Rockfax Description
24m. The wide chimney/crack in the nose of the buttress leads past a bulge to a gritty stance. Step left into the exposed crack near the arete and climb this until the main groove on the right can be reached. Climb this by good jamming and finish up the wall above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain.

Mr Fuller 06/Sep 2nd O/S

Amazing! Surely the best Severe on grit?

with Rich Pooley
Alex Thompson 06/Sep Lead rpt

Took the lead as Graham was not feeling it. Awesome route for the grade.

with Graham
Compo 06/Sep Lead
with Kaveh
Hidden 06/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul Lead
stacey73 04/Jul 2nd
with Emma
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2015 -
leethebee 10/Oct/14 AltLd β
with Disco
el disco 10/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ed Green, Chris CMC
Matt Harmon 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
amccann 07/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Possibly the best severe on grit. A lovely climb.

jon_gill1 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Geoff Hannis
grrrrrrrh 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Amazing in every way!

with Jon Gill
georgenvk 27/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Becks87
Becks87 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with George
atom 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Excellent Romp on Grit

Duncan 88 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
quickdrawmcraw 26/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/14 -
Hardcore Pat 24/Jul/14 Solo O/S
David_Gledson 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Alan
Somerset swede basher 23/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Mark Collins 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Neil Henson
Neil Henson 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Mark Collins
dangmtb 21/Jun/14 2nd
j.buckley87 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
saxonzulu 18/May/14 Lead
adie84 ??/2014 -
MDowson 26/Aug/13 Lead
with sam webb
Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S
stevo smith 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Britton
Anne Gumbley 20/Jul/13 Lead
with Ray Sharples, Mark Fairbank
Sidekick 13/Jul/13 Solo O/S
sopaz 13/Jul/13 Lead
drysori 13/Jul/13 Lead
BTphonehome 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Kasha
georgenvk 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
kasha_gregson 12/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Bram
Derek Furze 09/Jul/13 Lead
MoWalker3 06/Jul/13 -
with chrissy
Hidden 01/Jul/13 2nd
dangmtb 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Really great climb. Nice positions with lots of pro...

jimbobted 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with dangmtb
joe.91 21/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Great route, fun.

Hidden 21/Jun/13 Lead
Climbster 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 06/Jun/13 2nd β
with Matt
Hidden ??/2013 Solo
John Nuttall 08/Aug/12 2nd
with Clive
timofy 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 TR O/S
Palindrome ?/May/12 2nd
Sam Cooke 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead
stevetheleg 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Sam Cooke
Helen.Burgess 01/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 2nd O/S
fifth ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead
sting 22/Oct/11 2nd
with kwaidy
The Bad Cough 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Reedymc 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
markhammonds 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Thought this was a particularly good climb: great holds; great gear; great positions; great location.

Chris Ellis 02/Oct/11 Lead
with Martin Veale, Louise Pellett
Jack Whiteley 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with John Hayes
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/11 2nd
Chris Manasseh 06/Aug/11 2nd
with Charlie Johnson
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 24/Jul/11 2nd
Mr Sparkle 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Tomber 04/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Absolutely fantastic route - just wish I'd lead it!

with Vicki Cotton, Stuart Hurworth
Stuart Hurworth 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Excellent route, plenty of gear, brilliant moves on steep rock. Would like to second it to get the full feeling of continuous movement over the rock! Don't fancy a solo though!!

with Vicki Cotton, Tom Kimber
gavinpeach 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Best severe I've ever done. Quality nice easy climb to end a great day.

with Dan Mclaughlin, Liam Taylor
Steven Andrews 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S

wow, what a severe!

with Richard Lines
Barry D 21/Jun/11 2nd
with Liz & Dave
SteveM 04/Jun/11 2nd
with Kat
kitkat78 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with SteveM
JRae 21/May/11 2nd

About as good as it gets!

with Molly G
Peter Holder 04/May/11 Lead O/S
with Aimee Wariner
Hidden 04/May/11 2nd O/S
Rob Beever ?/May/11 -
howlingbaboon 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route! Best grit severe?

with Scott
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
cragtyke 10/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead
Sam Simpson 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd
manwithacam 14/Aug/10 Lead

A lovely sunny day and we had the crag to ourselves until joined by 2 more. This is a great severe, maybe the best I've climbed.

with Sarah
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Oceanic 03/Jul/10 -
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead
Barry D 27/Jun/10 Lead
with Trish
augustus trout 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Al Metelko
tanssop 24/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Wayne
Yanis Nayu 24/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Awesome route at the grade - once the chimney has been despatched!

with Phil Lucas
Richie Rich 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Tony H
Tony Holdsworth 22/May/10 2nd O/S

Nice route

with Rich Cutsforth
Pilch 20/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Graham
asmith37 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
matthewjames 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Reaver2k 23/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Enjoyed almost as much as first time! Awesome route at severe.

