Rockfax Description
14m. The groove on the right leads to a break from where technical and strenuous moves (try a left-hand pinch) allow the wall to be climbed rapidly. Originally given a hard HVS. © Rockfax

FA. Loz Francomb 1979

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors).

CharlieMack 23/Nov 2nd RP
Hannes B 23/Nov Lead G/U
with Charlie
Will Mortimer 23/Nov Lead β

Crucial crux hold was sopping wet which made it even more desperate but managed to get through it clean first go. Had beta for the top before hand.

RKirke 22/Jul Lead O/S
Stroppy 22/Jul 2nd O/S

Hard move, but right above bomber cams. Like the slab bit too

Andrew Barker 12/Jul Lead O/S

A good crux sequence.

with Chris Moran
codenamel 10/Jul Lead RP

Tried this one once or twice before and failed to make it stick on the crux move. I'm happy to finally put a tick on this.

Mark Grist 09/Jul Lead RP
with Lee Hamilton
jamiejsn ?/Jul TR dog

One move wonder. Took me a few attempts to work it out.

with Luke Weaver
Hidden 27/Mar Lead RP
JimboWizbo 27/Mar TR
with Beth
Hidden 22/Mar 2nd dog
JimboWizbo 22/Mar Lead rpt

Did this to try and start the year as I mean to go on

with Beth
tenbelter ??/2015 -
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead
Nick1812P 04/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Jamie
JamieSparkes 04/Aug/14 Lead rpt
bantamdave 24/Apr/14 TR dog
with Simon
JimboWizbo 18/Apr/14 Lead RP

Only took three months to get on it

with gaz, Beth
Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd RP
Hidden 09/Apr/14 2nd dog
David Kay 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Went up to contemplate the crux move a couple of times before committing, not too bad once I got my feet in the right places.

JimboWizbo 28/Feb/14 TR

Fell on first go. Hopefully this was due to having to belay myself through the crux.

JimboWizbo 17/Jan/14 TR

Self belay. Very wet today. Got it clean second go. Can't wait to come back and lead.

Hidden ??/2014 Lead β
g1m147 29/Dec/13 TR
Mike W 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 19/May/13 Lead rpt
leon 19/May/13 Lead dnf
with Steven Davidson
Hidden 23/Apr/13 Lead dnf
gw3285 17/Apr/13 Lead
Chi Cheng 08/Sep/12 Lead RP

Quite easy this time round.

with Bill Smith
akhughes 22/Aug/12 Lead O/S
MeMeMe 12/Aug/12 2nd
with Cliff
david morse 12/Jul/12 TR


with rampant
Olli-C 27/Jun/12 2nd β
with chi
Rachel Slater 27/Jun/12 2nd dog
Chi Cheng 27/Jun/12 Lead RP

Fell off try to get to the pinch. Got it 2nd go.

Dave Foster 25/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Piss when you don't miss the crucial hold!

with Si 2
Hidden 25/Jun/12 Lead β
pie_eater_pete 14/May/12 Lead O/S
Joe Costello 23/Aug/11 Lead

One tricky blind move to get foot in the break. Easy when your foot goes in but failure to do so means you fall off and test the gear which is solid!

with Matt
mattwyles1 23/Aug/11 2nd dog

Did it differently to Joe in the end, left hand pinch, right hand crimp next to pinch, left foot into break under lip, up with right hand.

with Joe
JamieSparkes 14/Aug/11 Lead β

all went a bit sketchy when I forgot what to do mid crux. oops!

with Nick
Nick1812P 14/Aug/11 2nd rpt
with Jamie
Nick1812P 08/Jul/11 TR rpt

First go. First time clean.

with Jamie
JamieSparkes 07/Jul/11 TR rpt
with Nick
Rich Kirby 08/May/11 Lead O/S
with Martin Daley
w.pettet-smith ?/May/11 Lead
with pete nugent
jamesgodwin64 19/Apr/11 TR RP
Hidden 20/Nov/10 TR
bradscorner 15/Oct/10 TR

Did this really well, once I got the pinch and foot in the break the moves flew past me like a train. It was over before I knew it. Rain stopped play, I want another go though, soon.

with Danny Vaughan
bradscorner 12/Oct/10 TR

Met Mike and Mike, tagged along with their ideas- found this really hard and right on the edge. Had watched it being led the day before, I am no-where near this yet.

petellis 10/Oct/10 2nd dog
Hidden 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
GrantB 10/Oct/10 2nd
Jim the Baker ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S

good route with only 1 hard move. up & down twice after placing gear. felt really hard but have since found beta to make the move easier

Stoff 01/Jun/10 TR dnf
with gpcomps
gpcomps 01/Jun/10 TR dnf
JamieSparkes 05/May/10 TR dog

felt hard and greasy today.

with Nick
JamieSparkes 27/Apr/10 TR β

just about got this now, should probably get on the lead.

with Nick
Hidden 12/Apr/10 TR dog
Hidden 07/Apr/10 2nd O/S
simonp ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Peakpdr 21/Mar/10 2nd
with P. Mitchell
Dan Lane 19/Mar/10 Lead RP

Climbed upto the break, stuffed it with gear, down climbed, climbed up again, had a look at the next move, down climbed, went up again, and had to take. After a very short rest, did the crux. Came back about 30 mins later and did the route clean.

bradscorner ??/2010 TR

Attempted lead, t/r to retrieve gear. I now know the move over the break!

with Danny Vaughan
PeteH 01/Oct/09 Lead dnf

Interesting to see this is now E3 6a, maybe... It certainly felt well harder than any E2 I've done before. I'll be back.

with Brad
Jez 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 09/Sep/09 TR
JamieSparkes 09/Sep/09 TR dog

nice strong move over the overlap provide the only real difficulty, 4c above and below this with what looks like bomber gear in the break. one to lead in the future.

with Nick
climber130887 21/Jun/09 TR
with nathan
cymjt ??/2009 -
ste_d 29/May/08 TR rpt
with shunt
Hidden 13/May/08 TR dog
adam carless 11/May/08 TR RP

tried to lead it (after SS back off). Eventually commited to the crux, totally fluffed it. So we set up a toprope to get the gear - did it first go. Bum. There will be a rematch.

SecretSquirrel 11/May/08 TR

Backed off the crux on lead then toproped to retrieve gear.

maybe_si 10/May/08 TR
Ben1983 06/May/08 Lead O/S
Mancunianimport ??/2008 -
kingholmesy ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Ben
kingholmesy ??/2008 Lead rpt
Toby Dunn 25/May/07 Lead O/S
with John
SecretSquirrel 20/Apr/07 2nd
with fiend
Bern ??/2006 -
mattnuttall 11/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Ozzy Kate
Hidden 12/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/04 TR RP
Hidden ??/2003 2nd O/S
Roget 19/May/01 Lead O/S
mikedelderfield 01/Aug/96 Lead RP
phardman 11/May/96 2nd
robtrooper ??/1996 -
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/93 Lead
with Pete Carmichael
Tony Little 27/Apr/92 Lead β
with Martin
Craig Barton ??/1991 Lead RP
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Longsufferingropeholder, Hidden, Graham Booth, Ropeboy, Hidden, bradscorner
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 35
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set