Derbyshire > High Tor >
Laurin** E3 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Castellan
Nightmare of Brown Donkeys >>
40m, 2 pitches. Two contrasting pitches, each with a short hard section between rests and lots of exposure. The upper crack can get choked with dirt. It can be done in one long pitch with a few long extenders, thus missing out the tricky stance. 1) 5c, 20m. Leave the Castellan cave by the higher of two breaks until you can climb up the right-most of three grooves. Move left on pockets to gain a fine stance below the roof (the best gear for the belay requires a trip to the roof and back). 2) 6a, 20m. Climb up to the roof and make a desperate move (easier for the tall) up the steep roof crack above (good thread) in a sensational position. Finish more easily above. © ROCKFAX
FFA. Martin Berzins, Chris Hamper 1977. FA.Paul Nunn, Oliver Woolcock 1964.
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This climb is in 26 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Excellent. Fantastically exposed top roof. Found first pitch crux harder than second pitch crux for some reason.
andi turner - Lead - 24/Aug/11 with John Perry

Followed the 1st pitch from the cave but failed to lead the crux pitch through the overhang, so led final pitch of Nightmare instead.
kingholmesy - 2nd - 2011 with Andy S & Dominic O

2nd pitch too dirty through roof, downclimbed and went left instead but lobbed onto gear to prevent throwing rocks at belayer! Exciting belay too...
alaan - Lead - 04/Jul/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Brown - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Pete

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jul/07

Hidden - 2007

Boy - 2006

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Aug/04

William Robertson - Lead O/S - May/01 with Emily

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/91

Hidden - 1990

DDDD - AltLd O/S - 1989

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/88

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Jun/88

sadams - AltLd - 01/Aug/86 with Kevin Edwards

shark - AltLd - 01/May/85 with Dave Marsh

andy gittins - 1985

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis

Chris led the crux pitch well, but I struggled to get above the overhang and had to have help.
Andy Stephenson - AltLd dog - 05/Sep/81 with Chris Plant

Hauled up it!
Mark Kemball - 2nd - 27/Jun/81 with John Jefferies

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/81

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/80

Chris Craggs - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden

Total votes cast 6
hard E40 of 2
E40 of 2
easy E42 of 2
hard E30 of 2
E30 of 2
easy E30 of 2
hard E20 of 2
E20 of 2
easy E20 of 2
hard 6b0 of 2
6b0 of 2
easy 6b0 of 2
hard 6a2 of 2
6a0 of 2
easy 6a0 of 2
hard 5c0 of 2
5c0 of 2
easy 5c0 of 2
3 Stars2 of 2
2 Stars0 of 2
1 Star0 of 2
0 Stars0 of 2
Bag of .....0 of 2
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Style of ascent

Lead7 of 26 (26.9%)
Followed2 of 26 (7.7%)
Alt Leads9 of 26 (34.6%)
Unknown8 of 26 (30.8%)

'Climbed'16 of 26 (61.5%)
clean O/S7 of 26 (26.9%)
clean rpt1 of 26 (3.8%)
dogged1 of 26 (3.8%)
dnf1 of 26 (3.8%)