51m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic journey crossing the main face. With the exception of one short sequence, the climbing is no harder than 5b with delightful balance moves between good pockets. Approach via the 1st pitch of Skylight and a long ramble rightwards along the grubby ledge system.
1) 5c, 27m. From the Castellan cave, follow the lower break to gain a rest at the Lyme Cryme stance (possible belay). The juggy crack above is climbed until it is possible to cross the pocketed wall rightwards to the Debauchary stance.
2) 5b, 24m. Pick-pocket daintily rightwards to Darius and follow the juggy flakes up and right until another delicate sequence leads to Original Route. Finish up this or abseil off.
Darius Finish, 5c. A superb alternative, which improves one of the finest E2s around, is to belay after the delicate traverse on pitch 2 and then finish up Darius. © Rockfax

FFA. Unknown. FA. (Pitch 1) Chris Jackson, John Atkinson 1965. (Full route) Jack Street, Ed Ward-Drummond (some aid) 1965.

Ticklists: Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads.

Brannock 09/Aug AltLd rpt

Lead p1

SamN 25/Jul TR dog
spidermonkey09 25/Jul Lead

Lead both pitches. Found the first one tough, gear was not the most inspiring and not obvious at all which way to go. Second lovely balancey climbing. Great route but not as good as Debauchery.

dan gibson 25/Jun AltLd O/S
with Mark Stevenson
Hidden 25/Jun AltLd O/S
David Sherratt 19/Jun Lead
Hidden 06/Jun AltLd O/S
bwestwood 05/Jun AltLd

2nd pitch

with pete sargeant
pie_eater_pete 05/Jun -
andyjirvin 23/May AltLd O/S

Great route. I led the delicate traverse (final) pitch, which I thought was excellent, but also really enjoyed the undercut traverse of the previous pitch.

the power 18/Apr 2nd

Did a lot of fuckin and blinding at andy on this one as I was shiting myself climbing was mega once I'd settled me ass down

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 18/Apr Lead β

Love it, nice tor of the tor

with phill ukc
Hidden ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
AlexRenshaw 28/Sep/14 Lead
with Ted Lister
WillDoyle 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S

First pitch up to Perseus belay.

Hidden 03/Sep/14 2nd O/S
david morse 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Did a variant on first pitch. Traversed out of the bottom of the cave, a few metres below where we should have been. Lots of chalk led the way bizarrely. Did the crux groove of lyme crime to get back on route. I thought it was strange some of the footholds were crumbling away on such a classic...

markalmack 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Dave sent me along the wrong break out of the cave. Traversed too low and up the lyme cryme crux. Still well good

Hidden 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Dave Almond 31/Aug/14 2nd

Once Dave found the route it was good.

with Vun, Dave Garry
ChrisBrooke 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Really enjoyed this. Each section had lovely thoughtful, delicate and committing climbing. Some great exposure, surprising pockets, intricate sequences and overall loveliness.

with Gary Kitchen
Hidden 18/Aug/14 AltLd
Brannock 16/Aug/14 AltLd rpt

P1, great, apart from the lot thrown off the top of the crag.

Martin Haworth 16/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
ldadams ?/Aug/14 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 -
dr_botnik 08/Jul/14 2nd dnf

Did first traverse fine, then it started to rain. Torrential. Had to ab, will be back.

with Andy
benw681 ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Lewis
Hidden 23/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/14 AltLd O/S
ashtond6 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Led P1, P2

Hidden 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 12/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Really cold - couldn't feel my feet the whole way. Went too high across Darius, should have traversed under the extended peg but went over - maybe 5c this way. Unfortunately had to leave after this as Bubbles felt like he may shit himself. High Tor is flippin ace.

with Bubbles
Misha 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

A great choice for the first trad route of the year. Not hard for the grade but a couple of tricky sections above / across from gear to get the trad head back in gear. An intricate line which is fairly obvious most of the way but I went too high up the groove of Lyme Crime and had to reverse it for a few metres to get onto the finishing rising traverse on P1. Started up the F6b approach pitch and abbed off the Original Route belay. Led all the way - James did very well to second it clean.