Lisaaa 23/Aug/09 Lead
with Mike Watson
Graeme Hammond 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Anna Hammond, Pete aka Dad
embob 22/Aug/09 Lead

Hmmm, didn't lead this too well - no points for style this time! Excellent route at the grade.

with Alex
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 12/Aug/09 2nd O/S
George Ormerod 09/Aug/09 Lead β
with Buffy
Alex Thompson 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Started drizzling mid-way, very pleasant during a hot day!

with Mike Hibbert
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
BenJacobs 31/May/09 Lead O/S

great route, really good fun

with Josh
RCrockford 31/May/09 2nd
with Andy C
dashitboarder 31/May/09 2nd
@ndy 31/May/09 Lead
ChuckstarUK 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with Nicola and Rob
LakesWinter 25/Apr/09 Lead
with AD
Hidden 15/Mar/09 TR O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
alun1111 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
tanssop 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Absolute quality climb

with Andy
max_chan 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Lou
Goody 17/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Dave Checkley
joe larner 08/Jun/08 2nd
gazfellows 07/May/08 Lead
with shaun d
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/07 Lead O/S
swoosh 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Jamie Armatage
DerwentDiluted 15/Apr/07 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
Reaver2k 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Absolutely fantastic! First real feel of exposure whilst climbing and never thought it would hit me so much! Felt a little bit wobbley getting out of the chimney but no difficult moves, got further up and felt very exposed. However, the climbing is amazing quality, layback to get onto the crack properly and off you go. I absolutely laced it with gear due being quite terrified. Moved around into the Phoenix Climb's wide crack, asked for directions and went back into the crack, this is where the really beautiful climbing is! Finally onto the exposed upper wall on jugs and up and over! Well protected, sustained easy moves, and great belay up top, overlooking the moor and resiviour, great place to be and hope to be up there when leading VS to do a few of the other classics. Do it next time you're there, no excuses.

with Neil, Matt
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/07 2nd
hartke 14/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with reaver2k
Tom Phillips 05/Aug/06 2nd
with mick
Hidden 05/Aug/06 2nd O/S
colin milton 28/Jul/06 2nd
with horace
simonw1 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Allan Watson
spacey 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with jo macey
Hidden 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 16/Jun/06 2nd
with helen gibson
Rob Davies 11/Jun/06 2nd rpt
with Phil Ashton
Hidden 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
A Crook 04/Jun/06 2nd
with Duncan Hassell
Blod 10/Jul/05 Lead O/S

Great climb.

with Henry
Gus 03/Jun/05 Solo
with sam whittaker
Hidden 17/Aug/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Trobbo 05/Jul/04 2nd
with gary
cem 16/May/04 2nd
with Natasha Geere
erica 22/Aug/03 2nd
with Chris and Malcolm
malc 14/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with CH
Simon Caldwell 09/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with Carmen
Hidden 09/Aug/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/03 2nd
DubyaJamesDubya 15/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Martin Flint
Hidden 24/Jun/01 Solo
Urgles ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Laura
Dom Whillans ??/1999 -
stokienomad ?/Jul/98 Lead
FrankW 16/Aug/97 2nd O/S
with Joe
Hidden ??/1996 -
Roget 27/Jul/91 Solo O/S
with chris jones
Rog Wilko ?/May/89 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Andy Say 29/May/87 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/May/84 Lead
Pete Pozman ?/Nov/82 Lead O/S
with Mike Allen, Garry Rushworth
babymoac 25/Apr/82 2nd
with Ben NUMC
nigehughes ?/Aug/81 Lead
with Gary Kerr
Rob Davies ?/Jun/81 Lead
with Mike Papworth
mikej 17/Apr/81 Lead
with Bob Lewis, Mike Mason
Tom V ??/1980 -
Nigel Bond 15/Jul/79 Lead
with Tony Cuddy, Martin Crosby
Dave Musgrove 02/Nov/69 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
Hidden 10/Oct/65 Solo
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, alp79, joe hallam, Hidden, Mayaculpa, Hidden, Hinchrn, Hidden, Hidden, parker236, teamrob, Hidden, glennofsheff, Conor1, ayuplass, alexanderpatton, Hidden, The Oracle, Jules Lane, Hidden
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 43
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set