Rockfax Description
A fine climb which follows an absorbing line up the buttress. Climb the short corner, then pull left onto a slab. Trend diagonally up left then direct to the main break. Move up a steep crack above to the next break then step back right before finishing up a well-positioned groove. Solitary stake belay a long way back. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Toogood, Bob Dearman 1966

admackie 30/Aug Lead

found the crux tough and the gear not so good

the power 30/Aug 2nd O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 05/Jul Lead dnf

Fell off dirty overhanging crack - not quite sure how/why. Gear (excellent thread) held. Broke wrist on impact with slab 5m down. I'll be back!

with Jacob
nickcanute ??/2015 Lead
TobyA 05/Oct/14 Lead dnf

Fell some way off the crux. Followed the Rockfax line closely and what I think is the crux seemed really hard for 5a. The crux of Coral Sea felt much easier.

with Tony B
TonyB 05/Oct/14 2nd
with TobyA
Darron 17/Jul/14 -
Peakphil 16/May/14 Lead O/S

Went up and down crux due to very grassy overgrown section on good holds, then traversed round to complete route.

with Nick
OffshoreAndy ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

The line and description! has changed significantly in the recent rockfax update indicating the crack immediately to the left of coral seas. Unless I really missed something this is very well protected but contains a move significantly harder than 5a. Still needs clarifying as this way has no 'step right'

Hidden ?/Sep/13 2nd dnf
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead dog
Jonathan Hall 02/Jun/13 2nd
ndippie ??/2013 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 16/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Back on only a slightly warmer evening!! Some confusion over the correct line between the BMC 2004 guide and Northern Limestone, Climbed the Rockfax line which looked more interesting but possibly easier. Still very good climbing and well worth its 2 stars whether this is the correct was or not. Awaiting Rockfax update latter this year...

with John
Jim Slater 12/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/11 -
Gambit 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Barney
sideswiper ?/May/11 2nd β

James lead I seconded onsite with a mod to the route about half way up instead of traving left round a big buldge then trav back right james decided to just go straight up over the buldge making it more like an E1 the group agreed on :)

jshields 17/Apr/11 Lead
cragtyke 09/Apr/11 Lead
with john g
Phill Mitch 27/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with bleggs
smudge 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Wobbly block on slab gave me a heart attack as I was running it out since it felt pretty straightforward... that'll teach me.

Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
monkey1 03/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Lead first part including crux, crossed on to 6a route on the right and clipped on! (first HVS so was mega pumped and out of bottle) shouldnt get the tick really. First route to do on next visit

jamesgodwin64 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S

a few things 1. loved it! 2. crux is at the bottom part 3. belay off coral sea's belay bolts!

Graeme Hammond 10/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Got too cold belaying and never really warmed up to think about the climbing too much. Felt like December not JUNE, must go back on a warm evening. Being trad has probably saved it from a lot of traffic and polish. Take care with the large loose flake at the top of the slab

with Andy Jobling
lrandall 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Really enjoyable route. Followed the topo in RockFax's Northern Limestone, which felt very soft for the grade (VS 5a at a push, but more like VS 4c). Chatting to Gary Gibson it seems the original route took a more direct line, which certainly looks more sustained. Well worth the stars though.

with Alex
igneouscarl 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Tom Stahl
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
cem 06/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Mark O'Neill, Rob Truckle
Si dH 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S

The description is wrong - you dont go up the groove from the upper break but up a crack just over to the left (the BMC guide is also wrong, suggesting another groove right next to Coral Seas). The crux is definitely the move up fro mthe to of the diagonal traverse, up said crack. The rest, including the first bulging rack, is never more than tech 4c with good gear. There is now no stake. However, there are several nut placements at the to pof the route - not brilliant but good enough combined with a secure stance.

with Neil Furniss
Different Steve 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Guy Reid
riddle 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Good climb, some very large boulders move with alarming affect! Not so nice in the wind, save this crag for a calm sunny day.

with Kate Landells
bella_d 05/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Katie
Hidden 05/May/08 2nd
thefuturesmiles ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Richard 261 11/Aug/07 Lead

Liked it a lot even though it wanders about. But... there's only one belay point at the top. It's an old stake a long way away and NOTHING else.

with Graham
Martin Haworth ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Richard
Sankey 14/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Great meandering route, toughest at the first bulging crack, and a bit technical for a few moves on the left hand side.

with Reuben
Hidden 13/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2006 -
Sam and will 14/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Anthony Bennett + WIll Nash
Hidden ??/2002 -
Roget 05/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with jon
babymoac 12/Jun/81 Lead
with MTW
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, lewiz, Michael Hood, marcduhig
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 15
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set