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Highlight*** HVS 5a

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45m, 2 pitches. The long corner with a large capping roof gives a fine route, high in the grade and with a smattering of loose rock for added spice. 1) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner to a belay under the bulge. 2) 5a, 27m. Pull over the bulge then follow the corner to the roof. Traverse wildly left to gain the finishing corner. © ROCKFAX
FFA. Unknown. FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read 1965.

Ticklists: Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 193 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Crack above crux wet
Budge - AltLd O/S - 17/May/13 with Ade

Great climb - tough crux with 'exposed' moves
odox - 2nd - 07/Apr/13 with Sam Webb

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12

WillDoyle - AltLd dog - 22/Sep/12 with Mike

At night with head torch.
Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with pep

Led P2. Felt v exposed on the traverse but loved the layback after
Joemanglerocks - AltLd - 02/Sep/12 with TimKnight

Led P1 (hard for 4b!) - Awesome route; tough moves out of the bulge/stance, roof easier than appearances suggest
TimKnight - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Paul Anker

Followed rob up p1 then chicken out and rapped off
stuart34 - AltLd dnf - 01/Sep/12 with rob dyer

Led P1.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Charles Moreton

Led main pitch. Great route but pretty straightforward & I don't understand the votes for hard HVS & hard 5a, let alone 5b
cem - AltLd rpt - 19/Aug/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12

Rachel lead it as one pitch. Still an amazing route.
Chi Cheng - 2nd rpt - 06/Aug/12 with Rachel Stater

r fizzle - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/12 with Chi Huo Cheng

Lead both pitches. Awesome line and positions, the climbing is brilliant after the first belay. Loose sections provide some interest.
Olli-C - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/12 with Bart Harris

Hidden - AltLd β - 29/Jul/12

luke321 - AltLd - 26/May/12 with Tom Jagger

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 24/May/12 with julie carroll, helen gibson

JRae - Lead - 12/May/12 with Liam P

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/Mar/12

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Sam H

The Grist - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Lee Hamilton

Awesome route, felt harder than I remember. Polished footholds on crux.
marcoleptic - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/12 with Alan

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

neilh - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/11

robin_hackney - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Si

Sebastien Gastaud - 2nd - 01/Oct/11 with Tim Selvage

tigertim - Lead - 01/Oct/11 with Sebastien Gastaud

fine fine positions . glassy holds brings lots of excitement .
cobweb - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/11 with martyn hopson

Hot sweaty weather. A hard 5a move at the crux, and quite pumpy. Good rest on the arete before the final layback. Shame about the lower round the corner that could easily be clipped...
Hardonicus - Lead rpt - 25/Aug/11 with nick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/11

lead pitch 2
dave_rose - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/11

dionisys - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with vanderz

Stoney Boy - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/11 with Nick Conway

vanderz - Lead rpt - Aug/11

Led 2nd pitch. Would be better to do it in one long pitch.
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Jim Lear

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/11

PeteH - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/11 with John Cooper

lead as one pitch. One of the best HVS I've done so far.
Chi Cheng - Lead - 15/Jun/11 with Jon Fane

Done twice before, first time 92/93. Done in a single pitch.
jshields - Lead - 11/Jun/11 with Ed James

davewsargent - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/11 with andy

Matt Shepherd - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11

Did first pitch. The pull over the bulge on pitch 2 is awkward. This climb is a poor man's 'Great North Road', but not a bad route
Andrew Sloan - AltLd rpt - 22/Apr/11

Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Andy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Ally Smith

dav - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Gill B

Led P2
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Guy Reid

rich_hw - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10

Excellent, led 2nd pitch
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Richard

Led 1st pitch - felt hard for 4b. Very good second pitch.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/10 with Alan Saul

vanderz - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with patrick dawson

stephenhartley - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/10

Started at midnight, awesome fun! Lead the 2nd pitch.
Matt Fry - AltLd rpt - 10/Aug/10 with Lisa Alhadeff, Andy Janezko

Finished just before 3am
bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/10 with Lisa, Matt Fry

