Rockfax Description
165m. A fantastic route which keeps on coming.
1) 6a, 20m. Follow the technical and featured slab, drifting leftwards at the top.
2) 6a+, 20m. Move right and climb the superb, delicate slab.
3) 5c, 15m. The difficulties ease a little up a thin finger-crack.
4) 5b, 20m. Finish off the slab and then continue up ledges, with the bolting becoming slightly sparser as you go.
Walk 25m uphill across grass to reach the pitch 4. In case of bad weather you can walk off rightwards from here, past the foot of Bodinosaure and onto grassy slopes below the approach path.
5) 6a, 35m. The slab above looks slightly broken and grassy but the pitch manages to stick to good rock all the way. Some of the toughest moves come near the end so keep concentrating!
6) 6a, 30m. Follow the groove above with constant interest and varied climbing to belay on the first access abseil point. Probably the best pitch of the route! © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
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tbiglari | 27 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Excellent for a sunny day, started at 12 and as expected missed the lift but had a nice walk down back to Chamonix. First 2 pitches very stiff for the grade, was pumped out of my mind by the time I got to the 5c pitch which felt very hard by then. Debating bailing on the nice ledge but we decided to crack on and was very happy for it as the last 2 pitches were brilliant and didn’t feel nearly as hard/pumpy as the first 2. Fun adventure overall! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent for a sunny day, started at 12 and as expected missed the lift but had a nice walk down back to Chamonix. First 2 pitches very stiff for the grade, was pumped out of my mind by the time I got to the 5c pitch which felt very hard by then. Debating bailing on the nice ledge but we decided to crack on and was very happy for it as the last 2 pitches were brilliant and didn’t feel nearly as hard/pumpy as the first 2. Fun adventure overall! |
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fifthsunset | 11 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: The first two pitches are more like 6a+ and 6b. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The first two pitches are more like 6a+ and 6b. |
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Webster | 13 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: a pair of 50m ropes will get you down in 4 full length absails | βeta? | |
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βeta: a pair of 50m ropes will get you down in 4 full length absails |
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gavinwye | 18 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: There’s a bolt missing about the middle of pitch 5. Meaning that you’ll need to run it out a bit! There are no real opportunities to place any other runners. Fantastic route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There’s a bolt missing about the middle of pitch 5. Meaning that you’ll need to run it out a bit! There are no real opportunities to place any other runners. Fantastic route. |
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Grade: TD 6b ***
(Envers des Aiguilles)