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The rock varies in character from typically quarried on the lower tier through to more abrasive rock on the upper tier where blasting has uncovered large tracts of calcite-encrusted rock which almost feels like natural limestone. As with most quarries, extra vigilance needs to be exercised by both climber and belayer here given the blasting activity which has created potential for loose rock.

Don't swim in the bright blue toxic pool (as if you needed telling)!

10m.

Rockfax Description
The brown wall is climbed past a worm feature. Belay on the ledge for this and the next two routes. © Rockfax

FA. Nicholls, Bill Birch, Rick Gibbon, Nadim Siddiqui 1994.

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User Date Notes
Gary Gibson 24 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Crackline to tge left is Wilma (5)
βeta?
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βeta: Crackline to tge left is Wilma (5)
Gary Gibson 21 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Now bolted at grade 5
βeta?
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βeta: Now bolted at grade 5
Dainius 20 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: It's now bolted. 5a climb
βeta?
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βeta: It's now bolted. 5a climb
AbE 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of loose rock
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lots of loose rock

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Route of Interest
Route 1

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dovestone Tor)

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