LAlhadeff - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Matt Fry, Andy

Little B - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/10 with Rich

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/10

Lead with dale, I did second pitch, and dale belayed a little early. Made for an interesting change over. Second pitch is nice, a little polished on the crux though. Roof is brilliant delicate, I discovered what traversing wildly means. Layback is wicked as well. Nikki fell off on skylight next to us, a little worrying as some of her gear came out :s
jayrenegade - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Dale

twright180 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

I found the crux needed complex and hard move, felt hard 5b. Another fantastic route, probably the best HVS limestone route I have ever done.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/10 with Graeme B

could not turn the bulge without resporting to aid. given the light was fading I decided to come off and be lowered back down. The move to get past the bulge is harder than 5a.
gb83 - 2nd dnf - 08/Jun/10 with masa

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10 with Nick Sillum

decs - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Ian

ics - AltLd - 18/Apr/10 with Duncan Steen

Hard Second Pitch
freakyboy777 - AltLd O/S - Apr/10 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Mar/10

Adam Lincoln - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/10 with Duncan Critchley

fatblacktone - Lead dog - 2010

Seymore Butt - 2010

nickcanute - Lead - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/09

Mr Wild - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Adam Moroz

wolverine - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Matt Sparkes

Stone Rooster - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/09 with Tom Wild

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/09

Led the second pitch. Another classic.
thrutch - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Milne

led 1st pitch.
Milne - AltLd rpt - 02/Aug/09 with tim

Niall led 1st pitch, I led the crux pitch! The crux was actually getting past the mid way belay! Lovely route, felt easy though, but worth every star!
porridgefan - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Niall Francis

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/09

Sankey - Lead - 14/Jun/09 with Luke

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jun/09

2nd pitch. scary first few metres off the belay stance in the 2nd pitch. The only protection was some very dodgy pegs.
duzinga - AltLd - 12/Jun/09 with Pete

mic_b - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/09 with Ben

Really superb climbing despite many dodgy blocks towards the start - crux half way up takes some thought! Done in one pitch on 60m ropes. mic_b's biner got stuck in a peg near the top if anyone manages to retrieve it!
bbangbala - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/09 with mic_b

Good rote loads of gear and a brillyant lay back at the top
Andy Peak 1 - AltLd - 28/Apr/09 with pabage

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 19/Apr/09

chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Sam Keyne

pabbage - 2009

Fantastic route, really super exposed and exciting adventure climbing.
mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - 28/Oct/08 with Jenny Clarke

utter quality, spectacular travrese. led 2nd pitch. easier than original route.
Milne - AltLd O/S - 03/Oct/08 with john chambers

led first pitch
Jenny Clarke - AltLd O/S - Oct/08 with mattyork2

thefuturesmiles - AltLd O/S - Oct/08

danm - 2nd - 14/Sep/08 with Sion

Kevin Avery - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08

Horrid
ian caton - AltLd - 04/Jul/08 with Abi

Led first pitch.
Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/08 with Ian

Hidden - AltLd dog - 06/Jun/08

philhilo - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Ed Shaw

Led second pitch. Tough first few moves at start of pitch - rested on gear. Fantastic pitch.
Jim Slater - AltLd dog - 10/May/08 with Al Smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/May/08

Layback after the roof is absolutely brilliant, and superb jugs going across under the roof. Fab. Loved it.
Sam1991 - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08 with Matt

Matt Fry - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Sam Dixon

Hidden - 2008

AntiGrav - 2008

Hidden - 2008

A Crook - AltLd O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Neil Griffiths

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/07

great route
rayash - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/07 with johnlisle

general - 11/Aug/07 with Rampant

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/07

smudge - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/07 with Rob

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/07

Done in one pitch with 60m ropes.
Ropeboy - Lead - 20/May/07

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Apr/07

dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/07 with Sion

Nicos - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07 with rich howels

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/07

Hidden - 2007

Si dH - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06 with Neil Furniss

Sankey - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/06 with Luke

P1 and P2 as one (repeated on 14/6/09 - Stephen led both pitches).
thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/06 with Stephen

