Derbyshire > Shining Clough Rocks >
 
Via Principia** S 4a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Phoenix Climb
 
Subsidiary Chimney >>
[Maybe the best Severe in the UK, after The Sphinx Nose Traverse at the Wainstones?, 2 kb]24m. The wide chimney/crack in the nose of the buttress leads past a bulge to a gritty stance. Step left into the exposed crack near the arete and climb this until the main groove on the right can be reached. Climb this by good jamming and finish up the wall above. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain.

Photo: Maybe the best Severe in the UK, after The Sphinx Nose Traverse at the Wainstones? © Climbster
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 148 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Hidden - 25/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/14

Somerset swede basher - Solo O/S - 23/Jun/14

Mark Collins - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Neil Henson

Neil Henson - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Mark Collins

dangmtb - 2nd - 21/Jun/14

j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14

saxonzulu - Lead - 18/May/14

adie84 - 2014

MDowson - Lead - 26/Aug/13 with sam webb

slacky - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Chris Saunders, Ben

stevo smith - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Chris Britton

Anne Gumbley - Lead - 20/Jul/13 with Ray Sharples, Mark Fairbank

Sidekick - Solo O/S - 13/Jul/13

sopaz - Lead - 13/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jul/13

BTphonehome - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Kasha

georgenvk - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with martina

kasha_gregson - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Bram

Derek Furze - Lead - 09/Jul/13

MoWalker3 - 06/Jul/13 with chrissy

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/13

Really great climb. Nice positions with lots of pro...
dangmtb - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

jimbobted - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13 with dangmtb

Great route, fun.
joe.91 - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/13 with Thomas Reid

Climbster - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Ian

Bloke on a Rope - 2nd β - 06/Jun/13 with Matt

Hidden - Solo - 2013

John Nuttall - 2nd - 08/Aug/12 with Clive

timofy - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

Hidden - TR O/S - May/12

Palindrome - 2nd - May/12

Sam Cooke - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with stevetheleg

halroberts87 - Lead - 01/Apr/12 with Helen Burgess

stevetheleg - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Sam Cooke

Helen.Burgess - 2nd - 01/Apr/12 with Hal Roberts

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/12

fifth - 2012

school boyish ;)
kwaidy - Lead - 23/Oct/11 with sting

sting - 2nd - 22/Oct/11 with kwaidy

The Bad Cough - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with John Nesbitt

Reedymc - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Mark Hammonds

Thought this was a particularly good climb: great holds; great gear; great positions; great location.
markhammonds - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Tom Reed

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Martin Veale, Louise Pellett

Jack Whiteley - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with John Hayes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/11

Chris Manasseh - 2nd - 06/Aug/11 with Charlie Johnson

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/11

wolverine - 2nd - 24/Jul/11 with Matt Sparkes

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Mike Hayes

Absolutely fantastic route - just wish I'd lead it!
Tomber - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Vicki Cotton, Stuart Hurworth

Excellent route, plenty of gear, brilliant moves on steep rock. Would like to second it to get the full feeling of continuous movement over the rock! Don't fancy a solo though!!
Stuart Hurworth - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Vicki Cotton, Tom Kimber

Best severe I've ever done. Quality nice easy climb to end a great day.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Dan Mclaughlin, Liam Taylor

wow, what a severe!
Steven Andrews - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11 with Richard Lines

Barry D - 2nd - 21/Jun/11 with Liz & Dave

SteveM - 2nd - 04/Jun/11 with Kat

kitkat78 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with SteveM

About as good as it gets!
JRae - 2nd - 21/May/11 with Molly G

Peter Holder - Lead O/S - 04/May/11 with Aimee Wariner

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/May/11

Rob Beever - May/11

Awesome route! Best grit severe?
howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Scott

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11

cragtyke - 2nd - 10/Apr/11 with gareth h

Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with JNewbiggin

John Newbiggin - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with samsimpson

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Aug/10

A lovely sunny day and we had the crag to ourselves until joined by 2 more. This is a great severe, maybe the best I've climbed.
manwithacam - Lead - 14/Aug/10 with Sarah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

Oceanic - 03/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/10

Barry D - Lead - 27/Jun/10 with Trish

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Jun/10

Awesome route at the grade - once the chimney has been despatched!
Malcolm Tucker's Sweary Aunt - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/10 with Phil Lucas

Richie Rich - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Tony H

Nice route
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10 with Rich Cutsforth

Pilch - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Graham

asmith37 - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Dave Rose

matthewjames - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Alan Saul

Enjoyed almost as much as first time! Awesome route at severe.
Reaver2k - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Matt Marshall

