250m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
180m. Although not as good as the Southeast Ridge, this is still a nice way onto the Index summit. The bolting is sparse on all but the trickiest sections so having a grade in hand is advised. Some of the bolts are tricky to spot too.
Approach - From the top of the Index chairlift, walk onto the scree slope below the Col de l'Index. Traverse the scree leftwards and drop down on a faint path to the foot of the route.
1) 5b, 40m. Climb the slab, passing a short steep section halfway up, to a belay on a small notch.
2) 4c, 25m. Follow the arête above to a belay just below the grassy ramp that splits the face. Once you've brought up your second(s) scramble up to and across the ramp to a single bolt belay at the foot of a light-coloured slab.
3) 5b, 30m. Climb the slab, drifting right initially and then coming back left to belay. There are no bolts until 10m up the pitch so take care on the lower section.
4) 5c, 25m. Continue up the slab and the steep crack above.
5) 5b, 20m. More slabs lead to an exposed stance.
6) 5b, 25m. Ignore the ramp leading out right and head up the steep wall split by a crack. Belay just below the ridge crest.
7) 3c, 15m. Climb the final pitch of the Southeast Ridge.
Descent - Scramble down the northwest ridge for 10m to a reach several bolted belays (the peak can be very busy, hence the multiple abseil points). Either make a 30m abseil to just above the Col de l'Index and scramble down into the gully below leading directly to the Index chairlift, or make 3 x 25m abseils on bolted anchors down the northwest face in order to reach the gully further down. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
6a free, 5c obl.


ClimberDateStyle
Alpenglow 09/Sep AltLd O/S

Great route with good climbing and exposure. Queues at the abseil station were a bit long and had a very rude and dangerous Italian team push past us and other parties at the abseil station causing ropes and gear to tangle.

with Alice B, Owen, Chris H
will_lake 09/Sep AltLd O/S

Sooo busy, the abseil off turned into a shit fight for a free set of bolts! None of it felt like 5c

ChrisH89 09/Sep AltLd O/S

Decent climbing broken up by scrambly sections, but with usual stunning Chamonix views. Fully bolted though as descriptions says they are widely spaced; it's a slab so best not to fall! Good day out marred by what should have been a ten minute abseil becoming an hour long farce due to slow, faffy Italian team with awful ropework holding everyone else up with needless gear sorting on the summit ridge before recklessly forcing their way past on a narrow ledge when other teams got tired of waiting and overtook.

OLGrady 06/Sep Lead
with AWatson
Hidden 29/Aug AltLd
amuirheadsmith 29/Aug AltLd
Luke Jones 08/Aug AltLd O/S
Karl_Harrison 08/Aug AltLd
with Luke
peachos 03/Aug AltLd O/S

Top section only as the SE Arete was busy. Fine, fun route. Scott led first 2 pitches, me the top 2.

scottidog 03/Aug -

Started from the grassy ledge.

with Graeme, Carl Peachey
JasonOneEye 29/Jul Lead
Petarghh 25/Jul AltLd O/S
Jules Lane 23/Jul AltLd O/S

Really good fun. Also lead the short hard last section at the top - seemed like f5c, UK 5a, maybe just 5b.

with Mynydd Paul Justin
BStar 23/Jul Lead dnf

Bottom pitches only as SE arête was super busy

with Rachael
Rachael88 23/Jul 2nd

Bit of a warm up route to start our holiday, quite wet and loose!

with Adam
Keith Lambley 10/Jul Lead
with Kate R
Matt Harmon 05/Jul AltLd O/S

Led p1, 4,6. Did the 6a pitch at top

Sarah Roscoe 05/Jul AltLd
ImmyRyan ?/Jul Lead
with Thomás
themattyshep 27/Jun Lead O/S

the start of the SE ridge

Rob_Morris1996 27/Jun AltLd O/S

Bottom pitch under snow, we think, again scrambled up snow slope then to the belay and began from there.

Hidden 27/Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun AltLd O/S
RM199 20/Jun AltLd O/S
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
deandarvill ??/2016 AltLd dnf

First 2 Pitches Climbed to grassy ramp. then climbed SE Arete. I lead first pitch 5b. Missed last chair down !!!!

with Ian Wilson
Nath93 27/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

A fun route with some nice positions, hardest move was UK 5a avoiding the 6a+ wall at the top. Looks like it has been rebolted quite recently as most were in good condition. The bolts almost ruin what would otherwise be a great trad route...

Hidden 14/Aug/15 AltLd
EllieWoods 06/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1 etc

with pete belfield
FlavioL1989 04/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Ben Phillips, Rob Edwards
ben.phillips 04/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Flavio, Robin Edwards
Hidden ?/Aug/15 AltLd
Colin Scotchford 22/Jul/15 AltLd
emily_allen 20/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Jordan
Jordanh031 20/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/15 AltLd
edjenkins 29/Jun/15 AltLd
with Joe Shelper
rosieposey14 28/Jun/15 -
rashwell 28/Jun/15 AltLd
Sam Hunt 28/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
CMoore 27/Jun/15 Lead
with Eloise Chambers
OutdoorGirl 26/Jun/15 2nd

Difficult way finding on the last pitch - improvised the anchor with a sling, traversed the ridge to the col, abseiled off a 60m rope and descended scree path on foot

with Michel, Julien & the Japanese
callumbtaylor 22/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

blood all over belay at bottom of pitch 6, rocks falling everywhere with some close misses, abbed the wrong way resulting in steep gulley descent

