Midnight Variation S 4a
12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. From the ledge on the previous route then step right and climb the wall or the groove to its right. © ROCKFAX


FA. Paul Nunn 1957
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 122 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

peachos - 2nd - 20/Jun/15 with Scott Stanley

yossarian714 - Lead O/S - 26/May/15 with Steve Pepper

Ross88 - 2nd - 20/May/15 with M Fuller

Mr Fuller - Lead O/S - 20/May/15 with Ross Brown

Derek Furze - 2nd - 10/May/15 with Paul Mitchell

scbooth - Lead - 25/Apr/15 with Jason, Julie

Awful, a definite sandbag. I've never been so pleased to get to the top of a route. All of the holds are covered in loose gravel or vegetation. No obvious places to place gear in the last 1/3 of the route. Couple of horrible mantels to top out, a slip here was definitely going to lead to a 'decking' incident. Avoid
JohnWatt - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/15 with Niomi McSorley

matthewlyen - 2nd - 07/Apr/15

BTphonehome - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/15 with Tony

tmawer - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/15 with Bram

pauldr - 2015

akhughes - 31/Dec/14

matt.stevenson - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/14

tallginge - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/14 with gunny

Hidden - TR dnf - 25/Sep/14

A very challenging climb, hard to pick best routes available but managed to get up and reach the top! very proud of my progress today :)
ajb1 - TR O/S - 25/Sep/14 with Gemma Fisher

Hidden - TR O/S - 24/Sep/14

Puts the 'sand' into sandbag. Exited via grim mantle. Avoid.
MatthewH - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Dan

craig h - Solo rpt - 07/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/14

callum2806 - 2nd - 16/May/14 with Simon Bluer

sibluer - Lead - 16/May/14

traineed - 2nd O/S - 05/May/14 with dk247, Robin

bigglesbutcha - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/14 with Murray Gallagher

stratandrew - 2nd - 09/Apr/14 with Gareth Williams

kkris - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/14 with Adam

Frightening lack of grip on the 2nd to last move due to grit on the holds. Almost didn't make it!
dl_wraith - Solo O/S - 07/Oct/13

In wet trainers. Spicy.
BenedictIEP - Solo rpt - 17/Aug/13

peachos - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/13 with Scott Stanley

If that's a Severe I'm Leo Houlding.... In fact, I bet that horror show would even take him by surprise.
Gooders - Lead β - 06/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/13

masmith - TR - 06/Mar/13

James Oakes - Solo O/S - 19/Feb/13

hobson moor self b.
kkris - TR O/S - 18/Feb/13

Scott Dunkley - 2013

The climb would have been trivial if not for the masses of loose grit on some of the more vital holds which never seemed to ever get clean. Dirty as. Thoroughly enjoyed it.
Martin Brierley - Lead O/S - 2013

Felt like HS.
jules699 - 2nd - 27/Oct/12

Compaired to the other climbs that r graded vs in this quarry this is an e1. Truly horrible climb especially the top- still have grit in my teeth. One to miss.
wil_perry - 27/Oct/12 with Mike

StuartCJones - Solo - Oct/12

ozzie35 - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/12 with Steve Graham

Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/12

Tricky
bantamdave - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/12 with Murray

Someone below comments "severe my arse" - my thoughts entirely. Defo top end HS if not a soft VS. gritty gravely sandy top mantle i did with as little style as possible while trying not to wet myself. HS 4a rockfax
lizzyb - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/12 with James Oswald

Somerset swede basher - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/12

Would not like to lead this... pointless climb.
David Shelmerdine - TR O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Craig

MaccMark - Lead - 13/Jun/12 with Chris Morrow, Clare Hodgson

Fragmod - 2nd - 12/Jun/12

Greasy and needed more chalk.
tsl42 - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/12 with Gaz Hooson

Sam_Marsland - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/12 with Lynn Marsland

ozzie35 - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/12 with peter

Will Sheaff - Lead - 16/Apr/12

rod757 - Lead - Feb/12

t8t9t8 - 28/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Sep/11

Jonny Nick - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Viki

cmars89 - Lead - 17/Aug/11 with Sam duckworth

eddzzz - TR O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Daniel Higham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11

A tricky start and a tricky finish, the middle was quite straight forward using the big flake.
Plenk - 2nd O/S - Jul/11 with Jim

