|Lulworth Cove - Mupe Bay Traverse||VD|
|3 pitches. A 1300m traverse!
The grade refers to the easiest alternative and presupposes ideal conditions: a warm sunny day, calm seas (the difficulty is very dependent on tides and waves) and lots of friends (friends, not Friends). A long, fairly sustained traverse on firm rock all the way: a fine but committing expedition. Start on the eastern side of the mouth of Lulworth cove. The final 200m are only possible within a few hours of low tide but may be avoided. A rope is advised for the vertical finishing pitches.
1.) Diff, Traverse east at sea level. After about 200m the cliff top is clearand escape is easy; this is the fossil forest, an internationally important geological site. Continue below overhamgs for a long way and to a slight bay (beyond are some wide ledges and two hundred yards past these are the pinnacles in the sea which mark Mupe Bay.)
2.) HS 4b (Approx 200m) At low tide continue east, only hard at the start, to the final zawn before Mupe Bay.
3.) Diff (15m) Start beneath a low overhang a short distance from the final zawn. Climb diagonally right and up to a ledge. Continue up the crack above and exit rightwards onto an easy north slanting slab. Follow this past a cave into Mupe Bay.
2a. VD (12m) Start just to the east of the slight bay on pitch 1. Climb the wall just to the left of the nose of the buttress and belay in a corner.
3a. VD (12m) From the corner traverse 10m left and finish straight up on sound rock.
3b. HVS 6a (50m) A contentious grade maybe, but the technical section is not long, and nothing more than deep water awaits a blunder. Hardest at the start. After pitch 2, traverse at low level around into the final zawn and continue around the headland into Mupe Bay. |
Photo: Warning Board on the headland of Mupe Bay - After the Finish! © purple sue Sophie Nunn - Solo - 21/Jul/13 sarpedon - Solo - 21/Jul/13 Hidden - Solo O/S - 21/Jul/13 Rupey - Solo - 21/Jul/12 with alan One hard section passing a 15m cave en-route, classic journey, take lots of water with 6a DWS finish RichardMc - Solo - 1990 Nigel Coe - Solo - 20/Jun/81 with Pat Stanley, Steve Portnoi, Jackie Coe
Sophie Nunn - Solo - 21/Jul/13
sarpedon - Solo - 21/Jul/13
Hidden - Solo O/S - 21/Jul/13
Rupey - Solo - 21/Jul/12 with alan
One hard section passing a 15m cave en-route, classic journey, take lots of water
with 6a DWS finish
RichardMc - Solo - 1990
Nigel Coe - Solo - 20/Jun/81 with Pat Stanley, Steve Portnoi, Jackie Coe