Greater Manchester > Hobson Moor Quarry >
 
Gideon* VS 5a

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[Start of Paul's lead on Gideon, 3 kb]14m. Balance up the steep arete to reach a short ramp and climb this to a good but short-lived jamming crack. © ROCKFAX
FA. Paul Nunn 1960

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors).

Photo: Start of Paul's lead on Gideon © Kendrick
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 295 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

mcb - Lead - 20/Aug/14 with Sally Byrne, Miles Ridley

jimbonfire - 09/Aug/14

Nails. Had 2nd'd this a few years ago and found it a struggle. On the lead this time found it a real struggle again. Fell off trying to get on the ramp by leaning left then did it ok leaning right. Then found the crack really hard and too narrow to jam adequately. Determination prevailed and after falling twice (!) made it by a long reach to the ledge. Bad effort but the gear was good. Defo HVS.
Julian Lane - Lead dog - 20/May/14 with Steve Pepper

John Gale - Lead O/S - 05/May/14

monkeyman79 - 2nd O/S - 05/May/14 with Jon Hubbard

Hidden - Solo - 27/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/14

Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/14 with Vic, Matt

Climbster - 2nd β - 19/Jan/14 with Ian

AndyPratt88 - 2nd - 2014 with Jim

Breezed the lower section. pulled up onto the crack to find nowt but greasy footholds. whacked a cam in, rested, tried again, failed. abbed for gear.
BenedictIEP - Lead dnf - 01/Dec/13 with Sam Carey

Surprisingly dry bar the odd damp hold. It started to hose down just after I topped out so it wasn't so much fun for Graham.
cem - Lead rpt - 27/Oct/13 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/13

very reachy!
Beth-Cath-T - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/13 with Emma

A real struggle today. Must be getting old!
HB1 - Lead rpt - 07/Aug/13 with KB

Brown - Solo - 03/Aug/13 with Andy R

kkris - Lead rpt - 01/Aug/13 with Jerome

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/13

Feels more difficult than it is. Needed more quickdraws than I brought and really needed a 50m rope to belay properly. Still, we managed
Al Urker - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/13

alias dave - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Dan Allen

Sammydainty - TR dnf - 04/Jul/13

kkris - Lead dog - 04/Jul/13 with Graham

cjbaker - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Peachy, Alvaro

Followed Chris up. Couldn't work the jam but managed to layback the crack
peachos - 2nd β - 30/Jun/13 with Chris Baker, Alvaro

jordan taylor - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

Alan Dixon - 2nd - 02/Jun/13 with Jordan

j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

Hidden - Jun/13

j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 31/May/13

JM0rrison - Lead O/S - 27/May/13

snapperdan - 2nd O/S - May/13

David Kay - 2nd - 30/Apr/13 with Moritz Lesserman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/13

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/13 with paul whitehead

Chris Manasseh - Lead - 20/Apr/13 with John Armstrong

jvarmstrong - 2nd - 20/Apr/13 with Chris

BTphonehome - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Kasha

kasha_gregson - 2nd - 07/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/13

Harder than Parkers, but then I don't like jamming
wi11 - Lead β - 05/Apr/13 with Duncan C, Owain Atkins

owain86 - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/13 with Will, Duncan

Felt harder than Parker's at the bottom. Surprised it gets VS here. Brilliant climbing though.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/13 with Will hardy, Owain

Seconded as a warm up. Bad choice to start on. Definitely harder than Parkers.
BenPitt - 2nd - 01/Apr/13

cmars89 - Lead - 2013 with Jake rowarth

Hidden - 2nd RP - 2013

Frank the Husky - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hardonicus - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Luke Donaldson

sputnik - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/12 with Mrs Z

ozzie35 - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/12 with Steve Graham, dave dillon

Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/Sep/12

mikephilrob - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12

petellis - 2nd rpt - 02/Sep/12 with Caroline, The short fuse, Sloth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/12

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/12 with rob dyer

Rob84 - 2nd rpt - 30/Aug/12 with Stu Inchley

stoo2k - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/12 with Craig

mwatson - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/12

Somerset swede basher - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/12

David Shelmerdine - TR rpt - 07/Jul/12 with Craig Oates

sgl - Lead - 05/Jul/12 with Clare

cra1gm0nkey - TR β - 30/Jun/12

Olli-C - 2nd rpt - 27/Jun/12 with chi

Rachel Slater - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/12 with Andrea Morgan

