110m, 3 pitches.
This route climbs the broken buttress high up on the right of Central Couloir and left of Brown Gully via the front face of the prominent tower. Start at the bottom left side of the buttress below a turfy groove just left of the first tower.
1. 25m Climb the turfy groove trending right to a chimney; climb this to the top of the first tower.
2. 25m Traverse left along the ledge on to the front face of the second tower. Climb a black groove and traverse hard left until established in the steep cracks in the middle of the face. Climb these (crux) and continue in the same line to the top of the tower.
3 etc. 60m Climb the broken buttress above to the top.
1. 25m Climb the turfy groove trending right to a chimney; climb this to the top of the first tower.
2. 25m Traverse left along the ledge on to the front face of the second tower. Climb a black groove and traverse hard left until established in the steep cracks in the middle of the face. Climb these (crux) and continue in the same line to the top of the tower.
3 etc. 60m Climb the broken buttress above to the top.
E.Brunskill, D.Morris 22/Dec/2001.
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Route of Interest
Ice Bomb with The Mind Bomb Finish
Grade: V ***
(Beinn Dearg)