Derbyshire > High Tor >
 
Laurin** E3 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Castellan
 
Nightmare of Brown Donkeys >>
40m, 2 pitches. Two contrasting pitches, each with a short hard section between rests and lots of exposure. The upper crack can get choked with dirt. It can be done in one long pitch with a few long extenders, thus missing out the tricky stance. 1) 5c, 20m. Leave the Castellan cave by the higher of two breaks until you can climb up the right-most of three grooves. Move left on pockets to gain a fine stance below the roof (the best gear for the belay requires a trip to the roof and back). 2) 6a, 20m. Climb up to the roof and make a desperate move (easier for the tall) up the steep roof crack above (good thread) in a sensational position. Finish more easily above. © ROCKFAX
FFA. Martin Berzins, Chris Hamper 1977. FA.Paul Nunn, Oliver Woolcock 1964.
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14

Led 2nd
Apharri - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/14 with Jim Gayler

mike mo - 2014

Excellent. Fantastically exposed top roof. Found first pitch crux harder than second pitch crux for some reason.
andi turner - Lead - 24/Aug/11 with John Perry

Followed the 1st pitch from the cave but failed to lead the crux pitch through the overhang, so led final pitch of Nightmare instead.
kingholmesy - 2nd - 2011 with Andy S & Dominic O

2nd pitch too dirty through roof, downclimbed and went left instead but lobbed onto gear to prevent throwing rocks at belayer! Exciting belay too...
alaan - Lead - 04/Jul/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Brown - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Pete

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jul/07

Hidden - 2007

Boy - 2006

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Aug/04

William Robertson - Lead O/S - May/01 with Emily

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/91

Hidden - 1990

DDDD - AltLd O/S - 1989

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/88

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Jun/88

sadams - AltLd - 01/Aug/86 with Kevin Edwards

shark - AltLd - 01/May/85 with Dave Marsh

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/85

andy gittins - 1985

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis

Chris led the crux pitch well, but I struggled to get above the overhang and had to have help.
Andy Stephenson - AltLd dog - 05/Sep/81 with Chris Plant

Hauled up it!
Mark Kemball - 2nd - 27/Jun/81 with John Jefferies

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/81

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/80

Chris Craggs - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 12
hard E40 of 4
E40 of 4
easy E44 of 4
hard E30 of 4
E30 of 4
easy E30 of 4
hard E20 of 4
E20 of 4
easy E20 of 4
hard 6b0 of 4
6b0 of 4
easy 6b0 of 4
hard 6a3 of 4
6a1 of 4
easy 6a0 of 4
hard 5c0 of 4
5c0 of 4
easy 5c0 of 4
3 Stars4 of 4
2 Stars0 of 4
1 Star0 of 4
0 Stars0 of 4
Bag of .....0 of 4
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Style of ascent

Lead8 of 31 (25.8%)
Followed2 of 31 (6.5%)
Alt Leads12 of 31 (38.7%)
Unknown9 of 31 (29.0%)

'Climbed'19 of 31 (61.3%)
clean O/S9 of 31 (29.0%)
clean rpt1 of 31 (3.2%)
dogged1 of 31 (3.2%)
dnf1 of 31 (3.2%)