JimboWizbo 16/Jun/15 AltLd dnf

First 5 pitches before the rain/hail set it, the climbing is good, route finding is tricky as the bolts aren't all the same type. You can ab from R4 to the big ledge (i.e. pitches 3 & 4) in one with 60m ropes, just. Very atmospheric climbing in thick clouds.

with Beth
Hidden 16/Jun/15 AltLd
Rob Royle 13/Jun/15 Lead

4 pitches only as running late and needed to get the lift down.....

with Steph
MoWalker3 11/Sep/14 -

Had lost my lid earlier in the week so was impressed when we cheekily jumped on the route at the ledge in front of two very polite and generous French chaps; who used the slight delay for a relaxed smoke. cheers guys.

with RichB
Little AndyH 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Rickrick 03/Sep/14 -
davkeo ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
aljones91 31/Aug/14 AltLd
with Ben hester
MrRiley 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

First two pitches before L'Index SE ridge, worthwhile

with Lachy Low, Debbie Lee
Debbie Lee 31/Aug/14 AltLd
Callum Smith 28/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Last lift up after chere couloir in the morning. Complicated climbing near top, but steady till then. Not the best on the buttress, but a nice sunset climb. Walked down in 1 hour to road.

Matt Schwarz 28/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with katie
Katie S 28/Aug/14 AltLd
Hidden 12/Aug/14 AltLd
khalidq 10/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/14 AltLd
Harri777 ?/Aug/14 AltLd
with Khalid
Adamski1986 27/Jul/14 Lead
with kerry
Hidden 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
jazzyjeff 27/Jul/14 2nd
with Nick
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Lead
jhobbs 17/Jul/14 AltLd
Harvdog 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
jogle03 14/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Roger Cruse 01/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

First 2 pitches only and then up the SE Arete

with Kris and Nolan
Hidden 01/Jul/14 AltLd
Ciaran Mullan ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
phildawson ?/Jul/14 AltLd
winter hill1 28/Jun/14 AltLd
with conrad
Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
KatOstrich 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Alt lead with Ollie. Nice route onto the index ridge. Got ab rope stuck

with Ollie
Hidden 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 12/Aug/13 AltLd
Paal Kristoffer 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Pete_Frost 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 is very thinly bolted, but nowhere near F5b in grade. The climbing gets better the higher up you go. However, it feels like a lot of the F6a top pitch has fallen off.

thetradlad 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd
Ewanski ?/Jul/13 AltLd
with Grah. A
aldo56 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S

First two pitches leading onto L'Index SE Ridge.

davebrox 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Dan
markfairbank 09/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Scrappy route, bit of climbing with alot of scrambling. 5min approach from the Index lift is great but suggest much better routes can be found elsewhere...

Mountain Llama 09/Sep/12 AltLd

Easy for grade

with Mark F
jezb1 07/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden 07/Sep/12 -
Mike Turner 29/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Abigail Turner
maria85 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

P1&2 only to get to SE ridge.

with Ronnie
Hidden 26/Aug/12 AltLd
wiibaker 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/Aug/12 AltLd
with Robin Brooke
Aaron Lines ?/Aug/12 AltLd
with stu
HarryB 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Al
Hidden 16/Jul/12 AltLd
Steve Woollard 12/Jul/12 -
steveprice.exmouth 12/Jul/12 -
Ragingpossum 01/Jul/12 AltLd

Will lead all but the last pitch

Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
jon_ridley 30/Jun/12 AltLd
becoming-stranger 30/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Emily Cropton 30/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jun/12 Lead
Strachan ?/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Sam Simpson 03/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Linked up wth SE Ridge

Hidden 03/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
jonnie3430 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Franky
Liam Ingram ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Roberttaylor ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
mitch ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1/2 to get to L'Index SE Ridge

chrissloan84 ?/Aug/11 -
with paul
darren hudson 26/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Good climb which dries quick after rain. Started late (lazy start and huge wait for ticket) so nobody else on it, but did have to endure the walk down. Bit snowy on the ab out.

with David Ford
aipattison 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Josh Waller
d_meacher ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd dnf
Leelogs 24/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with SCC
KatieG 21/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/10 AltLd
Ashley Hold ?/Oct/10 AltLd
Hidden 15/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
dan ely 15/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

did to lead on to the sw ridge

with brian (the scott)
wi11 10/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Chris Gee
John Roe 30/Jul/10 AltLd dnf

Only completed the first two pitches due to deteriorating weather

with Adam Davis
Anthony Dixon 12/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 04/Jul/10 Lead
Laurence Everitt 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
thetradlad 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Did first two pitches before deterioration of weather

Harry Thorpe 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Bloody hard walk to get there!

Lawrence Bird 03/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jun/10 -
Hidden 01/Aug/09 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead
Shuttsie ?/Aug/09 2nd
andyinglis 23/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with neil adams
Neil Adams 23/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/09 AltLd dnf
Hidden 05/Aug/08 Lead O/S
cmsg 03/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with John Raho
Mark Walter ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
tommytuffa 31/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Felix
kylieo 25/Jul/08 AltLd
with Phil
Diggler 09/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with craig
Hidden 02/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Lee Bonner
Hidden 30/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/08 2nd O/S
TGreen 11/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with alek
alek ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
liz j ?/Aug/06 AltLd
with shaun williams/craig ?
Hidden 10/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
shaun walby ?/Jul/06 AltLd
with Kev Groome
Dhonny_Jaws ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
James W ?/Aug/03 -

great climb, started at 11 so long walk down

with mary w
Hidden 30/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
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Voting
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Votes cast 16
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