DId 'crux' bulge clean then discovered there is a lot of 6a on this. Hard graft. Topped out at 23.30? Must try an E4 in the daylight some time.philhilo - 2nd dog - 03/Jul/14 with misha
Hard! Fell off three times: after getting very pumped hanging around to place gear on the initial bulge, went for the moves to get established above the bulge but didn't get right foot and hand high enough to get the 'good' pocket above the peg so pumped out and fell off; got the sequence wrong going past the jug which is up and right from the big hole - annoying as it was tricky but not desperate; and finally fell off trying to go directly above the big flattie in the final break - this is where the line in the Rockfax goes but I reckon it was solid 6b, pulling up on mini crimps with nothing for the feet and no decent holds in sight above! The bulge is the crux at 6a but the rest is pretty tough as well, loads of hard 5c or possibly 6a sections and only one really good rest at the big hole, though there are a few half decent shakeouts as well. Took forever to figure out where it goes above the final break as it looked desperate to get through the slightly bulging blank wall above. Traversed left from the flattie but couldn't get up that way, tried direct and fell off, traversed right but it looked hard, in the end traversed right and went for it (right of the bolt) putting faith in what might lie above, cranked out another hard 5c / 6a sequence on small pockets and crimps and made it to easy ground just as it as getting pretty dusky around 10.15pm! Phil seconded by head torch and topped out at 11.15pm. Back at the car for 12.30am and home an hour and a quarter later. Another evening adventure! Great route, will be back to do it clean. Not sure the way I went at the top was the 'right' way but it looked like the only way feasible at 6a?
Misha - Lead dog - 03/Jul/14 with Phil
Hard and pretty wild!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - 2nd - 16/Jun/14 with Rob Greenwood
Hidden - 2014
Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Sep/13
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/13
morganator - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13 with Andrew James
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13
Howard Lawledge - Lead - May/12 with Malc
alaan - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Mat
Took a sit moving out of the layback on the right hand side of the flake as I tried to pull onto the face. Very pumped from faffing too much with the gear and grabbed the bloody quickdraw again! Must get braver and be confident in making objective decisions about achieving relative safety meaning you can climb til you fall off again Matt! First E4 I have got on this year though so pleased to have just made the decision to have got off the ground on one again. Finished up A6 it appears which I traversed into from the final break and then topped out direct.
mattyork2 - Lead dog - 12/Jun/10 with Alan Royle
Excellent, steep sustained climbing!
Russell Birkett - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Tim Whitaker
shark - 2nd - 02/Aug/07 with Dan Arkle
Hidden - 2007
Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/05 with Simon Wren
Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Aug/04
whispering nic - Lead O/S - Aug/01 with Niall
William Robertson - Lead O/S - May/01 with Emily
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 12/Jun/99 with Muir Morton
craig h - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/99 with Chris c
Billg - Lead O/S - 1998 with Phil McAllistair
Hidden - Lead - 15/Jul/97
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/91 with Bruce woodley
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/90
Hidden - 1990
keefe - 02/Aug/86 with Johnny Adams
shark - Lead - Oct/85 with Charlie Stripp
pebblespanker - 2nd dog - 10/Apr/85 with Simon Reed
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis