Derbyshire > High Tor >
Robert Brown** E3 5c

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<< Harvey Wallbanger
Ariadne's Thread >>
52m, 2 pitches. An excellent, direct line up the cliff with just one difficult section on the first pitch. Start left of Darius, below a slightly less prominent groove. 1) 5c, 32m. Climb the groove to a ledge below the bulge (pegs, new and old - possibly loose). Step left then make a committing pull over the bulge, rightwards onto the face. It starts getting scary if you go up too far left here. Climb the crack above to arrive at the Debauchery stance. 2) 5b, 20m. Climb the crack at the left-hand end of the ledge leading to a peg at an overlap. Step right below the peg, pull past the overlap and climb a pocketed wall to the upper break. Move left and pull through the bulge on good holds to reach a tree. © ROCKFAX
FA. Arnis Strapcans, Jerry Frost 1974. Named in memory of a friend of the first asensionists who died in a fall at Gogarth.

Ticklists: UK Lonely Leads.

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This climb is in 111 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Rick hard Rock - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/14 with steve_yo

Hidden - Lead - 01/Apr/14

To the top of the first grove took to long didn't se the obvious esey move to the left to Avoid the hard move up the crack Shudan wuda cuda Ill be back
Andy Peak 1 - Lead dnf - 2014 with Rob stokes

harvie - Lead O/S - 2014

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Oct/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/13

A great route, would be 3 stars anywhere else. Going through the roof was fine but turned out that moving right into the crack was pretty spicy as well. After that it's an enjoyable 5a/b romp to the top. Led in a single pitch. Really hot on a still blue sky day. Loads of people on the crag, including the mayor of Matlock doing Debauchery as publicity for Derby MRT!
Misha - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Ed

morganator - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Neil McAdie, Sophie Whyte

In a mega pitch
soph - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Neil McAdie, jon morgan

Took a while to figure out the moves under the roof.
eduardo - 2nd dog - 22/Sep/13 with Misha

Led p1. Just the right balance of difficulty and spice, very enjoyable.
AJM - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Tom Lambert

Andy led crux, I led top E1 pitch.
Tubs - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with AJM

Both pitches. Beta for the crux and some gear in from Simon's route to the left. Good effort to those reading the crux onsight, blind as!
GuyVG - Lead β - 02/Jun/13 with Shark

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13

Led P1. Good, enjoyable climbing. The crux just requires a cool head and faith that better holds will be coming (at some point).
robin_hackney - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Si

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/13

1st p
Hannes B - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Phil

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13

Led 2nd pitch - did Fantasia finish by mistake
shark - AltLd - 29/Sep/12 with Wil Treasure

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12

Awesome route. Led both pitches. Thought the block was solid enough but its still fairly run-out and scary moving above it. Took quite a while to commit.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Andy

Pete Graham - AltLd - 10/Jun/12 with Howard Lawledge

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 24/May/12 with julie carroll, helen gibson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

JRae - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Liam P

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12

The Grist - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Lee Hamilton

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/11

lead 2nd pitch
tuftynick - AltLd - 28/Apr/11 with rich cross

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd - 12/May/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

nickcanute - Lead - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/09

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Dan Wicks

done in one pitch
feilx - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Andy L

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/09

UKC Logbooks - 2nd β - 16/Aug/09 with Harry Hotshot

Took a little while to be certain of route on first pitch. Original top pitch not the rockfax description. f6b+
ian caton - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/08 with Abi

Lead both pitches.
alaan - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08 with Grant

GrantB - 2nd - 28/Jun/08 with Alaan

nige - AltLd - 28/Jun/08 with mark hounslea

Ian Parnell - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/08 with Jon Winter

Will_he_fall - AltLd O/S - 18/May/08 with Aly

Brown - AltLd O/S - 03/May/08 with Henry

Hidden - 2008

Russell Birkett - AltLd O/S - Oct/07 with Tim Whitaker

Brian Rodgers - 2nd - 09/Jun/07 with Neil Hillis

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with dave evans

Hidden - 2007

lead main pitch, did go up to far left, felt like a bold E4 6a
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/06 with Steve Ramsden

I led easier second pitch, though the first seemed easy too.
Ram MkiV - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/06 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 04/Aug/06

Boy - 2006

Bern - 2006

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/05 with Simon Wren

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Aug/03

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/01

nickdonohue - Lead - Aug/01 with Mark G

Hidden - Lead - 01/May/01

Hidden - AltLd - May/01

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - May/01 with Dad

tuftynick - 2001

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

Hidden - Lead - 27/Apr/00

Hidden - 2000

EagerAndy - 2000

Roget - Solo rpt - 28/Aug/99

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/98 with Steven Delderfield

p2 only
chris sm - AltLd O/S - 08/May/98 with Jim Hall

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - May/98 with Bruce woodley

Billg - Lead O/S - 1998 with Phil McAllistair

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jun/97

led 1st pitch
Roget - AltLd rpt - 06/Jul/96 with baccy

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/96 with mik

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/96

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jun/94

rob.grafton - Lead - 30/Mar/93 with barry maybank, Bruce

fell off crux, proper scream
Roget - Lead dog - 18/Jul/92 with jon

whispering nic - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/92 with Graham Iles

keefe - 10/Aug/91

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/91 with Bruce woodley

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jun/91

Hidden - 1990

Pete Ogden - AltLd - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 18/Apr/89

DDDD - 1989

William Robertson - Lead O/S - Sep/88 with Emily

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - Jul/88 with Mick Mason

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Sep/87

Hidden - AltLd - 16/May/87

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd - 1987 with John Adams

keefe - 02/Aug/86 with Johnny Adams

GordonHart - Lead O/S - Aug/86 with James Taveran

one runout
shark - Lead - 23/Jun/86 with Chris

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Apr/86

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 1986

sadams - AltLd - 08/Jun/85 with Kevin Edwards

shark - AltLd O/S - 01/May/85 with Dave Marsh

andy gittins - 1985

Mike Owen - 20/May/84 with John Peake

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Steve Burns

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/82 with Andy W

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 08/May/82 with Ian Milne

Did the norm... went too high on the left and had to jump for a hold on the right. Can't remember any pegs...but it was a long time ago.
Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/81

Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1981 with Derek Hersey

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 24/May/80 with John Jefferies

Chris Craggs - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ashtond6, Owen W-G, Hidden, Hidden, a_radiohead_fan, Hidden

Total votes cast 93
hard E40 of 32
E40 of 32
easy E40 of 32
hard E32 of 32
E323 of 32
easy E37 of 32
hard E20 of 32
E20 of 32
easy E20 of 32
hard 6a0 of 32
6a0 of 32
easy 6a1 of 32
hard 5c1 of 32
5c23 of 32
easy 5c6 of 32
hard 5b1 of 32
5b0 of 32
easy 5b0 of 32
3 Stars11 of 29
2 Stars18 of 29
1 Star0 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 111 (0.9%)
Lead44 of 111 (39.6%)
Followed12 of 111 (10.8%)
Alt Leads39 of 111 (35.1%)
Unknown15 of 111 (13.5%)

'Climbed'51 of 111 (45.9%)
clean O/S52 of 111 (46.8%)
clean β2 of 111 (1.8%)
clean rpt3 of 111 (2.7%)
dogged2 of 111 (1.8%)
dnf1 of 111 (0.9%)