Fragmod - Lead - 18/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Jun/12

manwithacam - 2nd - 13/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/12

Ben HW - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/12 with Nathan Foster

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/12

Did this on a TR with a friend on his first time outside. This is a top end VS, would try leading this, gear seems to be available.
David Shelmerdine - TR O/S - 29/May/12 with Jason Hollins

The first half went OK, although it's quite bold. Couldn't get the headwall crack to go. Later saw Chris layback it, rather than jam, but I was too tired to try again. It ain't a VS.
steveth - Lead dnf - 25/May/12 with Chris Roberts

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/12

nathan foster - 2nd β - 23/May/12 with ben

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 14/May/12

g1m147 - 2nd - 13/May/12 with Mick.

gavinpeach - Lead dnf - 02/May/12 with David Shelmerdine

How does this get VS and parkers eliminate gets HVS? Its harder and has less gear.
Olli-C - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Rachel Slater

Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Olli Crudge

crag_hopper_Jay - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/12 with MeirionT

Jeromecooper - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/12

OliBangbala - AltLd β - 26/Mar/12 with Jerome

proper crux on this
caradoc - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/12 with nick yapp

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Mar/12

georgenvk - TR rpt - 23/Feb/12

gw3285 - TR - 01/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/12

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jan/12

adie84 - 2012

ste_d - Solo rpt - 09/Nov/11

attack the crack - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Katy Vose

JonnoP - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11 with Jo Ramsden

gw3285 - 2nd - 28/Sep/11

Good route, given HVS in guide and definitely harder than Parker's
Whealiebob - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/11 with Terry

very stiff at vs.
Milne - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/11 with Dave

Ally Smith - Solo - 25/Sep/11

mikedelderfield - Solo rpt - 17/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/11

ste_d - Solo rpt - 15/Sep/11

antroy - Lead - 14/Sep/11

georgenvk - TR RP - 09/Sep/11

David Shelmerdine - TR - 30/Aug/11 with paul

999thAndy - Lead rpt - 25/Aug/11

ste_d - Solo rpt - 14/Aug/11

cmars89 - Lead - 13/Aug/11 with Pete Duckworth

zephr - 13/Aug/11

ste_d - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/11

Leo Woodhead - Lead - 28/Jul/11

eddzzz - TR O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Daniel Higham

ste_d - Solo rpt - 11/Jul/11

Found the top crack tough on the top rope, and took aaaaages to commit on the lead. Worth it when I did. Getting to the ramp is a bit of a challenge but have confidence in your feet.
Plenk - Lead RP - Jul/11 with Jim

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/11

monika paprzycka - Lead - 19/Jun/11 with Jeremy Axford

Carl Smethurst - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/11 with Los Kenney

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/11

greglad - 25/May/11

Hidden - 2nd - 19/May/11

Pete Nugent - Lead rpt - 19/May/11 with Mike Nugent (LC&CC)

Tricky, laybacked top crack.
bigglesbutcha - 2nd O/S - 19/May/11 with John Shaw

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 12/May/11 with Chris Ashton

Seconded previously
grubes - Lead RP - 24/Apr/11 with Ben

D J Williams - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/11

Had to take a rest after failing to get my feet sorted at the start of the crack.
Stoff - Lead dog - 21/Apr/11 with gpcomps

Found tricky, even seconding, great route though
gpcomps - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with Chris Bridgland

Hoyes - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/11 with Derek P

mevanssmith - TR - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/11

Joughton - Lead β - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 07/Mar/11

Kendrick - 2nd - 02/Mar/11 with Mr Hobbs

Ketu - Lead rpt - 20/Feb/11 with Graham, Charles M

cem - 2nd rpt - 20/Feb/11 with Graham Dolman, Rob Truckle

kjbix - Lead - 17/Oct/10 with Selma Williams

ruggystunts - 2nd - 17/Oct/10 with Kev

stevepotter - 2nd - 11/Oct/10 with ken

Sgrit
petellis - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Alpha Blue, Ally

BennoC - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/10 with Brian

colin milton - 2nd - 02/Oct/10 with shaun l

alias dave - TR O/S - Sep/10

Pilch - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Graham, Ed

grubes - 2nd - 21/Aug/10 with Alex

Off balance start moves weren't too awkward.
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Luke

Leo Woodhead - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Ian W

Ianwesterby - 2nd - 08/Aug/10 with Leo

JamieSparkes - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/10 with Nick

Nick1812P - 2nd rpt - 21/Jul/10 with Jamie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10

seemed allot harder this time more off-balance and more polished than I remember
Nick1812P - Lead rpt - 28/Jun/10 with Leon

