UKC

An old aid climb which has evolved and been improved. First pegged with the odd bolt and sky hook, First pitch was then freed although the second remain's an aid climb, then the second pitch was done on aid just using natural old manky bolt heads (from the FA). Attempts where made to free the line as a trad route three nasty nose grinding falls where taken then it rained for about five years and never really dried out. Now it uses's the start of real live wire (so the original first pitch is still a trad pitch) a couple of bolt's have been added and it moves above the the over lap and finishes at a lower off higher up the wall.So now the original line still exists, and Talking heads borrows sections to provide a good sport route on an impressive peace of wall. A good effort and should make it more popular.

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Guidebooks for Cheesewring Quarry

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High E5
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High E4
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Route of Interest
Dislocation Dance / Pulses Unreal

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Pentire Point)

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