Rockfax Description
A worthy route which deserves more attention and would get three stars on most other cliffs. The upper section feels a little bold but solid gear keeps appearing. Traverse left from the belay beneath Original Route. Move up then step left again to a small overlap - reachy. Alternatively, follow Debauchery a little further then move back right to the overlap. Climb direct from here (crux) to gain a crack. Climb this (peg and threads) to a final awkward section where the crack ends at a hole. Finish direct. A rather serious direct start is possible up the grassy lower slabs at E1 5b - peg runner out right. © Rockfax

FFA. Pete Livesey, Jill Lawrence 1976. Previously aided.

Ticklists: Ultimate E3 ticklist.

phil64 16/May Lead O/S

A fantastic pitch one of the best on the crag at that grade!

with Andy Bowman
Mike_Hayes 15/May Lead rpt
Mark Grist 03/Oct/15 2nd
with Dan Metcalfe
manwithacam 03/Oct/15 Lead

Great route to end a good day on. Lowever traverse definately spicy, great test of reading the rock and working out the problem. Same again for the move from the rest, then gradually eases, but with loads of great climbing above. What a great crag.

with Mark
Hidden 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Duncan Campbell 20/Sep/15 2nd

Nice nowhere desperate but nowhere easy

Brannock 20/Sep/15 Lead

Good, quite hard crux which isint that well protected, enough gear to keep the rest reasonable, great move to get the top break.

Martin Haworth 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
James Oswald 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S


with Malcolm Scott
James Oswald 15/Aug/15 2nd


with Malcolm Scott
malx 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
jshields 29/Apr/15 2nd
with Paul Tretheway
Mike_Hayes 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Mike Lea
Hidden 25/Sep/14 2nd O/S
bigdrew 25/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Followed previously but never led before. More in in-situ threads than I remembered..

with Eve
Hidden 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
nathanlee 02/Jul/14 2nd β
with Dom Lee
dominic lee 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Climbed direct to the overlap. Quite bold.

Apharri 30/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Jim Gayler
Ricky Rocks 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

3 stars in my opinion, great route, nice and long..

philhilo 30/Mar/14 Lead

So annoyed - did the hard traverse in from Original Route, cruised the rest of it and bailed groping around the slopy ledges and grass near the top! Excellent route.

with Helen E
Dave Turnbull, BMC 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Led shortly after holding Greg's exciting 40 footer on Decadence p1.

with Dan Arkle, Greg Cunningham
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
J.Wells 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Ima Nahumury
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead β
markalmack 29/Jun/13 2nd rpt

didn't even realize i had done this before...

Mark Leicester 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Great climbing, suspect rock and bold near start makes it feel quite intense but rest of route is great and has good gear.

with Rob Woon
Si dH 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S

In one pitch

with Andy
Wood for Trees 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

great run out climb, bomber threads. flake on overlap very hollow sounding and not worth putting gear behind.

with Shark
Joughton 22/May/13 Lead O/S

Great route, totally deserves three stars, felt pretty solid at the grade.

Andy Peak 1 28/Feb/13 Lead

Nice long friendly route! Except the very top wich was damp and A bit loose

with dan
Daniel Heath 28/Feb/13 2nd β

Excellent climbing, maintaining interest all the way. 3 stars for me. Solid lead from Andy.

with Andy
Glenn Sutcliffe 05/Sep/12 Lead
with Pete Cresswell
esther ?/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
ojp 31/Mar/12 2nd dnf

Lost chalk bag just before the crux had to down climb off

with Si
Hannes B 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Direct start - very bold and brittle

with Sam H
Mark Grist 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Lee Hamilton
Hidden 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
markalmack 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd
richardr 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Really good and sustained but a little bold towards the top. Ran out of rope to set up the belay, need 60m to belay from the ground.

Speeddemonsi 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 30/Jul/11 2nd rpt
bigdrew 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
steveb2006 09/Jun/11 Lead

Tree now completely gone from O R belay

with David Andrew
tuftynick 28/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd rpt
alaan 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Aly
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Misha 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Good route, lots of 5b moves and some 5c but a rest is never too far away. Thought it was actually less sustained and easier than Darius but the gear is more spaced.

with Tony L
rikbattye 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
CharlieMack 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
alaan 03/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
Rich Kirby 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S

One that got away! Very good.

with Kev
bridget143 19/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Somerset swede basher 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Bridget Hall
Adam Ellwood 30/May/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Evans
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead rpt
DavidEvans 23/May/09 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/08 2nd
Ian Broome 31/May/08 Lead O/S

Easier then darius.

with Al
alaan 03/May/08 2nd O/S
with Matt
mattyork2 03/May/08 Lead O/S
nige 05/Mar/08 2nd
with dave parton
timbanton ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
feilx 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/07 2nd β
Ram MkiV 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with alex b
Russell Birkett ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Tim Whitaker
Brown 10/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Walker
Brian Rodgers 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Neil Hillis
Alex Mason 06/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Really good 3* anywhere else but overshadowed by its neghbours! If high tor were sport this would probably be the best out the 3.

with Vash
v.jester ?/Jun/07 2nd
with alex
Ropeboy 20/May/07 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 -
ellis ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Tom Holdsworth
steveb2006 23/Sep/06 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Dave Bond 25/May/05 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
steveb2006 27/Jul/04 Lead
with Pete Carter
steveb2006 05/Jun/03 Lead
with Roland Smith
jamiev 17/May/02 Lead O/S
with Adrian Berry
tuftynick ??/2001 -
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
steveb2006 10/Jul/98 Lead
with Rob Gambles
Hidden 16/May/98 Lead O/S
steveb2006 14/May/97 Lead

Have done this a few times but this time do a better (proper?) start by traversing right from Unoriginal Route (just below level of peg) to arrive below the Perseus flake - some thin moves

with Rob Gambles
Hidden 05/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 17/Oct/93 2nd O/S
with Bob Marks
Roget 01/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with jon
steveb2006 21/Sep/91 Lead

Using the (easier) Debauchery start. Brian belays only

with Brian Hamilton
Hidden ??/1990 -
DDDD ?/May/89 Lead O/S

Scary first half

William Robertson ?/Sep/88 Lead O/S
with Emily
AlexRenshaw 26/Jun/88 2nd
with Tim Raffle
steveb2006 27/May/88 Lead
with Simon Mee
steveb2006 26/May/87 Lead

Have to belay in the Darius scoop as not much gear left

with Nigel Robinson (Yorkie)
charlesmfrench ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Ian Milne
Hidden ??/1987 AltLd
Derek Furze ??/1986 -
shark 19/Jun/85 Lead O/S
with Dave Marsh
sadams 15/Jun/85 2nd
with Kevin Edwards
Hidden 06/Apr/85 Lead
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Robmwatt ??/1985 Lead
with Gaz Morgan
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
with Jim Rubery
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
deacondeacon, Owen W-G, theomoore, Hidden, ashtond6, Hidden, Hidden
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 37
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set