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/06

danm - AltLd - Oct/06

cem - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/06 with Graham Dolman

ChrisJD - 2nd - 10/Jun/06 with rc

Hidden - 10/Jun/06

chrisclimber_1986 - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/06 with William Kelsall

Hidden - Lead - Apr/06

with the rammeister, quite a tough set of moves leaving the first stance quite polished and quite nice under the roof!
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Steve Ramsden

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/05

Belier - Lead O/S - 2005 with Alex Mason

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jul/04

Hidden - AltLd dog - 15/Jun/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/May/03

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Apr/03

Dave Bond - Lead - 2003 with Andy Price

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/02

Hidden - 2nd - 01/May/01

with roy
philb - Lead - 2000

EagerAndy - 2000

Roget - Solo O/S - 28/Aug/99

First lead with a hanging belay, and also the first route that I managed to get the loop on the back of my rock boot clipped to gear on my harness while doing a high step at the crux!
Nick Smith - UKC - AltLd O/S - Aug/99 with Johannes Felter

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - Mar/99 with Val Hennelly

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/98 with Nicky

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jul/97

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jul/96

colin milton - AltLd - 12/May/95

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/93 with Moley

I led the top pitch
Chris Ellis - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/93 with Rick Kerr

leathers - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/93 with Martin Vimpany

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/92

whispering nic - Lead - 21/Jul/91 with Graham Iles

ChrisJD - AltLd - 18/Aug/90 with Alex

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 1987

keefe - 26/Jun/86 with Johnny Adams

Tried to climb the Highlight roof but pulled a crucial jug off. Peg is still there.
shark - Lead - 08/Mar/86 with Phill Dickens

Finished up this as Cannery Row was iced up!
shark - Lead rpt - 25/Jan/86 with Paul Hempstock

Derek Furze - 1986

Climbed in big boots.
eroica64 - 2nd - 25/Aug/85 with John Graeme

andy gittins - 1985

Done in appalling conditions - scared Seb - how the table turned !
shark - Lead rpt - Nov/84 with Seb Grieve

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/84

malc - AltLd - 20/May/84

shark - 2nd O/S - 12/May/84 with Phill Dickens

Mike Owen - 10/Oct/82 with Elaine Owen

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 09/May/82 with Ian Milne

mark-abz - Lead - 27/Mar/82 with Andy W

Hammy - Lead - 31/Jan/82 with Rob Beaumont

babymoac - 2nd - 07/Nov/81 with MTW

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/81 with Irish George

Hidden - AltLd - 1981

Hidden - 1981

Andy Fielding - AltLd - 07/Sep/80

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980 with Colin Binks

Nigel Bond - Lead - 12/Jul/79 with Martin Crosby

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 03/Jul/77 with Bob Knapton

GeoffG - 2nd - 04/Jun/77 with tony bowker

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 06/Feb/77 with Paul Clark

Falko - AltLd O/S - 29/Feb/76 with Al W.

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/75

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, sazmaz, iceaxejuggler, Hidden, Sam1991, Hidden, LittleJoe, PanzerHanzler, Jezza, Nedley, Whealiebob

Voting
Total votes cast 179
hard E10 of 64
E10 of 64
easy E14 of 64
hard HVS34 of 64
HVS23 of 64
easy HVS3 of 64
hard VS0 of 64
VS0 of 64
easy VS0 of 64
hard 5b0 of 65
5b1 of 65
easy 5b18 of 65
hard 5a30 of 65
5a16 of 65
easy 5a0 of 65
hard 4c0 of 65
4c0 of 65
easy 4c0 of 65
3 Stars38 of 50
2 Stars11 of 50
1 Star1 of 50
0 Stars0 of 50
Bag of .....0 of 50
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 193 (0.5%)
Lead67 of 193 (34.7%)
Followed25 of 193 (13.0%)
Alt Leads82 of 193 (42.5%)
Unknown18 of 193 (9.3%)

'Climbed'68 of 193 (35.2%)
clean O/S106 of 193 (54.9%)
clean β1 of 193 (0.5%)
clean rpt10 of 193 (5.2%)
clean RP1 of 193 (0.5%)
dogged5 of 193 (2.6%)
dnf2 of 193 (1.0%)