25m. Direct start to looning the tube, gain access to the lower slab through the tight squeeze tunnel, or the higher easier access tunnels, scramble up to below the main wall along side the easy angled slab, move left after a big bloc, to a bolt belay and stance. Climb towards the looning crack, passing three bolt runners, crux passing the third.

Jim Kelly , John Redhead 27/Mar/2010

Ticklists: AMC Uni Ticklist.

James Beaumont 07/Oct Lead O/S
with Tom Kirby
dinodinosaur 07/Aug 2nd β

Great climbing, seems like an under appreciated route, loved the walk in through the love tunnel. I was absolutely hanging from the night before but really enjoyed the route

with JonesE
JonesE 07/Aug Lead O/S

Not as snappy as expected. All used holds are solid. No real hard pulls required either just a nice technical sequence and a romp up Looning. Quality.

chris nutman ?/Aug Lead O/S

Really enjoyed the techy sequence on this, solid bolts, bit of a stiff move around the third bolt but trust your feet!!

La Mont 07/May Lead
with James Doc
Hidden 20/Jan Lead O/S
tomwright1509 15/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Pulled some choss off great route but a little snappy!

JRJones 27/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Jacob
static266 27/Aug/15 2nd dog
with Joe
cymjt 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Top route, definitely deserves more traffic! Bolts in just the right place and all of the main holds are solid, just a bit flaky in the bottom (easy) bit now.

with David K
David Kay 17/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
jacob shieldhouse hadley 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with jasper cluff
kyaizawa 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Quality climbing and well bolted. Some more traffic would do it some good in terms of cleaning up flaky holds.

Emma Reynolds 11/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Suited my style, seemed much easier than 5a's and 5b's tried earlier in the week! Could be getting back into climbing though

james.slater 24/May/15 2nd O/S
James 'pyjamas' ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Amazoniangirl 06/Feb/15 2nd
mzk 06/Feb/15 Lead
with Rachel
mzk ??/2015 -
joedean ??/2015 -
morgan91 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
adi bryant 28/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 -
jezb1 27/Apr/14 Lead

A really worthwhile variation start to Looning. A little snappy but a good pitch.

Hidden 27/Apr/14 2nd
Sol Armer 01/Apr/14 Lead β
Will Falder 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
rob 528 ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Nov/13 Lead RP
neuromancer 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/13 TR O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/13 TR
spidermonkey09 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Nice, still a bit dirty at the bottom but will clear up. Good small crimping.

Alex Riley 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Anna Y
steveboote ?/Aug/13 Lead
with Vic Belshaw
Jen 'Banksy' Banks 07/Jul/13 Lead dog
Stefan_Morris 07/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with jenny
MarkRoe 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Pulled a hold off just before the first bolt and almost ended up following it down the slab below. Watching this, my belayer was very glad he was anchored in! Despite this 'hiccup', I still agree that this makes a better start to the crack than the original, especially seeing as you use the tube more.

DelorieC13 26/Jun/13 2nd β
ianstevens 02/May/13 Lead O/S

Better than the original start, cool route! Little soft for E2, but probably just about there.

Hidden 02/May/13 2nd O/S
rustaldo 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
Samuel Wainwright 10/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Needs more traffic! soft E2

Sol Armer 10/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Joughton 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Better than the original start really.

twem 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
ches 15/Jul/12 2nd
Andy_B39 22/May/12 Lead O/S
with Sam Tolhurst
Yong_Welsh 05/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Still a bit loose.

Hidden 05/Mar/12 2nd O/S
BenRyle 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 02/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with BenRyle
Hidden 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Drew M 23/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead
Sam Marland 31/May/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic if a little sharp. Started as low as could go for the direct start, though about using what looked like a bolted belay, but started at the ledge below the first bolt all the way up.

Hidden 31/May/11 2nd O/S
gd303uk 01/Mar/11 Lead O/S

A much tougher and technical start to the route above, very nice,

with John Rogers
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Rob Evans ??/2011 Lead O/S

Bolts are close together an seems like a sport route

sam820 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Good route, will be really nice after some more traffic! Lead into 'zzzooming' making a cool route with a good halfway rest.

with Chi
cosreba 02/May/10 Lead O/S

Enjoyable climb, Not to sure on the E2. Came across the expected lose slate since it's new. Can see it becoming a very popular climb.

with Rob
dicky79 02/May/10 2nd O/S
with Pete
adam06 12/Apr/10 2nd

unclipped first bolt from looning and climbed down and seconded this. quite sustained till you get to the looning crack.

hervenuttall ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with ross
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High 6a
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Votes cast 16
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