Rockfax Description
A fine and devious companion to Rocky Variations up the rock to its right. Start as for Rocky Variations, but trend rightwards up the slab. Make tough moves past the roof at its right-hand edge and continue to ledges. Pull up and right and finish up easier ground. © Rockfax

FA. Bill Birch, Sid Siddiqui 1994. Probably includes the finishing section of One Deadly Variant (HVS 5b) the left-hand finish to Seven Deadly 2000

Ticklists: Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Peak limestone north graded list - sport.

DDDD 17/May Lead O/S

Nice climb

with Mark Hundleby
danJBA 15/May Lead O/S
bobstones 15/May Lead dnf

Thought the crux hold was better so couldn't commit to the crux around the roof as just didn't feel positive but one to go back for now I know what's there.

samh.uk 15/May Lead dog
Parker550 12/May Lead O/S
with Edward Crossland
melv 08/May Lead O/S
with Fi
bryce.dorin 27/Feb Lead O/S
Fraser hill-casey 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/15 Lead rpt
David Sherratt 03/Sep/15 Lead
admackie 30/Aug/15 Lead
bigdrew 12/Aug/15 TR O/S

Needs someone with a nut and a spanner to tighten one of the bolts. (its the actual stud that is loose and not just the hanger)

Chris Wright 09/Aug/15 Lead rpt
embob 08/Aug/15 Lead

Pleased to get this. Took a while to work out the steep moves around the roof, but managed to commit and keep on going, unlike my normal down-climbing tactical retreats! Excellent varied route.

with Alex
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead
Nick Sherring 03/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Great route, quite run out but on mostly big cracks and jugs. The technical bit to manoeuvre round the lower roof is the crux.

andybirtwistle 10/Jul/15 Lead
with Rick Asher
Nick1812P 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Jake
Jake Young 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Nick
tom_lewis89 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Alex Thompson 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Ian BMW, Mr SCarey
dprctr 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/15 Lead β
Scott Anderson 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Gav
Hidden 12/Apr/15 Lead dog
Tommyads ??/2015 -
nickcanute ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
gpcomps 19/Aug/14 Lead dnf

More challenging than it's neighbor. A touch undergraded maybe

with Andrew, Chris Bridgland
DaveMo 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Jan
langirl ?/Jul/14 Lead
alooker 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Alex, Ed
mrteale 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
MrBIond 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
stp 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Patrick
rich.manterfield ?/May/14 Lead O/S
with George Nunn
tmawer 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Bram
Somerset swede basher 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jack ULMC, Chris ULMC
Chris Redding 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
MaccMark 14/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Fall at the crux, in the rain

Jack93 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
augustus trout 14/Aug/13 Lead
dsgarner 03/Aug/13 TR dog

1 fall at crux

Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead rpt
chrisbussell 16/Jul/13 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
andybirtwistle 12/Jul/13 Lead

Always find this one tricky A great climb:)

with Keith Lonsdale
Andrew Barker 11/Jul/13 Lead β
danoflynn 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hoyes 11/Jul/13 2nd dog
with Andrew N
marcduhig 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
M_Robinson 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
ndippie ??/2013 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Got a bit lost at the top and ended up on the anchor for rocky variations. Tough for 6b.

mark20 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Tom Doldon 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with sam simpson 48
sopaz 10/Jun/12 2nd dog
M_W_Court 29/May/12 Lead O/S
with Stuart Cartwright
Oliver Branagan 27/May/12 Lead rpt
with Mick R
Mick r 27/May/12 Lead dog

wrong sequence and no stamina...

with Olli
Roberto 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, start to finish.

with Robin
robin_hackney 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
justin c ??/2012 Lead O/S

worth the climb!

rob 528 ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
BeccaSnowden 02/Sep/11 Lead dog

Got a bit confused so rested to work out the crux. Should have RPd it but was feeling lazy!

with Tom
Hidden 02/Sep/11 Lead
thomasadixon 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Becca
Owen W-G 27/Aug/11 Lead RP

Easily on 2nd go after getting numb fingers on crux. Stunningly miserable day for the time of year.

with Mike
Mike_Hayes 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks
Gambit 11/Jun/11 Lead dnf

