UKC

140m, 5 pitches. Based on the narrow chimney line right of Raeburn's Buttress Direct and which cuts directly through The Jigsaw. The chimney, which is hidden from below, feeds ice into a groove which is rarely in condition. Amixed line near the groove is the current start. Start up the groove but immediately move right. Climb steep ground about 3m right of the groove before stepping into it. Climb the groove to a bay (20m). Vertical ice leads into the chimney but a mixed line just left gains a ledge. Crawl right to the chimney and follow it to the top of the ramp on The Jigsaw and below the upper chimney (20m). Two steep steps in the upper chimney (crux - 30m) and the easier continuation of the line (40m) lead to the crest and the short pitch as above to the top of the steep section of the buttress (20m).
The original start climbs the blocky rib on the left of the groove, leading into the top of the Jigsaw ramp, followed rightwards back to the upper chimney-line.

M.E.Moran, A.Nisbet 04/Dec/1997.

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The Ice Hose

Grade: V 4 ***
(Beinn Dearg)

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