UKC

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
15m.

Rockfax Description
6b, S0. A real marmite line - some will love it, others not! At low tide, traverse across to the left corner of the arch. Graunch up the greasy chimney to join Horny Lil' Devil. © Rockfax

FSA. Damian Cook, who else! 1990s.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 18 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of the greatest routes of our times, a must for any aspiring masochist who lusts for more and more thrutch...or something like that...
βeta?
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βeta: One of the greatest routes of our times, a must for any aspiring masochist who lusts for more and more thrutch...or something like that...
steve taylor 20 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I believe the word he may have used was "fantastic"
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I believe the word he may have used was "fantastic"

Logged Ascents

33 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Lulworth

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 1
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
DWS
Soloed
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Russian Roulette

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Cave Hole)

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