25m. Direct start to looning the tube, gain access to the lower slab through the tight squeeze tunnel, or the higher easier access tunnels, scramble up to below the main wall along side the easy angled slab, move left after a big bloc, to a bolt belay and stance. Climb towards the looning crack, passing three bolt runners, crux passing the third.

Jim Kelly , John Redhead 27/Mar/2010

Ticklists: AMC Uni Ticklist.

tomwright1509 15/Oct Lead O/S

Pulled some choss off great route but a little snappy!

JRJones 27/Aug Lead O/S
with Jacob
static266 27/Aug 2nd dog
with Joe
cymjt 17/Aug Lead O/S

Top route, definitely deserves more traffic! Bolts in just the right place and all of the main holds are solid, just a bit flaky in the bottom (easy) bit now.

with David K
David Kay 17/Aug 2nd
BAdhoc 18/Jul Lead O/S

Excellent route. Really enjoyed it on lead.

jacob shieldhouse hadley 11/Jun Lead O/S
with jasper cluff
kyaizawa 11/Jun Lead O/S

Quality climbing and well bolted. Some more traffic would do it some good in terms of cleaning up flaky holds.

Emma Reynolds 11/Jun 2nd O/S

Suited my style, seemed much easier than 5a's and 5b's tried earlier in the week! Could be getting back into climbing though

Hidden 24/May 2nd O/S
James 'pyjamas' ?/Apr Lead O/S
Amazoniangirl 06/Feb 2nd
mzk ??/2015 -
joedean ??/2015 -
morgan91 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
adi bryant 28/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 -
jezb1 27/Apr/14 Lead

A really worthwhile variation start to Looning. A little snappy but a good pitch.

Hidden 27/Apr/14 2nd
Sol Armer 01/Apr/14 Lead β
Will Falder 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
rob 528 ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Nov/13 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Nov/13 TR O/S
spidermonkey09 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Nice, still a bit dirty at the bottom but will clear up. Good small crimping.

Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
steveboote ?/Aug/13 Lead
with Vic Belshaw
Jen 'Banksy' Banks 07/Jul/13 Lead dog
Stefan_Morris 07/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with jenny
MarkRoe 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Pulled a hold off just before the first bolt and almost ended up following it down the slab below. Watching this, my belayer was very glad he was anchored in! Despite this 'hiccup', I still agree that this makes a better start to the crack than the original, especially seeing as you use the tube more.

DelorieC13 26/Jun/13 2nd β
ianstevens 02/May/13 Lead O/S

Better than the original start, cool route! Little soft for E2, but probably just about there.

Hidden 02/May/13 2nd O/S
rustaldo 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
Samuel Wainwright 10/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Needs more traffic! soft E2

Sol Armer 10/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Joughton 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Better than the original start really.

twem 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
ches 15/Jul/12 2nd
Andy_B39 22/May/12 Lead O/S
with Sam Tolhurst
Yong_Welsh 05/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Still a bit loose.

Hidden 05/Mar/12 2nd O/S
BenRyle 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 02/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with BenRyle
Hidden 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Drew M 23/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead
Sam Marland 31/May/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic if a little sharp. Started as low as could go for the direct start, though about using what looked like a bolted belay, but started at the ledge below the first bolt all the way up.

Hidden 31/May/11 2nd O/S
gd303uk 01/Mar/11 Lead O/S

A much tougher and technical start to the route above, very nice,

with John Rogers
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Rob Evans ??/2011 Lead O/S

Bolts are close together an seems like a sport route

sam820 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Good route, will be really nice after some more traffic! Lead into 'zzzooming' making a cool route with a good halfway rest.

with Chi
cosreba 02/May/10 Lead O/S

Enjoyable climb, Not to sure on the E2. Came across the expected lose slate since it's new. Can see it becoming a very popular climb.

with Rob
dicky79 02/May/10 2nd O/S
with Pete
adam06 12/Apr/10 2nd

unclipped first bolt from looning and climbed down and seconded this. quite sustained till you get to the looning crack.

hervenuttall ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with ross
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
KeenClimber, Larey, adamre12, Motown, Hidden, mfisher, Hidden, Hidden, Landy_Dom, Kevin Robert Jones, Hidden, Hidden
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 14
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set