Derbyshire > High Tor >
 
Nightmare of Brown Donkeys*** E3 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Laurin		 
Party in the Park >>
48m, 3 pitches. Intricate route finding in wild positions - an underrated classic which needs a steady second. Be aware of the state of the old fixed gear and back it up. 1) 5b, 15m. Leave the Castellan cave along the lower break, as for Delicatessen, to the stance on Lyme Cryme. 2) 5c, 15m. Traverse back left for 2m and pull up into a shallow groove from the right. Climb the groove (slightly bold) to gain a crack leading to a bong (a big old peg). Clip this then drop back down and make a hard finger traverse left to a stance on Laurin. There are good thread belays under the roof above. 3) 5c, 18m. Climb to the roof and undercut leftwards (peg) under the roof. Finish up the loose groove (old gear). An alternative is The Phrantic Finish, E3 5c which tackles the roof direct to a good hold on the lip. © ROCKFAX
FFA. Pete Livesey, Pete Gomersall 1975. FA. Charles David Yates, Steve Read 1974.
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 41 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Led all pitches. Made the mistake of running the first 2 pitches together as people were on LC. Rope drag was a bitch and I took ages trying to work out the pokey drop down left, defo felt 6a.
liam - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Jonny

Backed off top pitch after trying to go the wrong way up the E5 a few times and being a massive fem. Pretty tough fingery crux.
JRae - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Liam P

Paul led pitches 2+3, great effort despite a fall. Bit of a nightmare!
jshields - AltLd - 08/Jun/11 with Paul Tretheway

Last pitch only - led after failing to get through the overhang on Laurin.
kingholmesy - Lead - 2011 with Andy S & Dominic O

Led all pitches
metal arms - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Great route. Added the logical started up Lyme Cryme. Beware rope drag if you run the top pitches together...
Adam Long - AltLd - 28/Jul/10 with Char Williams

Led P1 and P2.
Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Mike Todd

P1 of Laurin + top pitch of NBD as Laurin P2 crack full of soil & wet
Dave Turnbull, BMC - AltLd - 21/Mar/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

nickcanute - Lead - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2010

JulesV - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09 with toby dunn

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/09 with Malcolm Scott

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/08 with Kim Hayward

led middle pitch
Belier - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/08 with Al

Lead first and third pitch, quite tricky climbing through the roof, great route, well varied in grade and style.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/08 with Steve Ramsden

Took a higher traverse on the first pitch (common with Laurin?) and downclimbed to the stance, which was desperate!
alaan - AltLd - 10/May/08 with Aly

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2007

Boy - 2006

shark - AltLd rpt - 22/Jul/05 with Mike Garton

Dave Bond - AltLd - 07/Jun/05 with Simon Wren

William Robertson - Lead O/S - May/01 with Emily

EagerAndy - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/99

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/97

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 22/May/95 with Tom Briggs

Billg - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/93 with Phil McAllistair

Hidden - 1990

Pete Ogden - AltLd - 1990 with Pete Brown

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Mar/89

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/87

sadams - AltLd - 01/Aug/86 with Kevin Edwards

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/86

Derek Furze - 1986

shark - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/85 with Dave Marsh

andy gittins - 1985

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis

nbotting - AltLd - 1982

Chris Craggs - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Nick Sillem, Si dH, Just Another Dave, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, barni, greenclimb, Hidden, Hidden
Voting
Total votes cast 45
hard E40 of 16
E40 of 16
easy E40 of 16
hard E30 of 16
E316 of 16
easy E30 of 16
hard E20 of 16
E20 of 16
easy E20 of 16
hard 6b0 of 15
6b0 of 15
easy 6b0 of 15
hard 6a1 of 15
6a6 of 15
easy 6a4 of 15
hard 5c4 of 15
5c0 of 15
easy 5c0 of 15
3 Stars7 of 14
2 Stars7 of 14
1 Star0 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead10 of 41 (24.4%)
Followed1 of 41 (2.4%)
Alt Leads20 of 41 (48.8%)
Unknown10 of 41 (24.4%)

'Climbed'25 of 41 (61.0%)
clean O/S15 of 41 (36.6%)
clean rpt1 of 41 (2.4%)