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|Derbyshire > High Tor >|
|Mad Max|| E6 6c|
|Once one of the most serious routes on British limestone, originally sieged over two days and done in two pitches. Following a clean up and gear replacement, it is now a hard (E6/7b+) but a fairly well-protected climb of the highest quality, done in one huge pitch. Starting just right of M1, climb a wall to reach and climb a desperate bouldery groove then move left to a runner and rest in M1. Move out right and up the shallow groove and trend right up the wall on pockets (bolt) heading for a peg with a tape and junction with V2. Climb back left with difficulty passing a pair of pegs and an awkward to clip and easy to miss bolt. Pull blindly through the bulges above (further bolts) trending left and then direct to finish, avoiding the loose bits. © ROCKFAX|
FA. Dominic Lee, Daniel Lee 1983. The regrading of this route makes it the first E7 in the Peak, predating Moffatt's Verbal Abuse on Raven Tor. However it is likely that the holds used by the Lee brothers have long since fallen off so exactly how hard it
Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers.
This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.
Went wrong way at girdle missing the bolt and lobbing onto pegs. Probably would have fallen off top anyway.
shark - Lead dog - 02/Aug/07 with Dan Arkle
Got scared - wire placement was hidden by cobwebs and foothold broke.
shark - Lead dnf - 28/Jul/07 with John Codling
shark - Lead dog - 22/Jul/05 with Mike Garton
A great morning.Fell once from the top moves which felt harder than i remembered,however the bottom groove felt easier.Always wanted to do this in one pitch.
dominic lee - Lead RP - 10/Jul/05 with daniel lee
Grabbed the bolt at the girdle - rats
shark - Lead dog - 24/Jun/05 with Christian Klem
Gear beta from Graham Hoey. Felt like F7b+...very nearly fell off at the top.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead β - 28/May/05 with Eric Hildrew
Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Sep/04
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mountain Spirit, Hidden