The centre of the face is unbalanced with a fierce crux section. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson c2001
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Got this on a top rope second go. Its not 'unbalanced' through the crux section any more presumably due to hols pulling off (see below). I think it's probably harder than 6c+ now though. More like 7a. I'd be reluctant to lead it. Good route though.
really nice climbing at the bottom and the top 3rd but the middle is hard! and fine crimp climbing with sharp edges watch out for holds pulling off!
2nd go. Went a bit too far left on first go
Took some time to work out the crux, sharp small holds with good foot holds.
After finally working out the move on to the slab I kinda head towards the left arete at the top....somehow this didn't 'feel' right? even though it was just before the top of the slab