A fine and devious companion to Rocky Variations up the rock to its right. Start as for Rocky Variations, but trend rightwards up the slab. Make tough moves past the roof at its right-hand edge and continue to ledges. Pull up and right and finish up easier ground. © Rockfax
FA. Bill Birch, Sid Siddiqui 1994. Probably includes the finishing section of One Deadly Variant (HVS 5b) the left-hand finish to Seven Deadly 2000
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Needs someone with a nut and a spanner to tighten one of the bolts. (its the actual stud that is loose and not just the hanger)
|Chris Wright||09/Aug||Lead rpt|
Pleased to get this. Took a while to work out the steep moves around the roof, but managed to commit and keep on going, unlike my normal down-climbing tactical retreats! Excellent varied route.
|Nick Sherring||03/Aug||Lead O/S||
Great route, quite run out but on mostly big cracks and jugs. The technical bit to manoeuvre round the lower roof is the crux.
|Jake Young||09/Jul||Lead O/S|
|Alex Thompson||27/Jun||Lead O/S||
Ian BMW, Sam Carey
2 falls. Freezing and really windy. Numb fingers and toes.
More challenging than it's neighbor. A touch undergraded maybe
Andrew, Chris Bridgland
|Somerset swede basher||14/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
Jack ULMC, Chris ULMC
|Chris Redding||14/Aug/13||Lead O/S|
Fall at the crux, in the rain
1 fall at crux
Always find this one tricky A great climb:)
|Andrew Barker||11/Jul/13||Lead β|
|Jonathan Hall||02/Jun/13||Lead O/S|
|Ian Bell||08/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
Got a bit lost at the top and ended up on the anchor for rocky variations. Tough for 6b.
|Sam Simpson||12/Jun/12||Lead O/S|
|Tom Doldon||12/Jun/12||Lead O/S||
sam simpson 48
|Oliver Branagan||27/May/12||Lead rpt|
|Mick r||27/May/12||Lead dog||
wrong sequence and no stamina...
|Dave Foster||11/Mar/12||Lead O/S||
Brilliant route, start to finish.
|justin c||??/2012||Lead O/S||
worth the climb!
Got a bit confused so rested to work out the crux. Should have RPd it but was feeling lazy!
|Owen W-G||27/Aug/11||Lead RP||
Easily on 2nd go after getting numb fingers on crux. Stunningly miserable day for the time of year.
A larger hailstorm blew the onsight!
Jumped off after going a smidge too far right by the crux. So close to onsight and amazing climbing. 3*
Superb, much better than it looks! More stable and even better than Rocky variations.
|Chris the Tall||30/Aug/10||Lead||
Managed to go off route after the crux - couldn't spot the bolt - and did a few moves on RV (protected by wires) before realising where I should be. Muppet !
I was a little worried about this one but was pleasantly surprised. The first slabby section is ok, lots of decent feet but the move around the edge of the roof is a tricky one, easy when you know how though! It then gets a tad steep but on good jugs and the last bolt is a little tricky. The rest is easy. Great route!
|Oliver Branagan||22/Aug/10||Lead O/S||
Tired from drinking, and had, had a toppers on the butch Cairn. So was skeptical about an onsight, but loved it! Good moves.
|Jim Slater||16/Aug/10||Lead O/S|
|Graeme Hammond||16/Aug/10||Lead O/S|
Found really difficult! Lots of rests. Must come back for this.
|metal arms||03/Jul/10||Lead O/S|
|Nick Taylor||30/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
|john lynch||27/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
joe grondowski, Lewis Andrew
Lewis Andrew, John Lynch
I found it very hard around the overhang, but when Mike climbed it he used a different method and cruised it ......... so important to be able to read the rock.
|Laurence Everitt||11/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
Too short for the long move on the crux took some figuring out a way to do it
Andy o Boy
|Alex Mason||05/Jul/09||Lead O/S||
Anonther good route
|Mick r||05/Jul/09||Lead O/S||
Followed Al up. Tricky move moving right from under the small roof
|Andrew Sloan||08/Jun/08||Lead O/S|
|Ian Broome||18/May/08||Lead O/S|
|Mark A Humphries||31/Aug/07||Lead O/S||
|Tom Phillips||03/Jul/06||Lead dog|
|Dave Mason||?/Sep/05||Lead dog||
|just one more||19/Jun/05||Lead O/S||
chris nunn, tim b, Svenn G
|Gary Coggon||??/2000||Lead O/S||