with James
Hidden 29/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
tatz45 29/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch, bloody good!

mike mo ??/2014 -
simon1965 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Wanted to do this for a while. First E2 of the year. Thought second pitch was hardest.

with dom
gripped01 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Finished up Darius 2nd pitch. Brilliant apart from one or 2 bits of polish

with Dave Tait
jon_gill1 07/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

An absolutely stunning route, one of my favorite routes to date. I led the first pitch with the amazing exposure and quite nervy crux on the pocketed wall and Chris did the second pitch which was beautiful climbing and as it happens his first E2 lead, lucky bugger!

with chris Lyness
alasdair19 ?/Aug/13 AltLd

very satisfied as far from convinced I could climb it. dans confidence was helpful. we climbed the middle of three breaks. dan tried the lower on a previous occasion and found it very hard/scary.

cobweb 21/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
with Roger Waterworth
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Owen W-G 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

P2, really nice moves, bold but not too bold in superb positions. Nic belayed too high up (on Lyme cream?) and I had to do tensioned traverse to get across to Debauchary stance

with Nic
GuyVG 26/May/13 AltLd β

P1, steady and amazing, good to feel progression as when I seconded it 4 years ago it felt "very hard"

with oli
nickdonohue 26/May/13 AltLd
with Ian Bryant
Luke Brooks 05/Mar/13 AltLd
with Barni
Nick Sillem ??/2013 -
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 10/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2. Nice moves and exposure.

Olli-C 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Lead first pitch, had some route finding trouble on leaving Lyme Crime, went a bit too high at first before reversing, think I still found the wrong sequence. Other than going wrong I didn't notice any particularly hard moves. 2nd pitch had a few tricky moves too.

esther ?/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
malteserEd 15/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 06/Jun/12 AltLd dog
mark20 16/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2

Hidden 16/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
neilh ??/2012 -
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
cobweb 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S

fab route, i thought even grade throuhout. did it in 6 pitches , better for communication .

with martyn hopson
catblack 28/Aug/11 2nd

numb fingers and toes on first pitch so pulled on gear (that was my excuse)! 2nd pitch is nicer

Andrew Barker 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 20/Aug/11 AltLd rpt
with Esther Bott
Hidden 19/Aug/11 AltLd
Brannock 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Bit disjointed but some great moves, first E2:)

LisaA 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S

This climb embodies everything that is great about peak limestone: intimidating, scenic and challenging. Had to backtrack slightly after a wrong turning after the belay cave, but otherwise routefinding ok. Overall a fantastic experience! Lead in 3 pitches

with Andy
bigdrew 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Followed Ian up Lyme Cryme to start, then led both pitches of this. Finished up original route.

Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Felt like bloody hard work. Coming out of the cave was tough (bunched if you're tall) and the whole route feels very sustained. Feet are still sore. Bonza lead by Si in blistering heat. Dehydrated by the time we'd ab'd off.

with Si 2
Andrew Sloan 21/May/11 AltLd O/S

Led up to cave. Seconded 5c pitch.....pretty scarey on the traverse, 5c move very delicate. Led final 5b pitch; initial slab delicate and runout. Fantastic route, better tham Debauchery.

Martin Haworth 21/May/11 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route. P1.

with Andy
nai 17/Aug/10 2nd
Si dH 07/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
pabbage 28/Jun/10 2nd
mattyork2 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
thomasadixon 23/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Best route I've done in ages. Good first pitch, awesome second (my lead).

with Malcolm
greenclimb 17/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Sarah
Dave Turnbull, BMC 21/Mar/10 AltLd
alaan ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Mat
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
UKC Logbooks 16/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Harry Hotshot
middlevern 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Blood
GuyVG 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch, found the 1st pitch crux very hard

with Al Mason
Alex Mason 01/Jul/09 Lead rpt

Led 1st pitch, cruised it, lovely route, really hot day.

with Guy VG
Hidden 25/Jun/09 AltLd
nige pacer 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
cem 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led p1

Brown 18/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Hidden 12/Oct/08 AltLd
Hidden 16/Sep/08 AltLd
Somerset swede basher 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Martin Cleaver
IanJackson 03/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Really amazing route. Gives you a good feel for the cliff and will no doute fire your obsession with the rock and the place!

