UKC

Restricted Access

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy. 

16m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the line of staples up the centre of the conglomerate past a flake to a ledge. From the ledge, climb past a niche and roof to moves right into a groove to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
New route right of 'The Deflated Dick Head' and left of 'Pothead'. Follow the staples through the roof. Shares lower off with 'Pothead'.

A Rosier 03/May/2010.

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Southeast Wall

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Third Sister to Zulu Zawn)

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