80m, 4 pitches.
A loose route up the SW (landward) arete (The title gives it away).
1. 35m 4b Start from a series if small ledges at the base of the arete. After a few metres step right and after 2m move back to the arete. Climb this through loose ground to a large ledge at 25m. Climb the wall and precarious groove/short crack above to another large ledge.
2. 15m 4a Traverse along the landward side for 5m and climb the wall to belay beneath the arete of the SW summit.
3. 15m 4b Climb steeply ground to the top and traverse the summit to belay amongst blocks.
4. 15m Down climb from SW summit and up onto the NE summit.
1. 35m 4b Start from a series if small ledges at the base of the arete. After a few metres step right and after 2m move back to the arete. Climb this through loose ground to a large ledge at 25m. Climb the wall and precarious groove/short crack above to another large ledge.
2. 15m 4a Traverse along the landward side for 5m and climb the wall to belay beneath the arete of the SW summit.
3. 15m 4b Climb steeply ground to the top and traverse the summit to belay amongst blocks.
4. 15m Down climb from SW summit and up onto the NE summit.
Ross I Jones, Roy Plenderleith 13/Jul/2002.
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Route of Interest
A Bridge Too Far
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Tarbet Sea Cliffs)