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Jun/10

dashitboarder - Lead - 13/Jun/10 with Dad

jamesgodwin64 - Lead rpt - 25/May/10 with Gaz

Good balancy moves up the bottom arete and a couple of solid hand jams mid-way followed by an easy finish up the top arete. Good gear
climbinmunkey - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Helen

Hidden - Lead - 09/May/10

eschaton - TR - 09/May/10 with Christian

Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 08/May/10 with JNewbiggin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/May/10

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/10

Hidden - May/10

jamesgodwin64 - Solo β - 28/Apr/10

JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 27/Apr/10 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead β - 27/Apr/10 with Jamie

The first half is a little iffy but the rest is nice, dont climb the crack direct, try a layback instead up it.
R8JimBob88 - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/10 with James

Definetly HVS
joe.91 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10 with Alistair Tamlit, Chi Cheng

Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/10 with Alistair Tamlit, Joe Dobson

alitamlit - 2nd - 21/Apr/10 with joe, chi

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Apr/10

Hidden - 12/Apr/10

Barry D - 2nd - 07/Apr/10 with Andy H

simonp - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Annelies Sarrazyn

ashmellor - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/10 with Dan lane

Hidden - 2010

MarkCoupe - 2010

dark
Franco Cookson OLD - Solo O/S - 15/Nov/09

cosreba - AltLd - 30/Oct/09 with Adam Radcliff

chris lead to the crux but couldnt do it. so i led through. recon rockfax is right at HVS.. a bit sustained for vs
adam06 - AltLd - 30/Oct/09 with chris carr

Fell from the second move then did it clean. Definately felt more HVS!
willworkforfoodjnr - Lead RP - 18/Oct/09 with Ben

mattnuttall - Solo O/S - 12/Oct/09 with Kevin Thaw

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Sep/09

Nick1812P - Lead β - 09/Sep/09

awkward and sweaty work, no chalk.
JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 09/Sep/09 with Nick

PeteH - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Naomi Hart

Simon Holden (LCandCC) - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/09 with Swifty

steven - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/09 with Simon Holden

tricky!!
axeman - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/09 with schofield

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/09

jamesgodwin64 - Lead RP - 29/Jul/09 with Dan F

felt harder than Parker's Eliminate, and more like HVS as per western grit, not really worthy of its 2*s in that too.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/09 with Rob

Ketu - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/09 with Graeme H

Several attempts at the crux until I got the sequence right
dpmUK - Lead dog - 08/Jul/09 with Little Dan

RCrockford - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/09 with Andy C

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/09

Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 31/May/09 with Andy

cmars89 - TR - May/09 with Jake rowarth

Confidence up after doing Parker's so had a pop at this too. Slightly strenuous at the short upper crack because a)my hands are too fat to fit in it and b)I can't jam anyway, so had to thug up it.
djdf - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Pete

Dave Rumney - 19/Apr/09 with Tanya Milner

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Apr/09

alias dave - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with ste mycock

Dave Heaton - Lead - 05/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/09

alias dave - TR O/S - 18/Mar/09 with ste mycock

Cold and damp
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/09 with Simon Shaw

AndyB123 - 2nd O/S - 2009 with bradscorner

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Dec/08

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 08/Nov/08

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 08/Nov/08 with Jamie

metal arms - Lead - 01/Nov/08

Very balancey.
Dan Lane - TR O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Dad

adam carless - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with SecretSquirrel

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 11/May/08 with adam carless

Tough moves round the overhang.
Gooders - Lead - 11/May/08 with Jon Tan, Lucy, Raony

cem - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/08 with Graham Dolman

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

Hidden - TR - 28/Sep/07

MeMeMe - 2nd - 22/Sep/07 with Andy

Barry D - Lead - 31/Aug/07 with Dick Williams

John Kettle - 11/Aug/07

Laffco - Lead dog - 09/Jun/07 with Jan Schiefer

Laffco - Lead dog - 09/Jun/07 with Jan Schiefer

I found this very hard, first few moves I found very tricky because I was looking the wrong way, for some reason trying to move my left foot right around the left hand of the arete and onto a flimsy pocket instead of stepping straight up onto ledges. Even through my stupidity, didnt find it too easy. The upper thin-handjamming crack I again found very difficult - took several falls on this, the more tired I got the harder it felt, pulling on my hands WAY too much because I couldnt find any feet holds and certainly didnt have good jams. Won't be leading VS for a while I think, can't see myself leading anything like this for quite some time. A shame as there are many classic VS's around and about. Mental note - TR at my upper limit doesnt feel as nice as leading VDiffs.
Reaver2k - TR dog - 25/Apr/07 with GH - Matt, Alex, Louise, Katie, Frank

