Nightmare of Brown Donkeys*** E3 5c
48m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Intricate route finding in wild positions - an underrated classic which needs a steady second. Be aware of the state of the old fixed gear and back it up.
1) 5b, 15m. Leave the Castellan cave along the lower break, as for Delicatessen, to the stance on Lyme Cryme.
2) 5c, 15m. Traverse back left for 2m and pull up into a shallow groove from the right. Climb the groove (slightly bold) to gain a crack leading to a bong (a big old peg). Clip this then drop back down and make a hard finger traverse left to a stance on Laurin. There are good thread belays under the roof above.
3) 5c, 18m. Climb to the roof and undercut leftwards (peg) under the roof. Finish up the loose groove (old gear).
An alternative is The Phrantic Finish, E3 5c which tackles the roof direct to a good hold on the lip. © ROCKFAX

FFA. Pete Livesey, Pete Gomersall 1975. FA. Charles David Yates, Steve Read 1974.

Ticklists: World Graded List.

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This climb is in 60 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

ellis - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/15 with Tom Holdsworth

Was gripped most of the way up. Found this hard for e3
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/15 with little tom

Led p2 and 3. Thought p2 was a bit more than slightly bold off the belay but I haven't done much trad in a while. Really enjoyed the crux traverse left. (It is very easy to protect the second on this by clipping one rope into the thread under the roof, and leaving them free to clip the other into the leaver biner on the bong). Bubbles made a valiant attempt at the top pitch only to be thwarted a few moves from easier ground. Good effort mate.
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/15 with Bubbles

P1 and 3.
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/14 with Tim Newton

Lead the bolted 6b approach pitch and then pitch 2 of the route.
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/14 with rachel slater

Pitches 2 and 3, pitch 2, hard above the belay without much gear, then some great pocket pulling to finish the pitch, p3 had some moments as well. Great route, really good positions.
Brannock - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/14

Martin Haworth - AltLd dog - 16/Aug/14 with John Brannock

mike mo - 2014

morganator - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Neil McAdie, Sophie Whyte

soph - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Neil McAdie, jon morgan

Led 1st and last pitches. Fell of the traverse on P2 - solid 6a traverse on next to nothing. Top roof pitch felt easy for 5c - thankfully.
philhilo - AltLd dog - 09/Jul/13 with misha

Evening hit on a boiling hot day. Did the F6b approach pitch, which was enjoyable. Got pretty hot on that but afterwards the temperature was pleasant. Phil led P1, which required commitment but the crux was over in a flash. I got the crux second pitch. Mildly bold 5c to enter the groove, then pleasantly easy, then the crux traverse, which was desperate! 6a for sure. Main issue was poor feet on a couple of the moves. I managed it ok but it was close! Phil came off seconding but didn't go far as I passed his ropes through gear above the traverse. Phil finished with the third pitch - only one 5c sequence and some 5b but a good pitch nonetheless. A good, varied route.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Phil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

Backed off top pitch after trying to go the wrong way up the E5 a few times and being a massive fem. Pretty tough fingery crux.
JRae - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Liam P

Paul led pitches 2+3, great effort despite a fall. Bit of a nightmare!
jshields - AltLd - 08/Jun/11 with Paul Tretheway

Last pitch only - led after failing to get through the overhang on Laurin.
kingholmesy - Lead - 2011 with Andy S & Dominic O

Led all pitches
metal arms - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Great route. Added the logical started up Lyme Cryme. Beware rope drag if you run the top pitches together...
Adam Long - AltLd - 28/Jul/10 with Char Williams

Led P1 and P2.
Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Mike Todd

P1 of Laurin + top pitch of NBD as Laurin P2 crack full of soil & wet
Dave Turnbull, BMC - AltLd - 21/Mar/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

nickcanute - Lead - 2010

JulesV - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09 with toby dunn

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/09 with Malcolm Scott

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/08 with Kim Hayward

led middle pitch
Ram MkiV - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/08 with Al

Lead first and third pitch, quite tricky climbing through the roof, great route, well varied in grade and style.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/08 with Steve Ramsden

Took a higher traverse on the first pitch (common with Laurin?) and downclimbed to the stance, which was desperate!
alaan - AltLd - 10/May/08 with Aly

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2007

Boy - 2006

shark - AltLd rpt - 22/Jul/05 with Mike Garton

Dave Bond - AltLd - 07/Jun/05 with Simon Wren

nickdonohue - Lead - Sep/02 with Jim Barradale

William Robertson - Lead O/S - May/01 with Emily

Andy Edgar - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/99

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/97

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 22/May/95 with Tom Briggs

Led Pitch 3
Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 01/May/93 with Bob Marks, Neil McCallum

Billg - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/93 with Phil McAllistair

Hidden - 1990

Pete Ogden - AltLd - 1990 with Pete Brown

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Mar/89

no record but either Andrew Horn or Charlie French?
uphillnow - 2nd - 1988

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/87

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/87

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 10/Dec/86 with Simon Donowho

sadams - AltLd - 01/Aug/86 with Kevin Edwards

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/86

Derek Furze - 1986

shark - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/85 with Dave Marsh

andy gittins - 1985

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis

TonyF - 1983

nbotting - AltLd - 1982

Chris Craggs - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 1980

Hidden - 1978

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Total votes cast 65
hard E40 of 22
E40 of 22
easy E40 of 22
hard E34 of 22
E318 of 22
easy E30 of 22
hard E20 of 22
E20 of 22
easy E20 of 22
hard 6a1 of 22
6a7 of 22
easy 6a10 of 22
hard 5c4 of 22
5c0 of 22
easy 5c0 of 22
hard 5b0 of 22
5b0 of 22
easy 5b0 of 22
3 Stars13 of 21
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