UKC

Rockfax Description
165m. A fantastic route which keeps on coming.
1) 6a, 20m. Follow the technical and featured slab, drifting leftwards at the top.
2) 6a+, 20m. Move right and climb the superb, delicate slab.
3) 5c, 15m. The difficulties ease a little up a thin finger-crack.
4) 5b, 20m. Finish off the slab and then continue up ledges, with the bolting becoming slightly sparser as you go.
Walk 25m uphill across grass to reach the pitch 4. In case of bad weather you can walk off rightwards from here, past the foot of Bodinosaure and onto grassy slopes below the approach path.
5) 6a, 35m. The slab above looks slightly broken and grassy but the pitch manages to stick to good rock all the way. Some of the toughest moves come near the end so keep concentrating!
6) 6a, 30m. Follow the groove above with constant interest and varied climbing to belay on the first access abseil point. Probably the best pitch of the route! © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
tbiglari 27 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent for a sunny day, started at 12 and as expected missed the lift but had a nice walk down back to Chamonix. First 2 pitches very stiff for the grade, was pumped out of my mind by the time I got to the 5c pitch which felt very hard by then. Debating bailing on the nice ledge but we decided to crack on and was very happy for it as the last 2 pitches were brilliant and didn’t feel nearly as hard/pumpy as the first 2. Fun adventure overall!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent for a sunny day, started at 12 and as expected missed the lift but had a nice walk down back to Chamonix. First 2 pitches very stiff for the grade, was pumped out of my mind by the time I got to the 5c pitch which felt very hard by then. Debating bailing on the nice ledge but we decided to crack on and was very happy for it as the last 2 pitches were brilliant and didn’t feel nearly as hard/pumpy as the first 2. Fun adventure overall!
fifthsunset 11 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The first two pitches are more like 6a+ and 6b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first two pitches are more like 6a+ and 6b.
Webster 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: a pair of 50m ropes will get you down in 4 full length absails
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: a pair of 50m ropes will get you down in 4 full length absails
gavinwye 18 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There’s a bolt missing about the middle of pitch 5. Meaning that you’ll need to run it out a bit! There are no real opportunities to place any other runners. Fantastic route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There’s a bolt missing about the middle of pitch 5. Meaning that you’ll need to run it out a bit! There are no real opportunities to place any other runners. Fantastic route.

Logged Ascents

128 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Aiguilles Rouges

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 60 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
Votes cast 12
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Vingt Mille Lieues Sous La Neige

Grade: TD 6b ***
(Envers des Aiguilles)

Loading Notifications...