A larger hailstorm blew the onsight!

with Barney
jamesgodwin64 11/May/11 Lead β
with viki
AsleepOnBelay 10/May/11 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable.

with Rich G
lewiz 26/Apr/11 Lead dog

Jumped off after going a smidge too far right by the crux. So close to onsight and amazing climbing. 3*

smudge 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Superb, much better than it looks! More stable and even better than Rocky variations.

simon1965 24/Apr/11 Lead
with paul
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Chris the Tall 30/Aug/10 Lead

Managed to go off route after the crux - couldn't spot the bolt - and did a few moves on RV (protected by wires) before realising where I should be. Muppet !

with Daz
R8JimBob88 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

I was a little worried about this one but was pleasantly surprised. The first slabby section is ok, lots of decent feet but the move around the edge of the roof is a tricky one, easy when you know how though! It then gets a tad steep but on good jugs and the last bolt is a little tricky. The rest is easy. Great route!

with Laura
Oliver Branagan 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Tired from drinking, and had, had a toppers on the butch Cairn. So was skeptical about an onsight, but loved it! Good moves.

with Miles M
Jim Slater 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
dashitboarder 15/Aug/10 Lead dog

Found really difficult! Lots of rests. Must come back for this.

with Jess
MaccMark 02/Aug/10 2nd
with Philip Jarvis
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
donkster 14/Jul/10 Lead RP
with jus
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead dog
metal arms 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Nick Taylor 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Ben Wills
Hidden 29/Jun/10 2nd dog
jamiev 24/Jun/10 Lead β

Lovely route!

with Tom Lewis
Hidden 23/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
john lynch 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with joe grondowski, Lewis Andrew
Joe Grondowski 27/Apr/10 Lead
with Lewis Andrew, John Lynch
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
JWB 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S

I found it very hard around the overhang, but when Mike climbed it he used a different method and cruised it ......... so important to be able to read the rock.

with Mike Allen
Laurence Everitt 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Ray Smith
Diggler 17/Oct/09 Lead dog

Too short for the long move on the crux took some figuring out a way to do it

with Andy o Boy
richardhopton 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with nickAL
simon1965 18/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with paul
Sankey 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Jon
tedj234 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with David Liu
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Nicos 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
steveb2006 12/Jul/09 Lead

Val belays only

Alex Mason 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Anonther good route

with mick radford
Mick r 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Followed Al up. Tricky move moving right from under the small roof

Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Jun/09 Lead RP
DannyK 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Katie
Martin Haworth 08/Jun/08 Lead
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 18/May/08 Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Stephen
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead O/S
robyn1 ??/2008 -
Mark A Humphries 31/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Dex Marshall
Stig 26/Sep/06 Lead dog
with Maciek
Hidden 30/Jul/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Tom Phillips 03/Jul/06 Lead dog
with leo
Stone Muppet ??/2006 -
Chesh ?/Sep/05 Lead RP
with ScotsPaul
Dave Mason ?/Sep/05 Lead dog
with Trev Tatler
just one more 19/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with chris nunn, tim b, Svenn G
Hidden 07/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/04 2nd rpt
steveb2006 19/May/04 Lead
with Roland Smith
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
steveb2006 30/Jul/03 AltLd

Both lead - Roland first as black clouds develop

with Roland Smith
goi.ashmore 10/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Rich Tree
Duncan I ?/Jul/03 2nd
with Goi Ashmore
Hidden ??/2002 -
phardman 05/Jul/01 Lead O/S
steveb2006 22/Oct/00 Lead
with Gareth Williams
Hidden 15/Jul/00 2nd
nige ?/Mar/00 Lead
with mark hounslea
Gary Coggon ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Brian Law
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/99 AltLd
D Tempest 08/Aug/99 Lead
with Rick
uphillnow 01/Aug/99 Lead
Roget 10/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
StuartCJones, adam.wood, Tall Gecko Hands, Matthew Davies, AshleyLong, Boulderdaz, Jack Whiteley, crazy pierre, simon pape, tom3667, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, lewiz, Hidden, marcduhig, dashitboarder, Hidden, Chris the Tall
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set