Derbyshire > High Tor >
 
Nightmare of Brown Donkeys*** E3 6a

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<< Laurin
 
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48m, 3 pitches. Intricate route finding in wild positions - an underrated classic which needs a steady second. Be aware of the state of the old fixed gear and back it up. 1) 5b, 15m. Leave the Castellan cave along the lower break, as for Delicatessen, to the stance on Lyme Cryme. 2) 5c, 15m. Traverse back left for 2m and pull up into a shallow groove from the right. Climb the groove (slightly bold) to gain a crack leading to a bong (a big old peg). Clip this then drop back down and make a hard finger traverse left to a stance on Laurin. There are good thread belays under the roof above. 3) 5c, 18m. Climb to the roof and undercut leftwards (peg) under the roof. Finish up the loose groove (old gear). An alternative is The Phrantic Finish, E3 5c which tackles the roof direct to a good hold on the lip. © ROCKFAX
FFA. Pete Livesey, Pete Gomersall 1975. FA. Charles David Yates, Steve Read 1974.
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 47 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

morganator - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Neil McAdie, Sophie Whyte

soph - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Neil McAdie, jon morgan

Led 1st and last pitches. Fell of the traverse on P2 - solid 6a traverse on next to nothing. Top roof pitch felt easy for 5c - thankfully.
philhilo - AltLd dog - 09/Jul/13 with misha

Evening hit on a boiling hot day. Did the F6b approach pitch, which was enjoyable. Got pretty hot on that but afterwards the temperature was pleasant. Phil led P1, which required commitment but the crux was over in a flash. I got the crux second pitch. Mildly bold 5c to enter the groove, then pleasantly easy, then the crux traverse, which was desperate! 6a for sure. Main issue was poor feet on a couple of the moves. I managed it ok but it was close! Phil came off seconding but didn't go far as I passed his ropes through gear above the traverse. Phil finished with the third pitch - only one 5c sequence and some 5b but a good pitch nonetheless. A good, varied route.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Phil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

Backed off top pitch after trying to go the wrong way up the E5 a few times and being a massive fem. Pretty tough fingery crux.
JRae - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Liam P

Paul led pitches 2+3, great effort despite a fall. Bit of a nightmare!
jshields - AltLd - 08/Jun/11 with Paul Tretheway

Last pitch only - led after failing to get through the overhang on Laurin.
kingholmesy - Lead - 2011 with Andy S & Dominic O

Led all pitches
metal arms - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Great route. Added the logical started up Lyme Cryme. Beware rope drag if you run the top pitches together...
Adam Long - AltLd - 28/Jul/10 with Char Williams

Led P1 and P2.
Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Mike Todd

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Mar/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

nickcanute - Lead - 2010

JulesV - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09 with toby dunn

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/09 with Malcolm Scott

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/08 with Kim Hayward

led middle pitch
Ram MkiV - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/08 with Al

Lead first and third pitch, quite tricky climbing through the roof, great route, well varied in grade and style.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/08 with Steve Ramsden

Took a higher traverse on the first pitch (common with Laurin?) and downclimbed to the stance, which was desperate!
alaan - AltLd - 10/May/08 with Aly

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2007

Boy - 2006

shark - AltLd rpt - 22/Jul/05 with Mike Garton

Dave Bond - AltLd - 07/Jun/05 with Simon Wren

nickdonohue - Lead - Sep/02 with Jim Barradale

William Robertson - Lead O/S - May/01 with Emily

EagerAndy - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/99

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/97

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 22/May/95 with Tom Briggs

Led Pitch 3
Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 01/May/93 with Bob Marks, Neil McCallum

Billg - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/93 with Phil McAllistair

Hidden - 1990

Pete Ogden - AltLd - 1990 with Pete Brown

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Mar/89

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/87

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/87

sadams - AltLd - 01/Aug/86 with Kevin Edwards

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/86

Derek Furze - 1986

shark - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/85 with Dave Marsh

andy gittins - 1985

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis

nbotting - AltLd - 1982

Chris Craggs - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Justin T, Nick Sillem, Si dH, Just Another Dave, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, greenclimb, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 48
hard E40 of 17
E40 of 17
easy E40 of 17
hard E30 of 17
E317 of 17
easy E30 of 17
hard E20 of 17
E20 of 17
easy E20 of 17
hard 6b0 of 16
6b0 of 16
easy 6b0 of 16
hard 6a1 of 16
6a6 of 16
easy 6a5 of 16
hard 5c4 of 16
5c0 of 16
easy 5c0 of 16
3 Stars8 of 15
2 Stars7 of 15
1 Star0 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent

Lead13 of 47 (27.7%)
Followed2 of 47 (4.3%)
Alt Leads22 of 47 (46.8%)
Unknown10 of 47 (21.3%)

'Climbed'26 of 47 (55.3%)
clean O/S19 of 47 (40.4%)
clean rpt1 of 47 (2.1%)
dogged1 of 47 (2.1%)