good rest, set off again and charged through the crux before making the top with relative ease. Great route!

ardzeiem 21/May/11 TR dnf
with Yasmina
Ducks Rock 18/May/11 TR
with Si
gibsond 17/May/11 TR dog

Have now got the sequence through the crux worked out. Afterwards was too tired to put it all together. Next time!

Monkey_Alan 17/May/11 TR

Tried leading again, had trouble getting *to* the crux! Watched Brian climb it, then TRed via his sequence, which felt much better.

brian watson 17/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/May/11 TR dog
Monkey_Alan 10/May/11 Lead dog
Hidden 05/May/11 TR dog
Monkey_Alan 05/May/11 TR

TRed clean. Will lead next time.

Sophie Nunn 05/May/11 TR dog
with Alex
Hidden 03/May/11 Lead O/S
cayteye 02/May/11 TR dog

one for redpointing one day?

Jon Rabey 02/May/11 Lead O/S
with Dave, Nat, Steve
Linc ?/May/11 Lead RP
Monkey_Alan 27/Apr/11 TR dog

Nearly worked it out, just need to keep strength to be able to make the top moves

with Darrell Gibson, Oli Dorrell
gibsond 27/Apr/11 TR dog
with Mungo Etwo, Alan Blanchflower
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead dnf
gibsond 22/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 21/Apr/11 Lead dnf
nath_casper 09/Apr/11 Lead dog
with mikey
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead RP
Ali.B ?/Apr/11 Lead dog
nath_casper 05/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with jason
brian watson 21/Nov/10 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 07/Nov/10 Lead dnf

just not feeling it today

with gary
Marti999 31/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with Harry Massey
London Luke 26/Sep/10 Lead
Gareth 10/Sep/10 TR RP
with Mark
Andrew Barker 10/Sep/10 Lead β
with Si
Gareth 03/Sep/10 TR

3 times

with on shunt
Sophie Nunn 14/Aug/10 Lead RP
with Martin
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 08/Aug/10 Lead RP
Dandan82 08/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Jul/10 TR rpt
Hidden 27/Jun/10 AltLd dog
thomasmouse 25/Jun/10 Lead dog
clarky 23/Jun/10 Lead RP
searla 23/Jun/10 TR
with Rob Clark
tew105 19/Jun/10 Lead dog
natalietanzer 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with marcus, jon
JPGR 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
steve taylor 29/May/10 -
with Steve Williams
The Jazz Butcher 09/May/10 Lead rpt
with Ben
candicegallab 25/Apr/10 2nd dog
mark_wellin 25/Apr/10 Lead RP

did it fine this time, quite easy, bomber jug just when you need it

Ceridwen 23/Apr/10 TR dog

Very close to being able to do this, should come back and work it. Good route nice moves, a bit run out at the top.

with Uber Mike
feilx 01/Jan/10 Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 01/Jan/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Jane Weir ??/2010 Lead
crispygts ??/2010 -
JonS 22/Dec/09 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 01/Oct/09 TR
Hidden 06/Sep/09 2nd dog
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Aug/09 TR dog
sammo247 15/Aug/09 TR O/S
AlexD 07/Aug/09 Lead RP
briar4012 04/Aug/09 TR dog
with Marti
Jeronimo 22/Jul/09 Lead O/S
sam8oy 21/Jul/09 Lead O/S
trev_f 02/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Mike H
vertigo 06/Jun/09 Lead RP
andy jennings 06/Jun/09 TR dog
dmoir 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Big Andy
TiffTiff 06/Jun/09 TR dog
with Big A
JPGR ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Yvette
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
sam_cox 27/Dec/08 Lead β
breed 10/Dec/08 Lead RP
Kyle F ?/Dec/08 TR
Marti999 28/Aug/08 Lead rpt
with Chris Rollins
Hidden 18/Aug/08 Lead dog
ThomasB ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
tobydunford 26/May/08 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 08/May/08 Lead RP
The Jazz Butcher 30/Mar/08 Lead rpt
Matt Bennett 10/Feb/08 Lead dog
Docent 26/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with stecu
Dorset ??/2008 TR dnf
with Neil Weymouth
btc 15/Dec/07 Lead
with Crazy Tom
Hidden 04/Nov/07 Lead rpt
Dorset ?/Sep/07 TR

didn't make it!

Hidden 04/Aug/07 2nd dog
MontyH 16/Jun/07 TR
with Brian and Paul
dannyboy83 11/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Richard Horn 14/Apr/07 Lead RP
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
chrisbevins ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/06 Lead dog
bigie bob 05/Apr/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson ?/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with eddie church
Hidden 30/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
brian watson ??/2006 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 07/Apr/04 TR β
Hidden 13/Sep/02 Lead dog
Roget 29/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
migs493 15/Mar/98 TR β
with Steve Blake
Hidden 25/Mar/95 Lead RP
steve taylor ??/1995 Lead
Nigel Coe 31/Dec/87 2nd

FA, trad

with Pete Oxley
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
selman, AlexBush, Hidden, mikewiggs, Hidden, Dan_Carroll, marcduhig, Dorset
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set