Rockfax Description
A fine and devious companion to Rocky Variations up the rock to its right. Start as for Rocky Variations, but trend rightwards up the slab. Make tough moves past the roof at its right-hand edge and continue to ledges. Pull up and right and finish up easier ground. © Rockfax

FA. Bill Birch, Sid Siddiqui 1994. Probably includes the finishing section of One Deadly Variant (HVS 5b) the left-hand finish to Seven Deadly 2000

Ticklists: Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Peak limestone north graded list - sport.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
gavinpeach 03/Sep Lead rpt
admackie 30/Aug Lead
bigdrew 12/Aug TR O/S

Needs someone with a nut and a spanner to tighten one of the bolts. (its the actual stud that is loose and not just the hanger)

Chris Wright 09/Aug Lead rpt
embob 08/Aug Lead

Pleased to get this. Took a while to work out the steep moves around the roof, but managed to commit and keep on going, unlike my normal down-climbing tactical retreats! Excellent varied route.

Nick Sherring 03/Aug Lead O/S

Great route, quite run out but on mostly big cracks and jugs. The technical bit to manoeuvre round the lower roof is the crux.

andybirtwistle 10/Jul Lead
Rick Asher
Nick1812P 09/Jul Lead O/S
Jake Young 09/Jul Lead O/S
tom_lewis89 03/Jul Lead O/S
Alex Thompson 27/Jun Lead O/S
Ian BMW, Sam Carey
dprctr 10/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun Lead β
fifth 12/Apr Lead O/S
gavinpeach 12/Apr Lead dog

2 falls. Freezing and really windy. Numb fingers and toes.

Tommyads ??/2015 -
nickcanute ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
gpcomps 19/Aug/14 Lead dnf

More challenging than it's neighbor. A touch undergraded maybe

DaveMo 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
langirl ?/Jul/14 Lead
alooker 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Alex, Ed
mrteale 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
MrBIond 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
stp 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
rich.manterfield ?/May/14 Lead O/S
George Nunn
tmawer 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Jack ULMC, Chris ULMC
Chris Redding 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
MaccMark 14/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Fall at the crux, in the rain

Jack93 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
dsgarner 03/Aug/13 TR dog

1 fall at crux

Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead rpt
chrisbussell 16/Jul/13 2nd
Tim O'Neill
andybirtwistle 12/Jul/13 Lead

Always find this one tricky A great climb:)

Keith Lonsdale
Andrew Barker 11/Jul/13 Lead β
danoflynn 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hoyes 11/Jul/13 2nd dog
Andrew N
marcduhig 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
M_Robinson 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
ndippie ??/2013 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Got a bit lost at the top and ended up on the anchor for rocky variations. Tough for 6b.

mark20 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Tom Doldon 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
sam simpson 48
sopaz 10/Jun/12 2nd dog
M_W_Court 29/May/12 Lead O/S
Stuart Cartwright
Oliver Branagan 27/May/12 Lead rpt
Mick r 27/May/12 Lead dog

wrong sequence and no stamina...

Roberto 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, start to finish.

robin_hackney 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
justin c ??/2012 Lead O/S

worth the climb!

rob 528 ??/2012 -
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
BeccaSnowden 02/Sep/11 Lead dog

Got a bit confused so rested to work out the crux. Should have RPd it but was feeling lazy!

Hidden 02/Sep/11 Lead
thomasadixon 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 27/Aug/11 Lead RP

Easily on 2nd go after getting numb fingers on crux. Stunningly miserable day for the time of year.

Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Gambit 11/Jun/11 Lead dnf

A larger hailstorm blew the onsight!

jamesgodwin64 11/May/11 Lead β
AsleepOnBelay 10/May/11 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable.

lewiz 26/Apr/11 Lead dog

Jumped off after going a smidge too far right by the crux. So close to onsight and amazing climbing. 3*

smudge 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Superb, much better than it looks! More stable and even better than Rocky variations.

simon1965 24/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Chris the Tall 30/Aug/10 Lead

Managed to go off route after the crux - couldn't spot the bolt - and did a few moves on RV (protected by wires) before realising where I should be. Muppet !

R8JimBob88 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

I was a little worried about this one but was pleasantly surprised. The first slabby section is ok, lots of decent feet but the move around the edge of the roof is a tricky one, easy when you know how though! It then gets a tad steep but on good jugs and the last bolt is a little tricky. The rest is easy. Great route!

Oliver Branagan 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Tired from drinking, and had, had a toppers on the butch Cairn. So was skeptical about an onsight, but loved it! Good moves.

Jim Slater 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
dashitboarder 15/Aug/10 Lead dog

Found really difficult! Lots of rests. Must come back for this.

MaccMark 02/Aug/10 2nd
Philip Jarvis
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
donkster 14/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead dog
metal arms 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Nick Taylor 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Ben Wills
Hidden 29/Jun/10 2nd dog
jamiev 24/Jun/10 Lead β

Lovely route!

Tom Lewis
Hidden 23/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
john lynch 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
joe grondowski, Lewis Andrew
Joe Grondowski 27/Apr/10 Lead
Lewis Andrew, John Lynch
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
JWB 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S

I found it very hard around the overhang, but when Mike climbed it he used a different method and cruised it ......... so important to be able to read the rock.

Mike Allen
Laurence Everitt 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Ray Smith
Diggler 17/Oct/09 Lead dog

Too short for the long move on the crux took some figuring out a way to do it

Andy o Boy
richardhopton 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
simon1965 18/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Sankey 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
tedj234 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
David Liu
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Nicos 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/09 Lead
Alex Mason 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Anonther good route

mick radford
Mick r 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Followed Al up. Tricky move moving right from under the small roof

Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Jun/09 Lead RP
DannyK 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 08/Jun/08 Lead
Andrew Sloan 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 18/May/08 Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose 11/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead O/S
robyn1 ??/2008 -
Mark A Humphries 31/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Dex Marshall
Stig 26/Sep/06 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Jul/06 Lead rpt
Tom Phillips 03/Jul/06 Lead dog
Stone Muppet ??/2006 -
Chesh ?/Sep/05 Lead RP
Dave Mason ?/Sep/05 Lead dog
Trev Tatler
just one more 19/Jun/05 Lead O/S
chris nunn, tim b, Svenn G
Hidden 07/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/04 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/May/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/03 AltLd
goi.ashmore 10/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Rich Tree
Duncan I ?/Jul/03 2nd
Goi Ashmore
Hidden ??/2002 -
phardman 05/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/00 Lead
Hidden 15/Jul/00 2nd
nige ?/Mar/00 Lead
mark hounslea
Gary Coggon ??/2000 Lead O/S
Brian Law
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/99 AltLd
D Tempest 08/Aug/99 Lead
Roget 10/Jun/99 Lead O/S
uphillnow ?/May/99 Lead
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set