Central Sadness*** E5 6a

Rockfax Description
Possibly the best route of its grade in the quarries. Start below a thin crack to the right of a tapering groove.
1) 6a, 25m. The bold first pitch starts with a tricky move to gain the crack, follow it more easily to a ledge below a recess. Move up on slopers to a spike (sling), and then commit to gaining the wall above. Head up this, moving right near the top, to a two-bolt belay.
2) 6a, 32m. The better protected second pitch moves up and right from the belay towards a crack. Once gained, follow it (very small cams are helpful) in an amazing position, until you make a difficult move to gain a larger crack that leads up and right towards the top of the crag. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, a State of Slate, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, slate E5's, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's.

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This climb is in 42 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

led 2nd pitch, well protected, felt like easy 6b not knowing how to climb cracks!
jacob shieldhouse hadley - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/15 with callum muskett

pete johnson - Lead O/S - 01/May/15 with Paul Drew

Scary but steady. Will be back soon for the lead.
MischaHY - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/15 with Joe Heeley, James Mcaffie

davebrox - 2nd - 16/Apr/15

Class route. I did p1. Steady climbing prob no 6a moves but the gear is pretty poor all the way after the first crack. Great p2
breed - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/15

HAJ Francis - Lead O/S - Apr/15

Two pitches, led as one pitch, small nuts and wires, three long slings, selection of tricams, small friends for top pitch!
waynekinrade - Lead G/U - Oct/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/14

jamestaylor92 - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Ed morris

Led the bold first pitch. Good climbing through the blocky overlaps.
Ed morris - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/14 with James Taylor

One point of aid
Dan Vaj - 2nd β - 09/Jul/14 with Khalid, James Machaffie

Actually I came off whilst struggling to down climb to unhook some gear, but it was close enough for me to claim. The line was amazing. A couple of hard moves.
khalidq - 2nd β - 09/Jul/14 with James Mchaffie, Dan Vajzovic

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Will N

really good. Must have been having a good slate day, felt really easy. Did it quite late in the evening and finished in the dark...it was a bit tricky to find small slate footholds seconding the top pitch in almost complete darkness! maybe i'll remember a head torch next time...
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with gwen lancashire

cameronmcloughlin - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/13 with Henry Cowan, james mchaffie

Awesome route. Happy to have got the second pitch lead rather than the first as it is bold off the deck
morganator - AltLd - 02/May/13 with Calum Muskett

I lead the second pitch. If you can get of the ground you can definitely climb the route. an absolutely brilliant route that is never desperate, the crack looks brutal from below, but is easy enough once your there. will do this many more times.
willoates - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Murdoch

Bob - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/11

This route never disappoints. Soft for E5 by slate standards
Steve Long - Lead - Jun/11 with MIke Pycroft

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

phil64 - 2011

2nded 1st pitch, felt appehensive about the 2nd pitch but went for the lead....steady but bold up to the crack...hard moves into the crack, but felt good, then chilled at the large flake, placed some gear and went up the crack, brilliant climbing, got a cam in but felt super-committed due to the lack of footholds, kept going but fell as I was going to the jug! Awesome route, seconded Mason up it but was cold so plled on a couple of cams in the crack.
Duncan Campbell - 2nd - 31/Oct/10 with Mason

Brilliant route, led both pitches. !st pitch, i started across to the right up a vertical crack to gain big ledge. From here the climbing is bold, there is gear but no inspiring pieces, even the spike looks like it could rip, However, the climbing is brilliant, sustained, but never goey. 2nd pitch is more straight forward with some superb finger jamming.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/10 with Duncan Campbell

barni - 2nd rpt - 17/Jul/10

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Andy Reeve

Lead both pitches.
barni - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/09 with Liam fleming

Liam FLeming - 2nd O/S - 30/Sep/09 with barni

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/08

Hidden - 2006

Davros the Psyched - AltLd O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/04

Dringo - 2003

PaulHermes - 1997

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/96 with Nick Ashton

keefe - 21/Sep/91

chrisdavies - Lead O/S - Sep/91

Steve Walker - Lead - Sep/89 with jason cain

Mike Owen - 31/May/87 with Bob Drury

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Callum van Werkhoven, harry_lewis, markalmack, Adam Booth, stony, Dan724, DavidR, richiebongo, Billg, rustaldo, Dan Lane, Mike Goldthorp, Alex Mason, IOAN D

Total votes cast 47
hard E60 of 17
E60 of 17
easy E60 of 17
hard E50 of 17
E510 of 17
easy E54 of 17
hard E41 of 17
E41 of 17
easy E41 of 17
hard 6b0 of 15
6b0 of 15
easy 6b0 of 15
hard 6a1 of 15
6a12 of 15
easy 6a2 of 15
hard 5c0 of 15
5c0 of 15
easy 5c0 of 15
3 Stars15 of 15
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U