UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.

 

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

100m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A spectacular variation on Kalahari. that also includes the big roof pitch of Free Stonehenge - p.381.
1) 4b, 20m. As for Kalahari.
2) 5c, 16m. Follow Kalahari onto the hanging slab below a roof. Sustained moves left under this lead to a belay.
3) 5c, 15m. Traverse right and prepare yourself for the exposure. Move up into the corner, then undercut your way to glory - a truly outrageous pitch for the grade.
4) 5b, 30m. Trend up and slightly right to a cave and junction with Kalahari.
5) 5b, 28m. As for Kalahari. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
New direct variation of Kalahari, allowing access for mortals to the phenomenal roof traverse that is P3 of Free Stone Henge. P1 (4b, 10m) as for Kalahari. P2 (6a, 30m) - start up the bulge and then diagonally right to a small hanging slab that allows access leftwards around the end of the first roof (crux). Move up to a rest and then launch out right along the undercut flake through the roof to the nose. Belay 5m up the slab. Outstanding. P3 (5b, 30m) - Surmount the cracked face and go up R to the cave to finish up the crack-line as for Kalahari.
Photo topo at http://wikitopo.com/topoViewer.php?topoSelection=images%2FCastell_Helen_2.jpg&topoId=119

Topher Dagg and Henward Nind 11/May/2010.

Ticklists

James' 2015 Summer.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Stewart2 23 Jun, 2018 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely do P2&3 in one pitch!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely do P2&3 in one pitch!

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Missionary-Maze link up

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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