with Luke Hunt
lukehunt ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Ian Jackson
timbanton ??/2008 -
AntiGrav ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Brian Rodgers 06/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Finished up original route, then topped out up and left of the bolts.

philhilo 06/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Toby Dunn 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
tom.e 17/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch

with Pete, Chris Wall
Rjukan 15/Apr/07 2nd
with Pete
Hidden ??/2007 -
Stig 21/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Jonathan Teale
Hidden 29/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/May/06 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
Alex Mason ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S

best route of the year led 2nd pitch leaving the ledge with about 6m lateral run out felt amazing!

Ben1983 ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead O/S

5c pitch - me delicate 5b pitch - al

with Alex Mason
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -

Isn't this E4 6a or am I getting mixed up?

Hidden 04/Sep/02 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S

Great route. Can be unnerving for the second.

with Martin Peters
nickdonohue ?/Jul/01 Lead
with Lee Corbett
William Robertson ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Emily
tuftynick ??/2001 -
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
Hidden 11/Jul/00 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/00 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/00 2nd
jamiev ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Adrian Berry
Steve Bell ??/2000 -
Dave Bond ??/2000 AltLd
with Simon Wren
peterbeaumont ??/2000 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/2000 -
WB ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with Julian
Stoney Boy 22/Sep/98 Lead O/S

Pitch 2

with Neil McCallum
Hidden 19/Jun/98 Lead
Billg ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Phil McAllistair
Roget 20/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with jon
mikedelderfield 15/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove 20/Sep/95 AltLd
with David
AlexRenshaw 27/Nov/94 Lead
with Ted Lister
Hidden ??/1994 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/93 Lead
leathers 17/Feb/93 2nd O/S
with Martin Vimpany
rob.grafton 28/Sep/92 AltLd
with Bruce
Hidden 06/Aug/92 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/91 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
tapley 24/Jul/89 2nd
with Phil Jarvis
Hidden 22/May/89 AltLd O/S
Neil R 22/Apr/89 2nd
with Richard W
Hidden 29/Jan/89 AltLd
Rich Kirby ??/1989 AltLd O/S
Nevil ??/1988 -

Do not know year

with Mike
Hidden ??/1988 -
GordonHart ??/1987 AltLd O/S
with James Taveran
keefe 26/Jun/86 -
with Johnny Adams
shark 17/May/86 AltLd
with Phill Dickens
Derek Furze ??/1986 -
climbhigher0 ??/1986 2nd dog

With ? from BeckMeadow. Lovely route.

Hidden 24/Jun/85 Lead
sadams 15/Jun/85 AltLd
with Kevin Edwards
AlexRenshaw 28/Apr/85 Lead
shark 25/Feb/85 AltLd O/S
with Richard O Mara
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden 07/Oct/84 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jul/84 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/84 Lead
uphillnow ??/1984 Lead

First time was I think with Andrew Horn and second time with Kate Harper(1986?)

with Andrew (Pog) Horn
Andy Stephenson 23/Sep/83 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd and 4th pitches

Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
andybirtwistle 29/May/82 2nd
with Ian Kyle
Hidden 09/May/82 AltLd
charlesmfrench 09/May/82 Lead O/S
with Ian Milne
mark-abz 25/Apr/82 Lead O/S
with Andy W
Nic Robinson 16/Aug/81 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 20/Jun/81 AltLd dnf

Rained hard so abseiled off after P2.

Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
with Derek Hersey
Hidden ??/1981 -
Chris Terrey ??/1981 2nd
with Mike Morrison
ian caton ??/1980 AltLd
with steve scott
Chris Craggs ??/1980 AltLd
with Dave Hobbs
robinsi197 ??/1980 AltLd
with Barbara
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/79 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Mar/79 AltLd O/S
D Tempest ?/Jan/78 -
Mark Kemball 22/Oct/77 Lead
with George Mumford
Hidden ?/Sep/76 AltLd
Falko 04/May/75 AltLd O/S
with Peter Brashaw
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 47
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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