Bugaboos Provincial Park > The Bugaboos >
Northeast Ridge (Bugaboo Spire)*** 5.8

Adjacent Climbs
<< West Ridge of Pidgeon Spire
Lion's Way (Crescent Towers) >>
[Pitch one at sunrise from the Bugaboospire Col, 2 kb]3176m, 12 pitches. 5.8 / D- The North east ridge on Bugaboo Spire was made famous by Roper and Steck's book Fifty Classic Climbs in North America. Like so many Bugaboos climbs, the climbing is varied, the rock good and the position spectacular. A word of caution though, more parties have been benighted on the Northeast Ridge than all the other routes in the Bugaboos combined. Traditionally only half the parties on this route make it back to camp before dark.
Dave Croft, David Isles, Richard Sykes, John Turner Aug/1958

Photo: Pitch one at sunrise from the Bugaboospire Col © Will Homoky
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This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Moved together some the easy stuff.
Jack Loftus - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/13 with Nick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/13

carl_123 - AltLd - 01/Aug/12

Hidden - 01/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Fantastic route in perfect weather! Simul-solo to Bugaboo-crescent col. Alternate Lead P1-P6, Simul-climbed P6-P10. Descent Via Kain route. 11 hrs Tent to tent.
Will Homoky - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Ned Atkins

CMacD - 2004

Hidden - Lead - Jul/97

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 28/Jul/90 with Grahame Nicoll

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Martin Davies, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, HIGHTOWER, peter fry, Hidden, ladislav

Total votes cast 8
hard 5.90 of 4
5.90 of 4
easy 5.90 of 4
hard 5.81 of 4
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easy 5.80 of 4
hard 5.70 of 4
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easy 5.70 of 4
3 Stars4 of 4
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