Gashworth - Lead - 26/Jun/11

Gashworth - 26/Jun/11

garywalker147 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Barry

seanraby - TR RP - 13/Jun/11 with Dave Manton

Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 19/May/11 with Christian Turford

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/11

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Graham, Charles M

cem - 2nd - 20/Feb/11 with Graham Dolman, Rob Truckle

nmoysey - 2011

mikedelderfield - 2011 with Steven Delderfield

d_evo20 - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/10 with James Brownhill

Dislike
Viki - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/10 with Eddie

not a good route, could improve with more traffic to clean it...maybe
Matthew Edwards - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/10 with Victoria Shelmerdine

chris.mac - 01/Aug/10 with rick, gordon

Taxing from the start. Sandbag?
steveth - TR β - 06/Jul/10 with Chris Roberts

Couldn't commit to the tricky mantle at the top. Reclimbed on TR.
steveth - Lead dnf - 06/Jul/10 with Chris Roberts

TerryB - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/10

Awful route which deserves to be complimented by a box of explosives and a match.
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 12/May/10 with Dan Money

Hidden - TR dog - 12/May/10

jamesgodwin64 - Solo β - 28/Apr/10

Good climb everything is there when you need it good workout for arms
Johnny B Diggerman - TR O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Mike, Michael

Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/10

MarkCoupe - 2010

BenedictIEP - 2nd rpt - 18/Oct/09 with Chris Surfleet

grubes - 2nd - 18/Oct/09 with Ben, Chris

willworkforfoodjnr - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Ben, grubes

wheelo - Lead - 24/Sep/09 with nat & ann

Leo Woodhead - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Steve Wolstencroft

Steve Wolstencroft - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Leo

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Aug/09

vincentvega - 2nd - 16/Jun/09 with kevin k

sibluer - TR - 12/May/09

Hidden - 2nd - May/09

Jon Dittman - Lead - 08/Apr/09

A bit left arm pumpy
hcooper - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/09 with Jennifer Slack

Jen80 - 2009

Owdham - Lead - 2009

cymjt - 2009

jamesgodwin64 - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/08 with Dan F

trish1968 - 2nd O/S - 23/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead - 24/Aug/08

craig h - Solo rpt - 19/Jun/08

Damp and terrifying.
rice boy - Mar/08 with lewisl

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/07

BenedictIEP - Lead dnf - 31/Jul/07 with Caroline Powrie

Chickened out of this, went part way up the flake and placed a pretty dodgy wire, I had no choice to extend it as the rope drag would be horrible, spent atleast 5 minutes doing this hanging back on a flake gradually tiring myself. Finally began moving right onto what I think was the way to go, the moves looked relatively tricky for me, protection was poor, so I decided it wasnt worth the 2/3m deck out potential and downclimbed - possibly to save for another day. Half proud of myself and half disappointed. In the long run it will give me confidence on backing down on anything I don't want to commit myself to, but it was only a Severe. Not sure what to think.
Reaver2k - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/07 with GH - Matt, Alex, Louise, Katie, Frank

headius - TR rpt - 2007 with jay

callmehobbes - Lead - 2007

kevin k - TR O/S - Jul/06 with dave

Came up left of the crack at the top
Katy Nelson - Lead - 08/Jun/06 with Ben Schofield (college)

dk247 - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/06 with Neil Gregory

Joe Costello - Solo O/S - Aug/05 with Liam/tom/naylor

Simonj - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/05 with Andy

A horrible route
Stig - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/03 with Jonathan Teale

Awful climb
Shad - Lead - 15/Jul/02

Gman - Solo O/S - May/01

John Eley - Lead O/S - May/01

Adi Hooper - Lead - 2001 with Sherborne Adventure Group

craig h - Solo rpt - 10/Oct/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/98

babymoac - 1991

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1990

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Voting
Total votes cast 59
hard HS3 of 25
HS3 of 25
easy HS13 of 25
hard S5 of 25
S1 of 25
easy S0 of 25
hard HVD0 of 25
HVD0 of 25
easy HVD0 of 25
hard 4b0 of 19
4b2 of 19
easy 4b7 of 19
hard 4a7 of 19
4a3 of 19
easy 4a0 of 19
hard 3c0 of 19
3c0 of 19
easy 3c0 of 19
3 Stars0 of 15
2 Stars0 of 15
1 Star1 of 15
0 Stars3 of 15
Bag of .....11 of 15
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP
Dogged
DNF