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Footless Gully* IV 4

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[Abseiling down the initial chimney pitch, 3 kb]150m, 4 pitches. Coireag Dubh Beag, Liathach. Start in the very obvious narrow chimney slot. The first pitch is the crux and the rest of the gully is much more open and has a nice final ice pitch.
C and A S Rowland Feb/1977

Photo: Abseiling down the initial chimney pitch © Mr. K
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This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

We abbed off after the first pitch because the ice was steep, thin and brittle. Needs some freeze/thaw to fatten it up.
Mr. K - 2nd dnf - 01/Apr/13 with Masa Sakano

Kyle started leading the P1 on ice formed at the left of the chimney, but eventually climbed back down, and I took over. Ice was thin in most places, particularly the ice column, which required a very delicate climbing. There were a few overhanging bulge to negotiate, where the ice conditions weren't great, either. It was poorly protected and scary all the way to the top. VI 6? Actually the chimney might have been climbable (we didn't look). We abbed off after P1.
masa-alpin - Lead dnf - 01/Apr/13 with Kyle

A great climb, wasn't enough ice on the 1st pitch so climbed the ledges on the left side to get to the first snow ramp
rodders24 - AltLd - 20/Feb/11 with Jonny Young

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Mar/10

colinthrelfall - AltLd - 2010 with beads

Not sure on the year, but pretty certain it was NY's eve. Had to traverse in above some of the first pitch due to lack of ice IIRC.
TobyA - Lead O/S - 31/Dec/98 with Ed, Olly

phardman - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/96 with Jon Bibby

Voting
Total votes cast 8
hard V0 of 3
V0 of 3
easy V0 of 3
hard IV1 of 3
IV2 of 3
easy IV0 of 3
hard III0 of 3
III0 of 3
easy III0 of 3
hard 50 of 3
51 of 3
easy 51 of 3
hard 41 of 3
40 of 3
easy 40 of 3
hard 30 of 3
30 of 3
easy 30 of 3
3 Stars0 of 2
2 Stars1 of 2
1 Star1 of 2
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