Lisaaa - Lead - 23/Aug/09 with Mike Watson

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Anna Hammond, Pete aka Dad

Hmmm, didn't lead this too well - no points for style this time! Excellent route at the grade.
embob - Lead - 22/Aug/09 with Alex

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/09

George Ormerod - Lead β - 09/Aug/09 with Buffy

Started drizzling mid-way, very pleasant during a hot day!
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Mike Hibbert

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/09

great route, really good fun
BenJacobs - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Josh

RCrockford - 2nd - 31/May/09 with Andy C

dashitboarder - 2nd - 31/May/09 with Dad and Jess

@ndy - Lead - 31/May/09 with RCrockford

ChuckstarUK - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Nicola and Rob

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/09

Hidden - TR O/S - 15/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09

alun1111 - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08

max_chan - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Lou

Goody - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/08 with Dave Checkley

joe larner - 2nd - 08/Jun/08

gazfellows - Lead - 07/May/08 with shaun d

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/07

swoosh - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Jamie Armatage

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 15/Apr/07 with Nicola Pettit

Absolutely fantastic! First real feel of exposure whilst climbing and never thought it would hit me so much! Felt a little bit wobbley getting out of the chimney but no difficult moves, got further up and felt very exposed. However, the climbing is amazing quality, layback to get onto the crack properly and off you go. I absolutely laced it with gear due being quite terrified. Moved around into the Phoenix Climb's wide crack, asked for directions and went back into the crack, this is where the really beautiful climbing is! Finally onto the exposed upper wall on jugs and up and over! Well protected, sustained easy moves, and great belay up top, overlooking the moor and resiviour, great place to be and hope to be up there when leading VS to do a few of the other classics. Do it next time you're there, no excuses.
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Neil, Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Apr/07

hartke - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/07 with reaver2k

Tom Phillips - 2nd - 05/Aug/06 with mick

colin milton - 2nd - 28/Jul/06 with horace

simonw1 - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/06 with Allan Watson

spacey - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/06 with jo macey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/06

dan gibson - 2nd - 16/Jun/06 with helen gibson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/06

A Crook - 2nd - 04/Jun/06 with Duncan Hassell

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/04

Trobbo - 2nd - 05/Jul/04 with gary

cem - 2nd - 16/May/04 with Natasha Geere

erica - 2nd - 22/Aug/03 with Chris and Malcolm

malc - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/03 with CH

Simon Caldwell - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/03 with Carmen

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/03

JohnHutch - 2nd - 28/Jun/03 with Phil, L

Hidden - Solo - 24/Jun/01

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 2001 with Laura

Dom Whillans - 1999

stokienomad - Lead - Jul/98

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/97 with Joe

Hidden - 1996

Roget - Solo O/S - 27/Jul/91 with chris jones

Rog Wilko - Lead - May/89 with Debbie Wilkinson

Andy Say - Solo O/S - 29/May/87

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/84

Pete Pozman - Lead O/S - Nov/82 with Mike Allen, Garry Rushworth

babymoac - 2nd - 25/Apr/82 with Ben NUMC

nigehughes - Lead - Aug/81 with Gary Kerr

mikej - Lead - 17/Apr/81 with Bob Lewis, Mike Mason

Tom V - 1980

Nigel Bond - Lead - 15/Jul/79 with Tony Cuddy, Martin Crosby

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 02/Nov/69 with Bob Knapton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, alp79, joe hallam, Hidden, Mayaculpa, Hidden, Hinchrn, Hidden, Hidden, parker236, teamrob, Hidden, glennofsheff, Conor1, ayuplass, alexanderpatton, Hidden, The Oracle, Julian Lane, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 106
hard HS0 of 34
HS0 of 34
easy HS0 of 34
hard S14 of 34
S19 of 34
easy S1 of 34
hard HVD0 of 34
HVD0 of 34
easy HVD0 of 34
hard 4b0 of 34
4b0 of 34
easy 4b0 of 34
hard 4a1 of 34
4a33 of 34
easy 4a0 of 34
hard 3c0 of 34
3c0 of 34
easy 3c0 of 34
3 Stars34 of 38
2 Stars4 of 38
1 Star0 of 38
0 Stars0 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
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Style of ascent

Soloed6 of 148 (4.1%)
Lead75 of 148 (50.7%)
Followed54 of 148 (36.5%)
Toproped2 of 148 (1.4%)
Alt Leads1 of 148 (0.7%)
Unknown10 of 148 (6.8%)

'Climbed'66 of 148 (44.6%)
clean O/S79 of 148 (53.4%)
clean β2 of 148 (1.4%)
clean rpt1 of 148 (0.7%)