Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
1) 4c, 15m. From the back of the cave follow the jamming crack around the overhang, then the corner above to the faultline.
2) 5a, 20m. From the centre of the ledge, climb the wall until it is possible to step right onto an obvious prow. Climb the groove above to a ledge 5m from the top. Finish up the corner on the left, or, harder, the wall right of the corner. Stake belay. Protection is rather spaced.
FA. Pete Finklaire 30/May/1992.
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Elysium
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)