Stig - 2nd rpt - 05/Apr/07 with Jonathan Teale

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/07

Stig - Lead rpt - 10/Mar/07 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Hidden - TR - 18/Feb/07

headius - TR rpt - 2007 with jay

paul79 - 2007

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Oct/06

Jim Vach - 13/Oct/06 with Paul Winder

Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/06 with Liam

SecretSquirrel - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06 with hotbad

Carl Smethurst - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/06 with Gareth Mayhead

Hidden - Lead RP - 03/Aug/06

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/06

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Apr/06

Stig - 2nd rpt - 23/Mar/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2006 with SteveOc

Shad - Lead - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/05

Joe Costello - Solo O/S - Aug/05 with Liam/tom/naylor

Carl Smethurst - Lead β - 09/May/05 with Gareth Mayhead

JohnHutch - TR - 24/Jan/05 with L

Hidden - Lead - 2005

Chavved off. "Hey mate, will you die from there?" etc, etc.
Phil West - Lead dnf - 05/Sep/04 with Chris Tan

Trobbo - Lead O/S - 11/May/04 with martin bennett

cem - 2nd - 21/Mar/04 with Graham Dolman

Mark A Humphries - Lead β - 17/Mar/04 with gary wood

Ben1983 - Lead rpt - 2004

Hidden - 2nd - 2004

Stig - Lead rpt - 01/Sep/03 with ?

Stig - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/03 with Jonathan Teale

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 06/Jul/03 with Ian Pickles

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 02/Jul/03 with Gareth Mayhead

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/03

Gman - Lead O/S - May/03

rob.grafton - 2nd - 02/Apr/03 with Bruce

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/02

sammoore - 2nd - 03/Sep/02 with Newbury College

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Apr/02

Struggled. Couldn't get going at all. One to come back to.
Owdham - TR O/S - 05/Jul/01 with Girtch

Roget - Lead O/S - 19/May/01

Roget - Solo rpt - 19/May/01

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/01

A Crook - 2nd - 20/Mar/01 with Dale Holding

tlr - Lead - 04/May/96 with Kim

robtrooper - 1996

ChrisJD - Lead - 09/Oct/93

Phil West - 2nd O/S - Mar/93 with Dennis ? & Steve Wild

Tony Little - Solo O/S - 27/Apr/92 with Martin

babymoac - 2nd - 16/Jun/91 with MTW

ste_d - Lead O/S - 25/May/91 with mik

Backinthegame - 2nd - Sep/90

Andy Say - Solo O/S - 24/Aug/90

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1990 with Therry Cooper

ewar woowar - Lead - 1989

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jun/86

Hidden - TR - 25/Apr/85

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/84

With I M Marsh course group
David Smith - Lead - 1984

Mark Kemball - Solo - 19/Jun/82

Hidden - Solo - 13/May/81

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/78

Hidden - Solo - 22/May/77

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gavinpeach, BenedictIEP, penny_pops25, Hidden, gidmord, steveth, loz 07, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 247
hard HVS0 of 91
HVS5 of 91
easy HVS65 of 91
hard VS16 of 91
VS5 of 91
easy VS0 of 91
hard HS0 of 91
HS0 of 91
easy HS0 of 91
hard 5b0 of 83
5b0 of 83
easy 5b3 of 83
hard 5a7 of 83
5a70 of 83
easy 5a3 of 83
hard 4c0 of 83
4c0 of 83
easy 4c0 of 83
3 Stars3 of 73
2 Stars42 of 73
1 Star27 of 73
0 Stars1 of 73
Bag of .....0 of 73
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Style of ascent

Soloed21 of 295 (7.1%)
Lead140 of 295 (47.5%)
Followed91 of 295 (30.8%)
Toproped22 of 295 (7.5%)
Alt Leads3 of 295 (1.0%)
Unknown18 of 295 (6.1%)

'Climbed'112 of 295 (38.0%)
clean O/S111 of 295 (37.6%)
clean β12 of 295 (4.1%)
clean rpt38 of 295 (12.9%)
clean RP7 of 295 (2.4%)
dogged9 of 295 (3.1%)
dnf6 of 295 (2.0%)